WTN: Champagne, Savennieres, and geeky grapes

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WTN: Champagne, Savennieres, and geeky grapes

Postby Andrew Bair » Wed Oct 03, 2012 10:02 pm

2011 Domaine Comte Abbatucci Ajaccio Rosé “Faustine”
Blend of Sciacarello, Barbarossa, and Vermentino. Medium-bodied, softer, elegant, well balanced, with good acidity. Somewhat melony/mineral, with mostly red berry notes. Very good.

2006 Jean Lallement et Fils Brut Millésimé Grand Cru Verzenay
80% Pinot Noir/20% Chardonnay; disgorged April 22, 2011. Good mousse with larger than average bubbles. Nose is bursting at the seams with mixed flowers, peaches, pears, and pink peppercorns. Full-bodied, very fresh, dry, rich, firm, vinous; well balanced, with bright acidity. Tastes of baked pears, pineapples, blueberries, pecans, and toasted Italian bread, with earthy/mineral/spicy notes. A few hours later, the palate has become more intensely mineral, and quite meaty, with notes of bacon fat. Excellent+; I’m sure that this will be absolutely incredible in a decade or two, but it is very difficult to resist now.

2005 Clos Centeilles Minervois “Le C de Centeilles”
According to the producer’s current website, this is a blend of 78% Picpoul Noir, 15% Riveirenc (Aspiran) Noir; 5% Morastel Noir à Jus Blanc (possibly Graciano?), and 2% Œillade (NOT the same as Cinsault, but a distinct variety). All of these are grapes that were common in the Languedoc before phylloxera arrived. [Interestingly, this information conflicts with my first note on this wine from five years ago, where I had it as 90% Picpoul Noir and 10% Riveirenc Noir.]
Medium ruby color, with some brown on the rim. Spicy/lightly earthy nose. Medium-bodied, elegant, well balanced, with moderate acidity; the tannins have mostly integrated by now, where they were rather sharp five years ago. Tastes of blackberries, cherries, black pepper, and some tar. Very good.

2004 Pierre Gimmonet et Fils Brut Millésimé 1er Cru Spécial Club
100% Chardonnay, actually 88% Grand Cru: 60% from Cramant (Grand Cru), 28% Chouilly (Grand Cru), and 12% Cuis (1er Cru). Disgorged November 28, 2010.
Good mousse/very small bubbles. Nose of fruit cocktail, smoke, and ground black pepper. Medium-bodied, dry, crisp, well balanced, with good underlying acidity. Mineral-driven, with green apple, Bartlett pear, yeast, and somewhat saline notes; peppery finish. Excellent, but not quite as good as the Lallement.

2002 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon
Floral/tropical fruit/beeswax nose, with a bit of smoke. Full-bodied, bone dry, intense, nicely balanced/structured, with nervy acidity; more chewy than oily. Very mineral, with notes of white peaches, honey, cashews, and anise. No signs of premature oxidation here, which I was concerned about. A couple of days later, this is more appley/smoky/oily, and less sharply mineral. Excellent; I could have easily held onto this for several more years.
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Re: WTN: Champagne, Savennieres, and geeky grapes

Postby Matt Richman » Thu Oct 04, 2012 3:00 am

Is there a history of premox in Savennieres?
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Re: WTN: Champagne, Savennieres, and geeky grapes

Postby Tim York » Thu Oct 04, 2012 6:21 am

Matt Richman wrote:Is there a history of premox in Savennieres?


When is "ox" "prem"? Old style Savennières often used to become quite oxidised with some age. I had a whole lot of Château d'Epiré from 1995 and 1996. There was bottle variation but most of the bottles of the basic cuvée became slightly or more oxidised after 8-10 years; most bottles of the Cuvée Spéciale 1995 became oxidised a bit more slowly but the 1996s have proved mostly much fresher. Some people claim that older Savennières should taste like this but I much prefer it like Andrew's Baumard Clos du Papillon 02 and mine from Domaine du Closel.

BTW those Epirés proved a maddening purchase. There were very few out of over 3 dozen bottles, except the 96 Spéciales, which have shown any light between being closed and being oxidised :evil: .
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Re: WTN: Champagne, Savennieres, and geeky grapes

Postby Andrew Bair » Fri Oct 05, 2012 7:56 pm

Tim York wrote:
Matt Richman wrote:Is there a history of premox in Savennieres?


When is "ox" "prem"? Old style Savennières often used to become quite oxidised with some age. I had a whole lot of Château d'Epiré from 1995 and 1996. There was bottle variation but most of the bottles of the basic cuvée became slightly or more oxidised after 8-10 years; most bottles of the Cuvée Spéciale 1995 became oxidised a bit more slowly but the 1996s have proved mostly much fresher. Some people claim that older Savennières should taste like this but I much prefer it like Andrew's Baumard Clos du Papillon 02 and mine from Domaine du Closel.

BTW those Epirés proved a maddening purchase. There were very few out of over 3 dozen bottles, except the 96 Spéciales, which have shown any light between being closed and being oxidised :evil: .


Tim and Matt -

I have actually read some recent notes for the 02 Baumaurd Clos du Papillon where other people said that it had become quite oxidized; thus my concern there.
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Re: WTN: Champagne, Savennieres, and geeky grapes

Postby Dale Williams » Fri Oct 05, 2012 8:46 pm

There are definitely plenty of reports of premoxed Savennieres in the 1996-2002 period (especially Baumard). I've had bottles of 96, 97, and 02 Baumard with heavy oxidation, as well as 2002 Closel Papillon. But I've also had beautiful fresh 1996 Baumard and 2002 Closel, just as with white Burg it seems problematic but random.
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