My sense of smell was compromised by the odors of browning shallots for the chicken Madeira, and other typical smells of a mountain cabin – such as fresh wood in the wood pile by the stove – but I opened a 2003 Cantemerle anyway to get a sense of it. I need to drink another one soon without competing smells to understand it better.
I got a hint of barnyard early on, I think, but I can’t be sure, so it certainly wasn’t pronounced for me, as it was for Otto,apparently. I love barnyard, in the ilk of Beaucastel and old Cordier stinkers, but this one didn’t show anything like that. The nose initially was very deep and complex, reminiscent of a very fine Bordeaux. The finish was extraordinarily long. In the middle were savory flavors of black fruits, cassis and wonderful tar, a little like 1990 Angelus. Tannins were mild and not at all oppressive.
Interestingly, after about an hour or less, the wine changed its complexion to predominantly red fruit with lots of cherry, and tasted like other 2003s I have drunk. The 2003 Bordeaux taste is unmistakable, like the 1997 is for its own last. You could never mistake the 2003 for another year, but I could have mistaken the Cantemerle for another appellation. It was like its terroir was 90% 2003 season and maybe 10% Haut Medoc/Southern Margaux territory.
I still can’t make up my mind as to whether I really like 2003 Bordeaux as much as other years. It is very different. Definitely Bordeaux, but more like Merlot than Cab, in my opinion.
Looking forward to a second bottle in the suburbs with something mild cooking.
I thought this was a nice exception to most 2003s in that it's terroir showed so well. I also thought the Cabernets were nicely noticable and the 40% Merlot in the blend was a touch of spice rather a dominant flavour.