WTN: Donedei, Guigal, Kiona

[Jenise]

Several wines from yesterday's non-wine geek Superbowl party:

2004 Donedei Merlot, Columbia Valley, Washington
Enjoyed this wine in the past but had not opened a bottle in years. It did not reward holding (sigh). Although it tastes better than it smells with fruit and some tannins yet evident, the decaying, necrotic nose ruins the experience. Below average for a $35+ WA merlot only eight years out.

2002 Kiona Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington
Although '2002' in Washington and the word 'Reserve' would entitle one to expect a wine with more weight, this medium bodied Cabernet shown brightly in comparison to the rest, all of which were younger and less ambitious. Bright cassis and black cherry fruit with balanced acid and tannins and just a bit of espresso on the finish, it was quite tasty. Probably nearing peak but should hold here for some time. A recent acquisition; not sorry to have two more.

2003 Guigal Crozes Hermitage
After everyone else left the host pulled this wine. It was served to me blind, but I knew two things: this guy loves California pinot above all else, and from way across the room I could see a pinot-shaped bottle. So I kept trying to fit the square peg into the round hole: who makes a Cali pinot with a skunky Heinekin nose, tar and green olives? That it turned out to be C-H and from a Californicated vintage at that made perfect sense--once I knew what it was; I'll admit to not guessing it. Very good now, but fading a bit on the palate--no rush but I'd put these in the drinking queue if I had them.

[David M. Bueker]

2003 Guigal Crozes Hermitage
After everyone else left the host pulled this wine. It was served to me blind, but I knew two things: this guy loves California pinot above all else, and from way across the room I could see a pinot-shaped bottle. So I kept trying to fit the square peg into the round hole: who makes a Cali pinot with a skunky Heinekin nose, tar and green olives? That it turned out to be C-H and from a Californicated vintage at that made perfect sense--once I knew what it was; I'll admit to not guessing it. Very good now, but fading a bit on the palate--no rush but I'd put these in the drinking queue if I had them.

jenise - I am struggling with the two bits I underlined in your note.

[Jenise]

2003 Guigal Crozes Hermitage
After everyone else left the host pulled this wine. It was served to me blind, but I knew two things: this guy loves California pinot above all else, and from way across the room I could see a pinot-shaped bottle. So I kept trying to fit the square peg into the round hole: who makes a Cali pinot with a skunky Heinekin nose, tar and green olives? That it turned out to be C-H and from a Californicated vintage at that made perfect sense--once I knew what it was; I'll admit to not guessing it. Very good now, but fading a bit on the palate--no rush but I'd put these in the drinking queue if I had them.

jenise - I am struggling with the two bits I underlined in your note.

Okay, I hear you. You have to like that, and I do. But it's not particular to this one wine, I've run into that in many C-H's I've had, like Jaboulet's Thalabert.

[John S]

Kiona is always a frustrating wine producer for me. They have an amazing location on Red Mountain with old vines everywhere. They SHOULD be making outstanding wines there - they have incredible material. They sell some of their grapes, and most people make better wine then they do! I appreciate that they don't follow the 'bigger is better' rule that many fall into, and I love they hold their wines back (last year the 2003 cabernet was the most recent release). They are following their own path, and these sorts of wineries should be congratulated and supported. And their pricing is very reasonable too. But when their wines are so middle of the road in terms of quality - their cabernets are the best of the bunch, I think - it's hard for me not to get frustrated. I want to like them more than I do...

But it sounds like this Reserve Cab was one of their better efforts (it usually is when I've tasted it), and I'm glad to hear you liked it.

[David M. Bueker]

I hand carried two bottles of 1996 Kiona Cabernet home from a trip to Washington many years ago. They were lovely, and the secodn bottle stood up well to several years of being "lost" in the cellar. Still there is no way they would win big in a blind tasting!

[Jenise]

John and David, I picked up these Kionas second hand last year for about $20 each, and in particular at that price I have zero complaints. But I know what John means: at least in the length of time I've lived here they have been more about being great wine for the buck than great wine, period. Yet that obviously hasn't always been the case: we have a friend who inherited a cellar from his father and he periodically shows up with 20-30 year old bottles of Washington wine. One of the most memorable was an old Kiona cabernet, which is what made me push the button on these 02 Reserves. Speaking of old vines, they had spectacular old cab franc vineyards, among the oldest in the state. Not sure how much they hung on to but a winemaker friend of mine was frustrated to lose them as his source a few years back because they had decided to rip out those vines to make room for...you'll never guess. Dolcetto.

ARGH.

[Scott Kipping]

When I was at a private tasting at the Vancouver wine fest in 1998. The winemaker from Kiona walked in with a couple of bottles of 1996 Cab Reserve. They were popped and poured. Wow were they tannic, but savoury. with a great finish. So when we visit there recently I too always come away wanting for more from such a great location. Nice tasting room. Maybe they are too interested in Lemberger and Dolcetto. There pricing is decent and I'm with John, they should be applauded for doing what they want, not what people expect.

[Jenise]

Kipper, the Festival's going on right now, isn't it? You attending?