Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Christian Vendramin » Wed Jul 07, 2010 11:01 am

Bob Henrick wrote:
Don Appleton wrote:In a previous post I mentioned the Compania wine Terrodora Greco di Tufo DOCG - very different from the northern Italian whites in aroma and palate characteristics, I like the full body earthy nature of this wine with a reasonable acidity backbone as well. How do others feel about this wine?


Don, I too am a big fan of the Terradora whites. I especially like their Fiano, Greco, and Falanghina. These are all (IMO) bigger wines than most Pinot Grigio from the north. They are full bodied wines (especially the Fiano and Greco). I like the aromatics as well as the flavors, especially the nutty (almonds?) quality I usually find. However,these wines are about to price themselves out of what I am willing to pay. In my area they are $30 for the Fiano, and $25 for the Greco.



Chestnut (flour) is a typical aroma of Fiano di Avellino.
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Bob Henrick » Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:58 pm

Christian Vendramin wrote:Chestnut (flour) is a typical aroma of Fiano di Avellino.


Thanks for the information Christian. I knew it was nuts of some type, but didn't hit on either hazelnuts nor hazelnut flour. I would suppose the flour is used in making baked desserts? I must also say that while I can buy less expensive fiano than the TerredorA, they are not nearly as good.
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Oliver McCrum » Wed Jul 07, 2010 6:21 pm

Bob Henrick wrote:
Oliver McCrum wrote:I was avoiding posting to avoid the appearance of crass salesmanship, since too many of the Italian wines I taste during the year are my own, but with all of your forbearance, another Falanghina:
2009 Falanghina, La Sibilla, Campi Flegrei
Falanghina grown on ungrafted vines just up the coast from Naples. Lean, distinctive, minerally, almost Muscadet-like; hints of lemon-peel, herbs; only 12% alcohol which is refreshing these days; worked well as a dry aperitif with olives and salami. I find really dry clean white wines get my appetite started, and this is no exception.

I import this wine.


Oliver, sell it in Kentucky! :-)


I have my hands full in CA, Bob, sorry. Maybe we'll drink a bottle one day, who knows.
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Bob Parsons Alberta » Sat Jul 10, 2010 2:00 am

WTN: `09 Roberto Anselmi Capitel Foscarino Veneto IGT.

Single vineyard Soave labelled IGT Veneto. $30 Cdn, 13% alc, great packaging, good natural cork.

Interesting style of Soave at a high price! Believe juice spends six months on its lees, I also wonder if there is some chardonnay in here?

The color is a medium straw and on the nose I find some white stonefruit, almost tropical......apricot, melon, peach and some floral tones as it opens. I served this quite chilled, good concentration of fruit, beautiful focus here. Fruit stands out with fair acidity. Not at all blowsy in style, nice pink grapefruit on finish second day.."to me more lemon/lime...pear/apple" from across the table. We both thought the wine top drawer but oh the price.

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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Tim York » Sat Jul 10, 2010 3:38 am

Nice bottle , Bob. I have been impressed by the Anselmi range at sip and spit tastings and here are some notes from December 2007 -

Roberto ANSELMI – Monteforte d’Alpone (VR)

Anselmi has opted out of the Soave DOC. Fine wines here. SAN VINCENZO Igt 2006 (EUR 14,30), 85% Garganega and 15% Trebbiano Soave, is charmingly fragrant and generous showing white fruit with pineapple notes and minerality; 15.5/20. CAPITEL CROCE Igt 2005 (EUR 20,80), 100% Garganega, is more closed and backward but showing crisp, dense fruit and good length; needs a little time to open up; 16/20 with potential. CAPITEL FOSCARINO Igt 2006 (EUR 18), 80% Garganega and 20% Trebbiano, is more supple and generous than the previous with crisp, fresh fruit and good length; 16/20.


Interesting that your 09 was showing so well when I comment that at 2 years the 05 needed more time. More proof, I think, that many finer whites (and reds too) are often superb soon after bottling but then sulk for a few years.

Have you tried the Pieropan range from Soave? Even better, perhaps. Some people complain about excessive oaking of Anselmi's and Pieropan's top cuvées but it has never bothered me.
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Bob Parsons Alberta » Sat Jul 10, 2010 1:30 pm

Thanks Tim. The Pieropan range is on allocation so will be hard to track down, only the entry-level downtown.
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Tim York » Sat Jul 10, 2010 4:14 pm

Bob, you are better off than me if you have the Pieropan entry level downtown; in order to get it, unless I'm missing something, I have to do a more than 200km round trip to the importer where I made these notes last October.

Leonildo Pieropan, Soave
An always good range presented by one Leonildo’s sons. Smoother wines here than from Lageder. The whites are dry and are made from Garganega (all three) plus Trebbiano di Soave (the first two).
Soave classico 2008 (€10) showed nice fresh fruit with meaty aromas; quite simple; 14.5/20.
Soave Calvarino 2006 (€16) from volcanic soil was more complex than the basic with fragrance, minerality and a salty finish; 16/20.
Soave La Rocca 2006 (€23) from clay soil was richer, fruitier and more ingratiating; some people complain of wood on this but it did not trouble me; I remarked to Pieropan that Calvarino was Chablis compared to La Rocca’s Côte d’Or and he told me that up to the 30s the Calvarino area used to be known as Petit Chablis; 16/20.

Ruberpan IGT 2004 (R) (€20), made from Corvina Veronese, Rondinella corvinone and croatina Veronese, was an elegant medium weight red with nice tangy red fruit and lively acidity; 16/20.


The basic Soave Classico is well worth drinking; re-reading these notes I think that I may have under-rated it.
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WTN: 2006 Edi Kante Carso Vitovska

Postby David M. Bueker » Sat Jul 10, 2010 7:31 pm

2006 Edi Kante Carso Vitovska (Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Carso)
Smoky, stony and quite fruity in an underripe pear sort of way. There's richness of texture that lingers in the mouth, and the overall impression is even slightly thick. It's an interesting wine both aromatically and in the mouth, which is all that can be asked for. Good food partner as well.

The QPR is highly suspect at $35 - the wine's only meaningful flaw.
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Richard Fadeley » Sun Jul 11, 2010 11:52 am

Tasting my way through a variety of summer whites I came across two interesting wines from Italy:
Santi '08 Monteforte Soave Classico (DOC), crisp with a pleasant nuttiness. Good with food (baked grouper w/fresh tomato salsa). About $12 and a good value!
Banfi '09 Centine Toscana (IGT), surprisingly tasty blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio. Much better than I would have expected. Refreshing and a positive combination that emphasizes positive attributes of all three grapes. About $10 and another good value!
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Don Appleton » Wed Jul 14, 2010 7:36 am

Shared a bottle of 2009 Terredora Falanghina with friends last night before dinner. This wine has wonderfully complex aromatics along with some richness and tropical fruit on the palate with enough acidity to keep it crisp and lively. Highly recommended especially for the sale price of $11.99 I paid!
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Bob Henrick » Wed Jul 14, 2010 8:55 am

Don Appleton wrote:Shared a bottle of 2009 Terredora Falanghina with friends last night before dinner. This wine has wonderfully complex aromatics along with some richness and tropical fruit on the palate with enough acidity to keep it crisp and lively. Highly recommended especially for the sale price of $11.99 I paid!


Who said that the PLCB never had a bargain? :-) That is a darn nice price for this wine Don. it prompted me to look at the PLCB catalog to check the prices on the Terredora Fiano and Greco. Doesn't look as those two are on sale, but at $12 I would take a case of the Falanghina!
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Don Appleton » Wed Jul 14, 2010 12:31 pm

Bob Henrick wrote:
Don Appleton wrote:Shared a bottle of 2009 Terredora Falanghina with friends last night before dinner. This wine has wonderfully complex aromatics along with some richness and tropical fruit on the palate with enough acidity to keep it crisp and lively. Highly recommended especially for the sale price of $11.99 I paid!


Who said that the PLCB never had a bargain? :-) That is a darn nice price for this wine Don. it prompted me to look at the PLCB catalog to check the prices on the Terredora Fiano and Greco. Doesn't look as those two are on sale, but at $12 I would take a case of the Falanghina!


Bob,
I got the Falanghina at a wine shop in NJ - at the $12 sale price I got the last three bottles in the store!
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Christian Vendramin » Wed Jul 14, 2010 12:49 pm

Don Appleton wrote:
Bob Henrick wrote:
Don Appleton wrote:Shared a bottle of 2009 Terredora Falanghina with friends last night before dinner. This wine has wonderfully complex aromatics along with some richness and tropical fruit on the palate with enough acidity to keep it crisp and lively. Highly recommended especially for the sale price of $11.99 I paid!


Who said that the PLCB never had a bargain? :-) That is a darn nice price for this wine Don. it prompted me to look at the PLCB catalog to check the prices on the Terredora Fiano and Greco. Doesn't look as those two are on sale, but at $12 I would take a case of the Falanghina!


Bob,
I got the Falanghina at a wine shop in NJ - at the $12 sale price I got the last three bottles in the store!



€ 7 euro.....in Italy..... :D
I have never tasted Terredora's wines. Italian guides speak about them as good wines but not so characteristic.
I'm curious. I'll taste them as soon as possible.
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Jenise » Wed Jul 14, 2010 3:17 pm

This week I rounded up two unusual Italian whites in local stores, and we tried them both last night.

With the appetizer course of humboldt fog chevre and a lightly sweet cucumber slices with garlic and vinegar, I served the 2009 de Tarczal Moscato Giallo from Trentino. A dry wine with a winningly modest 12.9%, we both found ourselves struggling for descriptors. The muscat was very evident in the nose, frisky grapefruit and all that. But on the palate there was a sweet perfumey taste that belies where one usually finds perfume, but that's what we both called it while searching for other references until Bob nailed it by mentioning viognier. YES, it smelled like muscat but had the lavender-bergamotty taste of viognier. The finish was viognier-like too, verging-on-offdry. It's well-made and interesting, and it suited the course well, but we agreed that we wouldn't be tempted to purchase again unless we needed something "pretty" for someone's mother-in-law. :) $15, a Small Vineyards Import.

Our main course was pesto-crusted grilled rockfish with cabbage and thin carrot slices stir-fried with fresh garlic brought to me just that morning by my friend Marco. With that we tasted the bigger-bodied 2008 Tenuta Sant'Antonio Scaia Bianca, a blend of garganega, trebbiano and chardonnay from the Veneto. Bolder fruit and bigger acid made it immediately more compelling, but it was less interesting after it sat in the glass. In the process of knitting together it got a little too homogenous where the jagged edges as each of the three grapes fought for your attention had been electrifying in a good way. Orange, grass, apple, hazelnuts, salt--all these great flavors somersaulted in and out of the picture. Seemed a tiny bit hot by comparison to the Moscato Giallo, but that might have been the acid playing with our imaginations: the label says it was actually less, 12.5%. $12, imported by Dalla Terra Winery Direct.
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Bob Parsons Alberta » Wed Jul 14, 2010 7:47 pm

With the appetizer course of humboldt fog chevre and a lightly sweet cucumber slices with garlic and vinegar

Which kinda vinegar? I would not care too much for that!
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Jenise » Wed Jul 14, 2010 8:53 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:With the appetizer course of humboldt fog chevre and a lightly sweet cucumber slices with garlic and vinegar

Which kinda vinegar? I would not care too much for that!


Oh yes you would. Not like eating pickles. I use white wine vinegar, which quickly dilutes from the moisture in the cucumbers and salt and sugar together provide balance.
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Robin Garr » Wed Jul 14, 2010 9:28 pm

Jenise wrote:Oh yes you would. Not like eating pickles. I use white wine vinegar, which quickly dilutes from the moisture in the cucumbers and salt and sugar together provide balance.

Yes! An OLD recipe in my family, goes back to childhood, and I think my father got it from his parents. No sugar, though. We add in sweet white onions sliced paper thin rather than garlic, toss with vinegar (cider is okay, a little more dimension than white), and toss it with ice cubes in the bowl to keep everything as cool as ... well, you know. ;)
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Bill Hooper » Sat Jul 17, 2010 5:37 pm

Alois Lageder Südtirol Sauvignon 2008, 13% alc.

I don´t know how many of you have noticed, but the Alto Adige and Friuli have been making some outstanding Sauvignon Blanc lately. Since I´ve had a tremendous run with them and that I´m also a bit of a Lageder true believer, there wasn´t much chance that I wasn´t going to like this one (I´m even a huge fan of Lageders Vernatsch -not many better wines with hearty, but simple mountain-fare.) The 08 Sauvignon is of grapefruit, orange, a touch of melon, and (though I tried hard not to find it, indeed there is some) gooseberry, lemon zest, cucumber, and a very nice flinty mineral. This is best for what it is not: pungently aromatic NZ Sauvignon Blanc. It has some succulence, but it is also streamlined and understated. A bargain at 15€

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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Christian Vendramin » Sun Jul 18, 2010 7:22 am

Focus on "Chardonnay d'Italia". All the wines are 100% chardonnay.

Chardonnay 2004 - Maso Furli (Trentino): light-straw yellow. Butter, ginger, hazenut, mint, wood. Medium body, balanced. Saline finish. Short.

Salice Salentino bianco 2004 - Donnalisa (Puglia): golden yellow. Very ripe fruit, mango, passion frut, herby. Fat, full body. A little bit lacking in acidity. Just a touch short. Hot finish.

Chardonnay riserva 2004 Castel Ringberg - Elena Walck (Alto Adige): Rich color. Butter and wood. Then wood and butter. Medium body. No acidity. Wood again. Anonimous.

Chardonnay Al Poggio 2000 - Castello di Ama (Toscana): Full yellow/amber. Some oxidation. Baked apple, tea, resin. Dry and vigorous on the palate. Zabaione. Too developed.

Gaia e Rey 2000 - Gaja (Piemonte): medium golden yellow. Deep nose, white ripe fruits, balsamic herbs, mineral, torrefaction. Succulent and powerful, balanced. Ripe and rich. Plenty of depth and grip. Surprire.

Chardonnay 2000 - Isole e Olena (Toscana): full golden yellow. Ripe tropical fruit, pastry, earty, oaky. Full body, great susbance, gret concentration. Not enouth acidity to balance the power.


.....to be continued.
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby JC (NC) » Mon Jul 19, 2010 1:52 pm

I was disappointed in the selection of Italian white wines both at Harris-Teeter grocery store (mostly Pinot Grigio, Pinot Grigio/Chardonnay blends or Soave) and at The Wine Merchant, Raleigh. I did pick up a 2008 RUFFINO ORVIETO CLASSICO D.O.C. ABBOCATO at the grocery store.
Pale straw color with transparency. Lifted pear note on nose and palate. Medium-length finish with a pleasing flavor. Fitting for seafood, chicken or pork. I had it the first evening with a baked pork chop and onions.

While dining at Zely and Ritz Saturday, I saw that they had a Verdicchio by the glass so I ordered that to go with pan-seared grouper in an herb sauce. 2008 FATTORIA LAILA, VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI, Marche, Italy. Pale straw color; transparent. Spritely and tangy on the tastebuds. Paired nicely with the grouper. Not able to pin down flavors other than finding a slight herbal note.

I started with the Coon Rock Cocktail--one of the owners farms Cook Rock Farm and provides some of the vegetables, etc. used at the restaurant. This was Hendrick's Gin with cucumber, lime and fresh mint. It made a splendid pairing with my appetizer of summer salad (cubed potatoes, fresh peas, squash, corn.) After the small grouper serving I ordered two cheeses--Camembert and a goat cheese which come on a plate with pears poached in red wine.
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Oliver McCrum » Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:07 pm

Christian Vendramin wrote:Focus on "Chardonnay d'Italia". All the wines are 100% chardonnay.

Chardonnay 2004 - Maso Furli (Trentino): light-straw yellow. Butter, ginger, hazenut, mint, wood. Medium body, balanced. Saline finish. Short.

Salice Salentino bianco 2004 - Donnalisa (Puglia): golden yellow. Very ripe fruit, mango, passion frut, herby. Fat, full body. A little bit lacking in acidity. Just a touch short. Hot finish.

Chardonnay riserva 2004 Castel Ringberg - Elena Walck (Alto Adige): Rich color. Butter and wood. Then wood and butter. Medium body. No acidity. Wood again. Anonimous.

Chardonnay Al Poggio 2000 - Castello di Ama (Toscana): Full yellow/amber. Some oxidation. Baked apple, tea, resin. Dry and vigorous on the palate. Zabaione. Too developed.

Gaia e Rey 2000 - Gaja (Piemonte): medium golden yellow. Deep nose, white ripe fruits, balsamic herbs, mineral, torrefaction. Succulent and powerful, balanced. Ripe and rich. Plenty of depth and grip. Surprire.

Chardonnay 2000 - Isole e Olena (Toscana): full golden yellow. Ripe tropical fruit, pastry, earty, oaky. Full body, great susbance, gret concentration. Not enouth acidity to balance the power.


.....to be continued.


Christian,

I have to say that this pretty much confirms my prejudice about Chardonnay in Italy. (There are a few exceptions, of course; some high-altitude vineyards in the Alto Adige, some sparkling wines from the Alta Langa.)

I have heard that the Gaja wine is good but I'm never going to pay for a bottle.
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:51 pm

Oliver, I have found this white downtown. What you think?

2006 Calatrasi Terre Dignestra

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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Bruce Hayes » Mon Jul 19, 2010 8:24 pm

ANSELMI SAN VINCENZO 2009
Veneto

A blend of Garganega, Chardonnay and Trebbiano.

Bright yellow in the glass.

Pear, buttered toast on the nose.

Medium weight, quie rich, pears, a hint of lemon, honeyed, spicy, good acidity, toast, refreshing.

With time, the wine became leaner, displaying a more cutting edge, with peppery lemon and grapefruit dominating.

Tangy and mouthwatering on the finish.

I have enjoyed this wine over several vintages and do not recall others showing this degree of tanginess and cutting acidity. I think I prefer the other vintages, which stressed rich pears and honey throughout.

Purchased at $14.95 (Canadian).
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Re: Wine Focus: Italian whites in July!

Postby Christian Vendramin » Tue Jul 20, 2010 6:11 am

Oliver McCrum wrote:Christian,

I have to say that this pretty much confirms my prejudice about Chardonnay in Italy. (There are a few exceptions, of course; some high-altitude vineyards in the Alto Adige, some sparkling wines from the Alta Langa.)

I have heard that the Gaja wine is good but I'm never going to pay for a bottle.



I have the same prejudice. :wink:

Gaia e Rey: .....mmmmmm....... 80/100 euro: I can take a good 1er of Leflaive or Sauzet, a Bonneau du Martray's Corton Charlemange, a Roulot's Meursault 1er etc..........I have no doubts!
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