Wine Focus March 2010: The Loire

[Drew Hall]

Alfio Moriconi selection.
Had some 70's degree weather last week so popped this and sipped while relaxing in the Gazebo.
100% Chenin Blanc, demi-sec.

2008 Doulce France Bougrier"V" Vouvray
Pale new hay in color. Lemon, lemon curd,stone fruit, pithe and subtle minerality. The sweetness doesn't dominate and the finish is very long. Not overly complex but for $9 it was delightful.
11.5% Alc/vol.

Drew

[Salil]

2008 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Pif
A blend of Malbec and Cab Franc in a really refreshing, light package that's full of bright red and dark fruits seasoned with earth, meaty notes and freshly cracked black pepper. The acidity here gives it such an amazing sense of freshness, almost as if the fruit was just picked minutes ago. Grainy tannins on the back end as this finishes slightly dry, but absolutely delicious with a light pasta. I really wish this didn't have a plastic cork, as I'd love to see what this could turn into with a few years.

[David M. Bueker]

Several folks have commented that they wished the CRB had real corks or screw caps. I wonder if people consider the intent of the producer - that they may feel the wines are best in their youth.

[Robin Garr]

Old Day Late, Dollar Short here just ordered a box from Chambers Street with a lotta Loires. I guess it will still be okay to post them next month.

[Matt Richman]

2005 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses (France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon)

Smooth, deep, bright fruit with nice level of acidity and suave toasty oak, coffee, some floral notes, and a long finish. A very pretty wine drinking very well. Wonderful and a real steal.
B/B+

[David M. Bueker]

Interesting comment on the 2005 Raffault. I found it much more brooding/unfriendly a couple of weeks ago, but it was served alongside much more mature wines at the time.

[Bob Henrick]

On the label it says "Tuffeau Saumur, Appellation Saumur Controlee, Mis en bouteille á la Propriété, Cave de Saumur. This wine is a 100% chenin wine made by Vincent Mureau, and is a selection of Laurent Terrisson Wines, and imported by Fruit of the Vines Inc of New York, NY. Purchased at the Party Source in Northern Kentucky for $8.99 per bottle minus a 10% discount by the case.

I originally tried a bottle of this wine from the 2007 vintage and found it very acidic, and didn't revisit. However when I was in the Party Source a few months ago, one of the wine guys that I have learned to respect, told me that the 2008 was better, but it needed a little bit of time. I went ahead and added a case to my cart and of course tried it soon. No surprise, but it was screaming acid! I needed a white for some shrooms I was sautéing for dinner this past Sunday so I opened one of these. Still a LOT of acid, but used it anyway, and wished I had not when I finished the shrooms. I reinserted the cork and left the bottle sit in the fridge, then I wanted a sip of white last evening and by golly, I do believe this wine will come around, it might need 6 months more rest, but signs that it is a true chenin are beginning to show. Any one wanting to check the wine out should click the link below.

http://www.terrisson-wines.com/m_catalo ... nu=product

[Bruce K]

Domaine Vacheron 2004 Sancerre rouge, $23
This started out thin, harsh and overly acidic (a rare complaint from me), a consequence of popping and pouring right at cellar temperature. As it warmed and gained exposure to air, it fleshed out and came more into balance, becoming a pretty pinot noir with cherry, cinnamon, earth and mineral aromas and flavors. However, it was surprisingly tannic — something I almost never get from Loire PNs and not from a bottle of this wine consumed 18 months ago, either. Odd. Still, I enjoyed it and it was an excellent match with baked wild Alaskan sockeye in a maple/soy/ginger glaze.

[Bob Henrick]

Domaine Vacheron 2004 Sancerre rouge, $23
This started out thin, harsh and overly acidic (a rare complaint from me), a consequence of popping and pouring right at cellar temperature. As it warmed and gained exposure to air, it fleshed out and came more into balance, becoming a pretty pinot noir with cherry, cinnamon, earth and mineral aromas and flavors. However, it was surprisingly tannic — something I almost never get from Loire PNs and not from a bottle of this wine consumed 18 months ago, either. Odd. Still, I enjoyed it and it was an excellent match with baked wild Alaskan sockeye in a maple/soy/ginger glaze.

Bruce, I don't have any of this wine in my cellar, but I have some wild Alaskan sockeye in the freezer. (might even be Copper River). I would love to hear just how you did the salmon, and your opinion of doing it on the grill instead of in the oven. I bet it would go well with a Stone Wolf or Lindsay Oregon pinot as well.

[Bob Parsons Alberta]

That red Sancerre sounds of interest, not a wine I am able to find here naturally. The tannic notes you mention need attention from Jim Budd!

[Bruce K]

Bob, I prefer grilling to baking, but the weather and other circumstances made it more conducive to the oven last night.

When I grill, I use a Weber with real charcoal. My favorite way of grilling is to make two piles of coals on opposite sides of the grill. I put a strip of aluminum foil on the bottom in between the two piles to catch drippings and ensure indirect heat. I soak alder chips in water for a half-hour or so, then put the chips on top of the hot coals. I put the sockeye fillet in the middle of the grill, skin side down, put the lid on and the natural convection of the grill and the smoke from the alder cook it beautifully -- usually it's ready in 10-20 minutes depending on how thick the fillet is.

With the glaze (works for grilling or baking), I mix olive oil, soy sauce, maple syrup, lots of ginger, a little minced garlic, and a little bit of lemon juice and balsamic vinegar in a pan and heat it for 15-20 minutes or so until it thickens. Then I spread it on top of the salmon before cooking.

I've enjoyed wild Alaskan salmon with pinot noirs from the Loire, Burgundy and Oregon alike. I also like it with Loire Cab Francs.

[Bob Henrick]

Thanks for the reply Bruce, I have copied it to my food folder, and will try it soon, maybe even for Easter dinner.

[Bob Parsons Alberta]

Happy Easter Bob H. How is the Marsanne situation?

[Bruce K]

Thanks for the reply Bruce, I have copied it to my food folder, and will try it soon, maybe even for Easter dinner.

Well, this was my Passover Seder dinner, so sounds like the perfect ecumenical choice.

[Bob Henrick]

Happy Easter Bob H. How is the Marsanne situation?

Bob, my supply is holding up so far, but my DC source will no longer ship to me in Kentucky, so it is possible that I may someday run out. Happy Easter back atcha.

[JC (NC)]

Forgot to bring in my note on the Chinon which I picked up at the grocery store last week. Will post tomorrow. I also opened a Pascal Cotat Sancerre from "Les Monts Damnees" but I think it was oxidized so will not bother posting on it. Too bad as I usually really like the Cotat Sancerres.

[Matt Richman]

So sadly March is over. I only got up to Saumur in my Loire studies so far.

It was very interesting and helpful to have everyone posting their notes and thoughts. I'll be on my own personal Loire wine focus for a few more months. I'll post notes on interesting things as I find them.

Thanks to everyone for your expertise!

[Bob Parsons Alberta]

I have a few to post too Matt so we will keep the Loire alive!!

[David M. Bueker]

We'll leave the sticky up top for a few more days, and the Loire is so full of options that perhaps it might make sense to come back to it in high summer. Anyone?

[JC (NC)]

Sounds good to me David. Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadet wines and light Sancerre rouge or rose etc. are great summertime drinks.

[Mark Casias]

happy Easter to all of you here! Your right JC that where great for summer drink..

[Bob Parsons Alberta]

We'll leave the sticky up top for a few more days, and the Loire is so full of options that perhaps it might make sense to come back to it in high summer. Anyone?

Good idea David. A sort of mini Open Mike!!!! Any guess on how many pages we will finish with. LOL.

Welcome Mark, great folks here! Where are you based?

[JC (NC)]

2008 M. Plouzeau Chinon Rive Gauche, Loire

I was thinking this was from the grocery store but I purchased it at Seaboard Wine Warehouse, Raleigh for $14.99. Put in bottle at the Chateau de la Bonneliere. 12.5% alcohol.
Deep purple and opaque. Dark fruits on nose and palate. Not flawed but doesn't excite me. Maybe I don't really relate to Cabernet Franc as a single variety or maybe this inexpensive wine is not a good representative of the grape.

[Howie Hart]

For Christmas, one of my sons gave me $50 gift certificate to a local wine store. I used it to buy 3 bottles of Loire whites, however, I only opened one so far. A few nights ago I opened 2007 Sauvion Muscadet (about $10) with Robin's Simple Shrimp & Pasta. Plastic cork. Straw color and a bit of spritz. Not a lot going on aromatically, but nothing objectionable. Good acid balance and nice, full mouthfeel. Cleansed the palate nicely and complemented the dish nicely. I'll be taking a Vouvray to Maine with me this weekend to wash down a lobster, but haven't planned a meal for the Sancerre yet.