The disappointing news, for me, that Michel Rolland has been appointed consultant at Château Figeac, up to now one of the top standard bearers of the traditionally harmonious style of St.Émilion, reminds me that I saw an article by Franck Dubourdieu, the brother of Denis, which was very critical of the new classification and particularly of its favouring the “modern” spoofulated style in its promotion choices. He goes on to give a list of St.Émilion châteaux, which in his view still uphold Bordelais honour.
Here, for those who can read French, is a link to the whole article
http://www.franckdubourdieu.com/pdf/244.pdf . I regret that, not being a professional translator, it would take me an enormous amount of time to do a proper translation job of the whole article, but here is my attempt at translating the passage of interest which mostly consists of names. (Those who scroll down though this newsletter will also discover very comprehensive vertical tasting notes on Ducru-Beaucaillou and a brief impression of the 2012 vintage.)
The following list gives the wine lover an idea of which estates in the new classification want to make terroir wines which are authentic and capable of harmonious ageing. Recent tastings which have given rise to this compilation covered the vintages 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2005 and much further back in some cases. This list makes no presumptions about more recent vintages (2010, 2011) since an owner can at any time change direction, consultant and deviate from his original intentions.
(La liste ci-après donne à l’amateur une idée des crus du nouveau classement qui ont la volonté d’élaborer un vin de terroir, authentique, apte à un vieillissement harmonieux. Les dégustations récentes qui ont présidé à ce recueil ont porté sur les millésimes 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2005 ou beaucoup plus loin pour certains. Cette liste ne présume pas des millésimes récents (2010, 2011) car, à tout moment un propriétaire, peut changer de cap, de consultant, et dévier de son projet initial.)
*PREMIERS GRANDS CRUS CLASSES
Château Cheval Blanc (A)
Château Canon (B)
Château Beau-Séjour-Bécot (B)
Château Bélair-Monange (B)
Château Figeac (B)
Clos Fourtet (B)
Château La Gaffelière (B)
Château Trottevieille (B)
*GRANDS CRUS CLASSES
Château Balestard la Tonnelle
Château Berliquet
Château Cadet-Bon
Château Capdemourlin
Château Chauvin
Clos des Jacobins
Château Corbin
Château Couvent des Jacobins
Château Côte de Baleau
Château Dassault
Château de Ferrand
Château de Pressac
Faurie de Souchard
Château Fonroque
Château Grand Corbin-Despagne
Château Grand Mayne
Château Grand-Pontet
Château Guadet
Château Haut-Sarpe
Château la Clotte
Château la Marzelle
Château la Serre
Château Laniote
Château Laroque
Château Laroze
Château les Grandes Murailles
Château Moulin du Cadet
Petit Faurie de Soutard
Château Ripeau
Château Saint-Georges-Côte-Pavie
Clos Saint-Martin
Château Tertre Daugay
Château Villemaurine
Château Yon-FigeacNo one’s list can please everybody so there will clearly be dissent about several estates’ presence or absence here but the most glaring omission from the above list is Château Ausone. The last vintage of this which I have tasted was 1959 (superb) at a millennium tasting, so I have no currently relevant tasting input to make here.
Any views?
Last edited by Tim York on Thu Apr 04, 2013 2:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.