One of the loveliest things about Grüner is its ability to be perfectly satisfying and delightful when young yet continue to develop---for thirty or more years!---and show constantly different facets as it ages, much like the fabled white Burgundies. Indeed, some experts stoutly maintain that the older a Grüner gets, the more it tastes like a Montrachet or Meursault.
The Hirtzberger Honivogl is poised in that long, slow transition from brilliant freshness to mature development; it retains the original acidity-driven intensity of a handful of fresh crushed green herbs mingled with citrus, but its 12 years of cellaring has developed a whisper of saline mingling with celery seed, a brisk snap of freshly ground white pepper, and a surprising appearance of…white peaches. Age has also altered the texture of the Honivogl from its original crisp and edgy bite to a softer, silkier mouth-coating richness.
Brash and aggressively charming when young; demure and discreetly charming when mature---what more could you ask of a wine?
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