Last Fall, we had the distinct pleasure of touring Niagara wine country with Howie Hart as part of a trip to see Niagara Falls. During our time together, Howie very kindly gave me some bottles of his wine to try. Tonight, with a dinner of homemade pasta with a sauce of onions, orange pepper, smoked andouille and San Marzano tomato, I opened a bottle of 2012 Pinot Gris. I was greeted with a wine with a distinct copper color, verging into the pink. It was a bit reticent in the nose, but with warming had a light bouquet of strawberries and stones. It also bore some resemblance to a good, dry rosé on palate, with crisp acidity, medium body and texture that, like the color, indicated some time spent in contact with the skins. Of all of the expressions of Pinot Gris/Grigio that I've had, it reminded me the most of Livio Felluga's from Friuli, though it had a touch more "orange wine" character than that. It went fabulously with the pasta and sauce. Great job, Howie!
Mark Lipton