1996-itis, my ass. This bottle had every excuse to show premature oxidation: there was seepage under the capsule, and that familiar aroma of heavily oxidised wine filled the room as soon as I stripped off the capsule. The cork showed clear signs of having leaked. But I rinsed the bottle off, and the wine itself shows no signs of premature oxidation. other than perhaps somewhat premature maturity. This bottle may be peaking.
Lovely wine. Full bodied with just enough acid to maintain that light-on-its-feet mouthfeel. Flavors of lemon and minerals. Glad I have more.