Latkes -The Best not from the Gods But From Rogov

[Daniel Rogov]

I recently had an email discussion with Gamliel Kronimer in which I stated (categorically, it should be noted) that I made the world's best latkes. Gamliel, a man whose company and intellectual exchange I enjoy very much, responded by saying that it was he that made the world's best latkes.

My response to him: "Ha, ha, and double ha!!!!! I may not be very expert with the epee or with a pistol, but when it comes to latkes my friend, no sane person would dare challenge the absolute superiority of Rogov's latkes!!!!!!"

Gamliel suggested a cook-off. I responded that it might be great fun, Chanukah or not. I shall be in the USA from early to mid-February. What thinkest we of a true latkes cook-off to determine the truth of the matter? I'm all for it. Suggested venue, Washington D.C. or its immediate vicinity.

And if not that, at least your comments about latkes and perhaps your recipes. I indeed invite Gamliel to post his here. Following that, I shall post my own. Others are most welcome to chime in.

To the uninitiated, comparing latkes to mere potato pancakes is somewhat akin to comparing a 1962 Volkswaken to a 1990 Lamborghini to comparing Paris Hilton to Audrey Hepburn or to comparing Nouveau Beaujolais to a fine Romanee Conti de la Romanee Conti. I repeat what I said earlier, ha, ha and double ha!!!!!

Best
Rogov

P.S. As I write, just received an IM from Gamliel in which he claims: " I agree an actual latke cookoff cookoff could be a lot of fun. And though I may be taking a foolish risk, but I'll stand by my latkes anytime, any place!" He will be proven wrong, wrong, wrong and, after that, wrong again! None doth dare challenge the Rogov latkes and survive to tell the tale.

[Isi M]

I will let both of you play with your latkes.
My wife being the best latkes cook, has been declared off-competition due to her too high level ....

[Gamliel K]

Rogov,

I take up your gauntlet. I will gladly defend my latkes, and am sure that I can come up with an appropriate venue for this contest. For now I will share my latke recipe with the forum.

5 lbs russet potatoes, pealed and shredded
2 lbs Vidalia onions, shredded
1/2 cup flour
4 eggs
1 tbsp sea salt
2 tbsp coarsely (and freshly) ground grains of paradise
1 qt of olive oil for frying
1 gill of Irish Whiskey

Put the potatoes and onions in a jelly bag and squeeze the heck out of them. Then mix in a large bowl with the other ingredients, save the oil and whiskey. Take a sip of the whiskey, then take a handful of the mixture and squeeze between the palms of both hands to get rid of excess liquid. Slip the latke into a fry pan of very hot olive oil and fry for three minutes on each side. Repeat ad infinitum. Serve with homemade applesauce and ice-cold brut Champagne.

[Daniel Rogov]

I continue with my "ha". Gamliel's latkes may be fine but they are, in fact a sort of post modern version (and obviously inferior version). Now postmo is fine with me. Sheesh…..I even enjoy postmo novels and poetry. But postmo latkes? I suspect that this offends five hundred years of Jewish tradition.

As to specifying the type of potatoes and onions – heck, that is merely Puritanical. With re adding Irish whiskey, although that might please Umberto Eco it would absolutely shock any Polish, German or Russian Jewish mama, papa or grandparent. And so it should shock Jewish children, grandchildren and by heaven, even great-grandchildren. And although dealing with "something" called "grains of paradise" might appeal to those who shop entirely at D.C. or NYC gourmet shops, it would cause most Jewish grandmothers to utter forth with quiet moaning (or, if one prefers, loud kvetching).

Vidalia onions, shmildalia onions…..foo….any old white onion will do. Part of the trick, and here Gamliel and I agree, is the continous squeezing out of the liquids from the potato onion mixture.

My own recipe – the height of simplicity. And truth is the greatness of Rogov's latkes depends as much on the combination of flour, salt and pepper with the onion and potato mixture and then (a god-given gift) knowing precisely the right moment for turning the latkes to their second side while frying.

It is said that all is fair in love and war. I do not agree. But indeed, all is absolutely fair in a latke cook-off. Oh yes, in the making of true latkes, it is absolutely forbidden to shred potatoes. The potatoes must (be there no question and no exception) be grated by hand. As to those who try to grate their potatoes in a food processor, let them know that a special level of Hell awaits them!

Best
Rogov (who will be doing latkes for about 20 people, all of whom will be ecstatic, on Friday night)



Rogov's Potato Latkes
The Potato Latkes

12 large potatoes, peeled and grated by hand
3 medium onions, grated
4 eggs, beaten lightly
5 Tbsp. flour or more as required
salt and pepper to taste
oil (ideally a mixture of 50% olive oil, 40% canola oil and 10% walnut oil) for frying (at least 2 1/2 cm or if you prefer 1" deep)

Using a clean tea towel squeeze out as much of the liquid from the potatoes as possible. (The more liquid that can be squeezed out, the better will be the latkes). In the same fashion, squeeze out the liquid from the onions. Combine all the ingredients except the oil and mix together well by hand. Be generous in seasoning with salt and pepper.

In a heavy skillet heat oil a minimum of 21/2 cm. (1") deep. Form individual pancakes by hand and when the oil is thoroughly hot slide in enough pancakes to fill most of the pot, but be sure to leave room between the pancakes. When the latkes are nicely browned on the first side, turn them and cook until browned on both sides and crisp on the edges. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper toweling. Serve immediately or keep warm in a very low oven. Serve plain or with sour cream, applesauce or sugar. (Serves 4 - 6).

Variation: To make Polish Ratzelech, add 2 large peeled, cored and grated apples to the batter and fry the pancakes in a large skillet with about 2 1/2 centimeters of hot chicken fat.


P.S. I do hope that all are taking this in precisely the humor that is intended. Only true friends can insult each other as easily as I do here. All insults in return are warmly invited.

[Daniel Rogov]

My wife being the best latkes cook, has been declared off-competition due to her too high level ....

Isi, Hi....

Your wife should appreciate your loyalty. We do, however, invite her to compete in our competition. If we're good enough about this we may make our latkes cook-off as famous as the chile con carne festival in Terralingua, Texas. It's high time that latkes are acknowledged as one of the great gifts of thousands of years of human civilization.

[Gamliel K]

Rogov,

I don’t know how one would define the “post-modern latke,” (perhaps it’s a mixture of potatoes, leeks and zucchini, combined with tapioca flour and eggs, poured into ring molds and baked on a lightly buttered cookie sheet) but I know my latkes are not post-modern. Quite frankly I don’t see how any food that’s deep fried can be considered post-modern.

The whiskey in the recipe, in case my directions were not clear, goes into the latke-maker, not the latkes themselves. I find making latkes a bit tedious, and a bit of whiskey makes the time pass quicker . . . a cooking technique that I believe is common among many Jewish grandmothers (or at least it was among mine.)

As for specifying russet potatoes and vidalia onions, both have rather high sugar contents which leads to richer, more caramelized, latkes. Also I find that grains of paradise has an earthy/nutty note that enhances the flavour of latkes more than mere black pepper. Am I being a bit effete in selecting my ingredients? . . . Absolutely. Will that lead to the best latkes on earth? . . . Without doubt! My frying pan stands at the ready.

(Smiling and) wishing you all the best,
Gamliel

[Daniel Rogov]

And indeed the best back at you!!!! Perhaps this winter, when I make it to the USA we shall be able to arrange this famed cook-off. T'would be a delight. But for me please, not Irish Whiskey but a good slug of slivovitz.

Best
Rogov

[Ian Sutton]

Funny - I made something very much like this from an Italian recipe recently. If I make them again I'll aim for quite small (and as flat as feasible) pancakes as the previous batch came out rather heavy. Maybe the drying helps, or maybe they're just meant to be stodgy!

regards

Ian

[Shlomo R]

But for me please, not Irish Whiskey but a good slug of slivovitz.

At least you were careful about the proper order of your phrasing. Up until this year, I generally found that while a "good slug of slivovitz" could easily be had, a "slug of good slivovitz" was a true rarity. Of course, I speak of the pathetic kosher rotgut generally available in Brooklyn, and I have no wish to malign what must be many good slivovitz's out there. Thankfully, just before Pesach this year, several good slivovitz's arrived on the brooklyn market.

[Daniel Rogov]

Last night (Friday), the gods visited Tel Aviv. Not for any kind of religious purposes and certainly not for reasons of business or politics but because the rumor had spread, oyez, even to Valhalla, that Rogov was preparing latkes.

Well, a bit of an exaggeration, but I did prepare latkes for a group of family and friends last night. Thoroughly enjoyed working over three large, hot, oil-filled skillets for several hours, forming and then frying the latkes until they had attained just the right level of brown crispiness on the exterior while remaining soft and full of flavor on the inside. I must say that the mortals at the table managed to finish them off as soon as they hit the table, some with sour cream, others with applesauce, some with a bit of salt, and others (purists like myself) absolutely naked (the latkes, not the people).

And yes, although I refuse to wear a lobster bib at any time, I do wear a full length apron while working over those frying pans. Best of all, only one blister on one finger from having touched the side of one of the skillets.

Much fun!!!