I'm with Dale. First thing that came to my mind with this was an off-dry prosecco.
Letterman asked Zevon if his condition had taught him anything about life and death. ''How much you're supposed to enjoy every sandwich,'' Zevon answered. (From a 2003 NYTimes article on Zevon by Jon Pareles.)
For what it's worth, I opened the thread with interest because we were going to have smoked salmon (no horseradish of any kind however) for dinner tonight and I had been planning to serve it with a white Burgundy (Pernand-Vergelesses).
But, our dinner plans changed so it doesn't matter any more as there is no salmon on the agenda and the wine will be a Northern Rhone syrah.