Hi Guys,
I've been toying with the idea of having a Kosher food review website which would incorporate Restaurants, Food and Wine from a UK perspective. This is my first review of a wine. It is written for people not necessarily into the finer elements of wine an in-keeping with the goals of the site, focuses mainly on what kind of value for money does it offer. Please read it if you have the time and I'd love some feedback. (£1 = $1.6)
Dalton Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
If you are reading this wine review then you probably empathize with the lonely existence of a kosher wine enthusiast. Being surrounded by philistines who torture Shabbos guests week in, week out with subpar cooked acidic concoctions is quite frankly enough to turn anyone to drink. Having said that, there are some compelling reasons why kosher wine doesn’t seem to matter to most Jews that I know who keep the faith – the price tag being the most likely cause. Since the exuberant prices of Kosher food is one of the reasons I decided to start this website, one of the main areas of summation will be whether or not this wine is worth the money the retailer is charging. Simply put, taste and quality in the kosher world must be assessed within context of price.
The Dalton winery was founded by the Harouni family (from England!) and in a matter of two decades have risen to be a popular brand found on pretty much very shelf of every kosher store.
The Dalton Reserve range is a 2nd tier wine, one below their flagship wine - the Matatia. The wine is oak-aged for a good 15 months and uses grapes grown in the Upper Galilee at a height of 850 meters. The 15 months in oak should impart enough elements to allow this bottle to be aged and I have seen various wine connoisseurs recommend cellaring up until 2014/15.
The bottle retails at a weighty £28 per bottle. This puts it in the higher price bracket of mid-range wines with anything over £40 considered in my eyes to be a top end wine (for special occasions etc.) My local wine shop (Sussers) had a special on this pre-Rosh Hashanah and I picked up two bottles for £20 a piece.
To confess, I’ve probably drunk more of this wine than any other wine on the market. When we used to host a full table every Shabbat, this was the wine of choice – I loved it, the guests loved it … the wife couldn’t stand the sight of it! Being oak-aged and locked up since 2009 means you should pre-empt the consumption and air this baby right before Kiddush and dive in right about the time that the main course arrives (around 45 minutes to an hour for the Yekers amongst you).
The wine itself is a real treat. It possesses a lovely aroma that emanates from an almost opaque deep purple colour. I wont embarrass myself by trying to detail what scent/taste notes I was getting but rest assured it gets the thumbs up. Most importantly, I found this wine incredibly easy to guzzle down, it’s so moreish that I now understand why I rarely threw any of it away come Motzei Shabbat. Furthermore, it lacks any of the offensiveness that sometime accompanies even some of the finest of kosher wines. The one criticism I would have is that it clearly lacks the depth I have experience in some more expensive wines such as the Capcanes La Flor del Flor de Primavera 2007 or the Segals Unfiltered Cabarnet 2007 (both £40+ bottles) but perhaps it would be unfair to compare it to any flagship wines. This is what you should expect from a mid-range wine – complete drinkability whilst not paying the earth.
Israel’s foremost wine critic - the revered and unfortunately deceased Daniel Rogov, gave the Dalton winery a 4/5 star rating (5 stars being a winery that delivers consistently good wine both across range and vintages). When I mentioned this to Dalton’s representative at Kedem Europe’s wine tasting, he was adamant that had Rogov lived longer then his winery would have been given 5 stars in the next edition of his comprehensive guide. Based on what I have experienced with the Dalton range (Alma, D-Shiraz, D-Cabernet and Cabernet Reserve), I have to agree although until I’ve devoured a bottle of Matatia, we’ll have to leave this dilemma unresolved.
Ok, lets talk about price. The £28 price tag is in my mind slightly above what it should be. The reason for this is that there are some astounding wines that one can purchase for only £2-3 more – Yatir’s 2nd tier Merlot/Shiraz/Cabernet 2007 blend immediately springs to mind as being a superior wine that has much more complexity and taste although it doesn’t go down as easy as the Dalton (but that’s probably a good thing!). Another recommendation in this price bracket would be Castel’s 2nd tier Bordeaux blend – Petit Castel. Both these wines retail around the £30 mark and would probably elicit a better wine tasting experience for that kind of money than the Dalton Reserve. I actually found this on special prior to Rosh Hashanah at £20 per bottle (a steal at this price) and this might be the way to go with such a wine.
Having said that, were you to have a table full of guests that weren’t wine drinkers, the Dalton Reserve Cabarnet Sauvignon 2009 is a great wine to serve. Even the most untrained palate would be able to appreciate the quality of this wine and presenting this to your guests right after the soup leaves the table would definitely enhance your Shabbos table.
