Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Tim York » Sat Apr 14, 2012 4:17 pm

Robin Garr wrote:
Rahsaan wrote:To really get a handle on this we would need more comprehensive data on pricing across the US over several years and then track that with time of importer purchase and exchange rates. But I'm not about to do this!

No, I don't think any of us are that interested!


What is more telling is the way that price of some of the better Beaujolais is escalating in Euro terms. For example, many of Foillard's crus now exceed €20 here and the Morgon's of Marcel Lapierre >€15 in most places. The Fleurie and Brouilly 2010 from Vissoux bought last week were c.€13. This is no longer the cheap and cheerful wine which I remember from my 20s.
Last edited by Tim York on Sun Apr 15, 2012 6:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby David M. Bueker » Sat Apr 14, 2012 5:27 pm

I'm having a hard time with the idea of griping about paying $20 for top shelf Cru Beaujolais. :wink:
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Tim York » Sun Apr 15, 2012 3:23 pm

Brouilly Pierreux 2010 - Domaine du Vissoux, Pierre-Marie Chermette - Alc.12.5% - (c.€13). This was a delicious Brouilly showing explosively fruity aromas with a lot of savoury ivy tinged black currant, medium+ body, vivacious fruit, lively acidity, mineral flashes and decent ripe tannic grip to support the finish. Indeed the almost New World style of aromatic prominence would have made me suspect alchemy with yeasts, were it not for Chermette's pure reputation fortified by a back label statement to the effect that only indigenous yeasts from the grapes have been used. However the overall effect is fresh, vigorous and charming; 16/20+ but only just QPR when compared to what can be had in, say, the Loire and Rhöne valleys and the South West at a similar price.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby David M. Bueker » Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:53 am

Interesting ntoe TIm. I purchased some Vissoux/Chermette a couple of years ago (2007s), and was not all that impressed. Have not gone back since.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Tim York » Mon Apr 16, 2012 12:07 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Interesting ntoe TIm. I purchased some Vissoux/Chermette a couple of years ago (2007s), and was not all that impressed. Have not gone back since.


Have another go with the 2010s.

I cannot trace having owned any 2007 from Chermette, though I did sip and spit a MàV with approval at a tasting. I bought hardly any 2007s which was far from a favourite year of mine for any French reds and that also goes for the highly praised but IMO too heavy wines from the Mediterranean rim. The 2007 whites are another matter, except again for the Med rim.

The Chermette I have most loved was Fleurie Les Garants 2006 but none of his wines last very long in my cellar :D .
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais! a Moulin a Vent

Postby JC (NC) » Tue Apr 17, 2012 7:56 pm

2008 DOMAINE DIOCHON MOULIN A VENT CUVEE V.V. Imported by Kermit Lynch. 13% abv. Dark garnet color; slight transparency. Tart sour cherry flavors. Didn't impress me compared to the 2009 Chateau des Jacques Clos des Rogechgres I enjoyed last week. I had liked this at a wine dinne last year with a Kermit Lynch representative so perhaps it is a bit past its prime now. I have one more bottle. Maybe it is just in a stage where it needs more aeration. I liked it somewhat better the third evening but still pales sompared to the Chateau des Jacques.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Tim York » Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:29 am

It is my custom when there is a WF dealing with French wine to sample offerings at local supermarkets on a lucky dip basis. This one at a nearby Carrefour was a positive experience.

Chiroubles Vidame de Rocsain 2010 – Caves des Vignerons de Chiroubles/Vignerons de la Cave de Belair (co-operatives recently merged) – Alc.13% -(<€7).
I have an affection for Chiroubles dating from a three year spell in Paris in the 60s when it could be relied upon for a charmingly fruity and somewhat feminine quaff in good bistrots and brasseries. Unlike a recent bottle of a 2009 flower label from Duboeuf, this one lived up to my memories.
Showing tangy red fruit aromas, without the exaggeration of Chermette’s Brouilly, medium/light body, fresh plum with dashes of strawberry, lively acidity and nice grip on the finish, this was a charming quaff, a tad simplistic lacking some of the intensity of two recent Chermette’s but very enjoyable; 15/20++ QPR
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby David M. Bueker » Thu Apr 19, 2012 1:02 pm

2010 Lapierre Morgon
Refreshing, but no other distinguishing characteristics. Meh.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Rahsaan » Thu Apr 19, 2012 2:41 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:2010 Lapierre Morgon
Refreshing, but no other distinguishing characteristics. Meh.


I had two bottles that became a lot more expressive with several hours of air. But I still wasn't sufficiently inspired to buy any more.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Dale Williams » Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:21 pm

I just got some 2010 Lapierre, will open one soon to add 3rd opinion.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Salil » Thu Apr 19, 2012 4:26 pm

I really liked this earlier - two bottles last fall were both incredibly pure, refreshing and bright with a nice stony mineral edge to the fruit.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Mark Lipton » Fri Apr 20, 2012 2:50 pm

I'll channel Claude Kolm here and point out that, when discussing Lapierre's wines, one really should mention whether it's the sulfured or unsulfured bottling. A proxy for that might be the importer since I think that KLWM only imports the sans souffre, though I am prepared to be contradicted on that.

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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Rahsaan » Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:16 pm

Mark Lipton wrote: A proxy for that might be the importer since I think that KLWM only imports the sans souffre, though I am prepared to be contradicted on that.

Mark Lipton


That doesn't sound right to me.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby ChaimShraga » Sat Apr 21, 2012 3:53 am

I'm almost sure we get the lightly sulphured version in Israel, but I won't get to taste the 2010 this month.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby David M. Bueker » Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:43 am

Mine was sulfured, though my experiences with unsulfured bottles in the past do not give me any reason to think the lackluster showing was an artifact of sulfur. I have not been impressed with any real qualitative difference between N and S bottles.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Tim York » Sun Apr 22, 2012 7:57 am

Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2010 - Michel Guignier - Alc.13% - (c.€9), a "natural" wine made from organic grapes.
This cuvée was less of a charmer than the other Bojos I have tasted recently, including Marcel Lapierre's unsulphured Morgon 2011. The colour was quite deep leaving a strong purple stain this morning a the bottom of the unwashed glasses. The nose was discreet with tangy and savoury red fruit notes. The palate was medium/full with some quite dense savoury red fruit, lively acidity and a surprising amount of tannic backbone leading to a slightly bitter liquorice tinged finish. Judging by a TN from mid-2010, I enjoyed the 2009 more. Time could be beneficial here; 15/20+ now with ?++ potentrial.

(I attended a tasting yesterday afternoon and I have often noticed that tannins and bitter flavours seem emphasised in the dinner wine after such tastings. So the above TN should be read with this proviso in mind.)
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Rahsaan » Sun Apr 22, 2012 9:35 am

Interesting note from Tim, I had my own 2010 Morgon last night, the 2010 Descombes Morgon and I don't know if it's natural or organic but it's really freaking delicious. It starts out with such exuberant and boisterous deep gamay fruit flavors, although the structure is clear crisp and very focused. Obviously not as much weight as the 2009, but with air it gains a respectable bit of tannic structure and all in all is a very pleasing wine to drink.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Ian Fitzsimmons » Sun Apr 22, 2012 9:17 pm

I saw a post on another board today by a reputable wine drinker of some experience describing the 1943 Moulin-a-Vent he opened recently for his birthday in the most glowing of terms. FWIW, my limited experience from about 2002 on - Thivin, Coudert, Foillard, Granger, Tete, Vissoux - militates strongly in favor of aging the cru wines from good producers in ripe/balanced vintages.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Thomas G » Thu Apr 26, 2012 3:48 pm

Lyn Archer wrote:Hi:
Just joined your fine forum - any words of wisdom from folks who may have traveled to Beaujolais? My husband and I are heading there in May for our first visit. Cheers!

check out the blogs: wineterroirs.com and not drinking poison in paris
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2009 Terres Dorees, Fleurie

Postby David Mc » Thu Apr 26, 2012 5:18 pm

2009 Terres Dorees, Fleurie ($24)

Opened this right before dinner with no aeration time. I whined to my wife the whole dinner about how I didn't like Gamay and can't believe I bought a bottle of Beaujolais let alone spent $24 on it. The nose was OK with some floral notes and that gamy smell but the taste was flat with no noticeable tannins - reminded me of Dolcetto. Overall, very dull.

On the second night - WOW!! Nice floral notes on the nose; on the palate, a lingering medium/full earthy taste with slight hints of fruit. I would have never thought it was Gamay. I was sad when I finished the bottle, very enjoyable. Next time I'll do an hour aeration before drinking...
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Mark Lipton » Thu Apr 26, 2012 11:50 pm

2007 Guy Breton Morgon VV
nose: undemonstrative, mostly smelling of pomegranate with a hint of meaty something
palate: high acidity, medium-light body, modest finish

Jean thought that this wine lacked brightness and was tired; I, OTOH, felt that it was showing maturity but still very appealing, albeit in a lighter vein befitting the vintage. Nice accompaniment to a roast chicken dinner.

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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Rahsaan » Sat Apr 28, 2012 9:42 am

Do you often age Breton? I never really thought to, as they seemed more fragile than Foillard, Thevenet and Lapierre when young. But this sounds interesting, if not particularly thrilling.

FWIW, I thought the 07 Descombes VV was pretty thrilling throughout 2011.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Tim York » Sat Apr 28, 2012 4:15 pm

Fleurie Poncié 2010 - Domaine du Vissoux, Pierre-Marie Chermette - Alc.12.5% - (€13) - The man who sold me this bottle together with a bottle Brouilly Pierreux (see TN above) from the same vintage and stable challenged me to find a difference between the two wines. Well, with the proviso that I did not taste them together and that the pairings were different, I think that there was a distinct difference. This one showed fine aromas of mineral tinged red fruit expressed discreetly but clearly. The body was medium at most, the palate shape was linear with perfect integration and balance between the fine fruit, aromas, lively acidity and gently grippy tannic structure. Whereas my memory of the Brouilly was of a quite robust wine with rather "in your face" aromas, this Fleurie gave a fragrantly elegant and harmonious impression as well as being hugely moreish and gluggable; 16.5/20.
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Re: Wine Focus for April: Beaujolais!

Postby Rahsaan » Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:00 pm

Tim York wrote:Fleurie Poncié 2010 - Domaine du Vissoux, Pierre-Marie Chermette - Alc.12.5% - (€13) - The man who sold me this bottle together with a bottle Brouilly Pierreux (see TN above) from the same vintage and stable challenged me to find a difference between the two wines. Well, with the proviso that I did not taste them together and that the pairings were different, I think that there was a distinct difference. This one showed fine aromas of mineral tinged red fruit expressed discreetly but clearly. The body was medium at most, the palate shape was linear with perfect integration and balance between the fine fruit, aromas, lively acidity and gently grippy tannic structure. Whereas my memory of the Brouilly was of a quite robust wine with rather "in your face" aromas, this Fleurie gave a fragrantly elegant and harmonious impression as well as being hugely moreish and gluggable; 16.5/20.


Interesting. I think I remember the exact opposite from 2009. That is the Poncie was too round and the Pierreux was much more focused and refreshing. Whether that reflects differences in how the vineyards received the vintages or just random palate/tasting quirks, I don't know. I have never really gotten sufficiently excited by Vissoux to explore the wines in depth.
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