WTN: Two QPR candidates from Portugal.

[Tim York]

These two wine are recommendations of Éric Boschmann, a popular French language Belgian wine journalist, who has the merit of reviewing modestly priced wines currently available in supermarkets. In my search for value, I often try one bottle and buy more if I like them.

Vinho Regional Lisboa red 2010 – Quinta do Espirito Santo – alc.14.5% - (<€4) , made from Tinto Roriz and Castelao grapes.
Deeply coloured, quite fully bodied and honestly rustic, it was original in aromas and flavour with its lively fruit and acidity and hints of quinine on the finish being dominated by notes of aniseed as if quite a lot of Pernod had been spilled into the vat. Intriguing once in a while but not, IMO, really suitable for Boschmann’s readership but kudos for his daring to recommend it; 14.5/20.


Dão vinho branco 2010 – Quinta do Rodeio – Alc.13% - (<€4). This one was much more to my taste than the previous. The nose was attractive with exotic fruit, fresh grapes tinged with honey, spice and mineral traces. The palate was medium/light bodied and not quite bone dry with pretty fruit exuding similar aromas to the nose, some “gras” and enough smooth acidity for balance. I liked it with its fish pairing but Germaine complained that it was too sweet and needed a richer preparation or a more spicy Mediterranean recipe. My only criticisms were that it was slightly small in the mouth and that it needed to be kept cool, say <15°C, to ward off cloying, but at that price one can hardly complain and I will buy more; 15/20++ QPR!!.

[Bob Parsons Alberta]

I had to blink twice! Good for you Tim posting on Portugal. Welcome to the Joe and Bob club.

[michael dietrich]

Here in Oregon I have a distrbutor that sells the Casa Santos Lima wines. They must have about 14 different wines including a bottling of Touriga National. The Espirito Santos sell here for $10. There whole line is great value.

[Tim York]

I should have mentioned that the Dão branco is made from the Portuguese native grape varieties, Bical, Malvasia-Fina and Cerceal-Branco.

[Joe Moryl]

Ouside of Vinho Verde / Minho I'd say that the Dão and Bairrada are the most promising white wine sources in Portugal. Never heard of Rodeio, but the basic Quinta de Cabriz branco is very crisp and interesting wine for a pittance. Many consider the Encruzado grape to be one of the best for white grapes in Dão, but should you decide to try one, be aware the mono-varietal Encruzado is often barrel fermented. Bical is another intriguing grape and makes some fine wines (often blended with Maria Gomes) in Bairrada.

[Tim York]

Never heard of Rodeio, but the basic Quinta de Cabriz branco is very crisp and interesting wine for a pittance. Many consider the Encruzado grape to be one of the best for white grapes in Dão, but should you decide to try one, be aware the mono-varietal Encruzado is often barrel fermented. Bical is another intriguing grape and makes some fine wines (often blended with Maria Gomes) in Bairrada.

Joe, a clue to the identity of Rodeo may be contained by the back label's bottling information which states "Engarrafado por Vinhos de Darei".

I used to buy occasionally the Encruzado from Quinta Do Roques, which I remember as quite rich and sophisticated; probably barrel fermented as you warn. I also recall its costing close to 5 times as much as the Rodeio. The guy who imported Roques along with several other up-market labels seems to have disappeared from circulation.