We went to a gathering of the local chapter of the German Wine Society, hosted by the Weiss' and led by the ever affable, David Bueker. It was a truly educational and fun night, filled with the expected pun-ditry. The flights were arranged and entitled by David.
Flight 1 : Halfway There
2004 Schafer-Frohlich Riesling QbA Halbtrocken (aka Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Kabinett) (Nahe) #19 05
Nice pear and mineral with super citrus flavors. A bit harsh in acidity.
2004 Lingenfelder Grosskarlbacher Burgweg Scheurebe Kabinett Halbtrocken (Pfalz) #14 05
Who snuck in this scheurebe? I'm glad it was here as I had never tried this varietal before. Very ripe fruit, cut grass, with more rs than I expected from a halbtrocken. Very beautiful at first taste but flabby when revisited.
2004 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken (Mosel) #06 05
My favorite of the flight. Solid minerality, light citrus, and nice balance.
Flight 2: Which one’s the real kabinett?
David says that two of these wines are of spatlese levels and only one is truly kabinett. We did some guessing.
2004 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberger Riesling Kabinett (Ruwer) #07 05
Creamy apple flavors with moderate acidity. I thought this was the true kabinett (It’s the Kesselstat).
2004 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Josephshofer Riesling Kabinett (Mosel) #25 05
My favorite of the flight and tied for my WOTN. Lill likes it too. Soft whiff of petrol, bigger, sweeter, with a lengthy red grapefruit finish. This is very unique.
2004 Josef Leitz Rudesheimer Klosterlay Riesling Kabinett (Rheingau) #05 05
Simple but good. Great finish. One of Lill’s faves.
Flight 3: Get Vertical (all with synthetic corks)
2002 J. J. Christoffel Urzinger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (Mosel)
No nose at first, then some oddity in the aroma. Big fruit but the finish isn’t quite right. Bad bottle? Bad fake cork?
2003 J. J. Christoffel Urzinger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (Mosel)
Some petrol, huge flavor fruit makes this so easy to drink. If it had a bit more acidity it would be marvelous. As is, it’s very good.
2004 J. J. Christoffel Urzinger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett (Mosel)
Favorite of the flight and tied for my (and Lill’s) WOTN. Rich apple nose, much more vibrant than the ’03, and a super pineapple finish. Damn good stuff.
Flight 4: Get Horizontal
1997 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett (Mosel) #08 98
Lots of petrol, big apple flavors, with some citrus. There was considerable talk about this flight regarding whether these wines are over the hill or are they just not mature yet. I didn’t sense the fruit completely fading and I didn’t feel that creamy midpalate either. It seems like these wines are in limbo and really haven’t matured as much as one would think for a 9 year old kabinett.
1997 J. J. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel) #20 98
Serious brimstone alert! A whole lotta shakin going on, and swirling, and cup to cup aeration helped the sulfur subside slightly after 15 minutes or so. I still couldn’t get past the sulfur to taste anything.
1997 Dönnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett (Nahe)
Petrol nose with tons of fruit flavor and good acidity but there was no developed complexity.