Tasting Some of the Best of the Golan Heights Winery (K)

[Daniel Rogov]

This late morning and early afternoon I attended a tasting of the Yarden and Katzrin wines of the Golan Heights Winery, the tasting sponsored by the winery and hosted in Jaffa at Ish HaAnavim. As is my wont, I arrived quite early in order to do my own tasting before the arrival of the public, a system I find quite good in avoiding the pitfalls of walk-about tastings with lots of people, aftershave, perspiration and perfume in presence. Gives me the ability to comfortably take a chair and do my tastings in appropriate silence. Also gives me time after my tasting to say hello to and chat with a good many people. My special thanks to Debbie Shoham and her staff from the winery and to Chaim Gan of Ish HaAnavim for their courtesies during my visit.

My tasting notes follow. Not a wine here that I had not tasted at least twice previously, but a very good opportunity to follow the wines as they continue to develop. And better yet, no shocks in store, the wines each developing much as earlier predicted.

Three special notes:

a: At the event the 1996 Katzrin red wine was tasted from a magnum format bottle. On return home I opened a regular format bottle to taste that as well. As a result, two tasting notes for that wine.

b: Immediately following the tasting coffee with Chaim and Debbie and then to stroll to feast on a fine shwarma on a lafa bread, that with nothing more on the bread than a bit of humous, some white cabbage and, of course, a bit of hot sauce.

c: With a tasting like it is no wonder that the Golan Heights Winery remains on my various lists as the very best winery in Israel.


Best
Rogov

Chardonnay

Yarden, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2005: oak in fine balance, now well integrated, Full-bodied, with smoky oak notes in fine balance with fruits. Opens with floral and citrus notes, those going on to tropical fruits and figs, all set off by hints of ginger and, on the long finish, ripe pears. Drink now–2012. Score 91. K

Yarden, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2006: Full-bodied, opening with subtle aromas of figs, pears and apples, going on to show a generous dash of smoky, toasty oak and then blossoming forth with pineapple, summer fruits, citrus peel and minerals leading to a long finish that is simultaneously creamy and bright. Drink now–2013. Score 92. K

Yarden, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2007: Full-bodied, light and shiny golden with a distinct tint of orange that plays in the glass, a wine reflecting generous wood but that in fine proportion to acidity and fruits. Opens with pears, grilled nuts and pie crust notes, those going on to show ripe fig, pineapple and baked apple aromas and flavors. Long and creamy with the oak rising on the finish. Elegance on a grand scale. Meant for cellaring. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2011–2016. Score 92. K

Katzrin, Chardonnay, 2003: Rich, ripe, concentrated and complex with generous layers of figs, tangerines, summer fruits and hazelnuts. Generous but not imposing oak that runs gently throughout making the wine especially elegant, as does a hint of butterscotch that comes in on the long finish. Drink now -2011. Score 92. K

Katzrin, Chardonnay, 2004: Dark golden, casting orange and green reflections, full-bodied and concentrated. Developed in new oak for ten months, notably yeasty on first attack but that yielding beautifully to a buttery, oak-rich texture and opening to reveal nutty, fig, pear, tropical fruits and butterscotch, all on a spicy background. Rich, long and complex. Drink now–2012, perhaps a bit longer.. Score 92. K

Katzrin, Chardonnay, 2005: A creamy and buttery Chardonnay, deep, almost bronzed gold in color and marked from first attack to its long finish with generous toasty oak and hazelnuts. With the oak now starting to settle in, opens slowly on the palate to reveal fig, melon and pear fruits, but those always under the oaky notes. At this stage primarily for those who like a generous dose of oak with their whites. Give this one another year or two, however, and that oak will show itself less to highlight the fruits. Approachable now but best 2011-2014. I will revisit this one several more times. Score 90. K


Cabernet Sauvignon

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001: Full-bodied with finely tuned balance between wood, tannins and fruits. Showing plum, wild berry and spicy currant fruits, and reflecting its 18 months in oak with appealing overlays of vanilla, cedar, tobacco and cocoa. Drink now–2013. Score 91. K

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002: Dark garnet, full-bodied, with once firm tannins and spicy oak now settled in nicely and opening to show aromas of red currants, black cherries and berries on first attack, those giving way to layers of sweet cedar, vanilla, leather, and on the long finish, hints of Mediterranean herbs. Rich, generous and elegant, and drinking beautifully, a wine that has comfortably outwitted the "Curse of 2002". Drink now–2012. Score 92. K

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Aged in French oak for 18 months, the once generous wood influence now comfortably settled in and showing most gently indeed. Soft mouth-coating tannins support generous blackberry, black cherry and plum fruits, and on the long finish, hints of Oriental spices and a light herbal-tobacco sensation. Drink now–2014. Score 93. K

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elrom Vineyard, 2003: Showing as magnificently as it has in the past. Intensely dark ruby toward royal purple, full-bodied, with caressing tannins and a gentle spicy oak influence. Opens with blackcurrants, blackberries and minerals, goes to meaty, earthy and herbal aromas and flavors, and then to spices and a long and elegant fruity finish. Firmly structured with excellent grip and complexity. Continues to show as one of the very best wines ever of the country. Drink now–2020. Score 95. K

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet, with generous wood in fine balance with acidity and fruits. Opens to show currants and crushed berries, those yielding to cranberries and dark chocolate, all on a background of spices, tobacco and earthiness. Drink now–2016. Score 92. K

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elrom Vineyard, 2004: Full-bodied, with still-firm tannins and spicy wood well on the way to integrating and already showing elegance and finesse. Look for layer after layer of currant, blackberry and wild berry fruits, those supported beautifully by notes of cedar, tobacco and tar, all leading to a near-sweet fruity finish that lingers on and on. Drink now–2018. Score 94. K

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Brooding dark ruby red, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and spicy oak wrapped around blackcurrants, berries, spices and a hint of dark chocolate. Look as well for enchanting hints of citrus peel and vanilla on the long finish. Fine balance and structure bode well for the future. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from 2011-2018. Score 92. K

Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Still in its infancy. Deep, youthful royal purple in color, full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and sweet cedar wood integrating nicely. On the nose and palate ripe black and red berries and currants on a background of spicy oak, all touched with hints of spices, vanilla and light mineral-earthy overtones. Approachable now but best 2011-2018. Score 92. K

Merlot

Yarden, Merlot, 2004: Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, generously aromatic, with tannins and spicy wood now integrated nicely and showing a generous array of berry, cassis and plum fruits, those supported by minerals, sweet cedar wood and, rising on the medium-long finish, an overlay of spices and tobacco. Having lost its first blush of youth the wine is drinking nicely now and will cellar comfortably until 2012. Score 90. K

Yarden, Merlot, Ortal Vineyard, 2004: Showing as splendidly as ever! Intensely dark garnet, full-bodied, with once firm tannins and generous spicy wood integrating nicely now. Opens to reveal a tempting array of blackberry, raspberry, plum and cassis fruits, those supported nicely by hints of smoky cedar wood and chocolate, all leading to a gently spicy and notably long finish. Complex, concentrated and elegant. Drink now–2018. Score 93. K

Yarden, Merlot, 2005: Medium- to full-bodied, with spicy wood and firm mouth-coating tannins in fine balance with fruits. A pleasing herbal-earthy mineral nose opens to reveal ripe purple plums and blackcurrants with overlays of smoke and roasted Mediterranean herbs. Long and elegant. Drink now–2014. Score 92. K

Yarden, Merlot, Kela Vineyard (formerly known as Sha’al Vineyard), 2005: An absolute powerhouse at barrel tastings but now with its elements coming together nicely. Rich, intense and concentrated, but already showing fine balance between firm but yielding tannins and generous but well-moderated wood and bold aromas and flavors of plum, currant, blackberry, licorice and spices, all rising to a long tannic and mineral-rich finish. Best 2011–2018. Score 92. K

Yarden, Merlot, Tel Phares Vineyard, 2005: Beautiful from the barrel and at advance tastings but now showing even better. Deep garnet in color with green and purple reflections. Full-bodied, with gently caressing tannins and an abundance of blackberry, violet and lightly toasted oak on first attack, those opening to raspberries, mocha and sweet cedar, all building to a long, deep and succulent finish. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2011-2016, perhaps longer. Score 92. K

Syrah

Yarden, Syrah, 2004: Medium-dark ruby toward garnet, with firm tannins and spicy oak integrated nicely. On the nose and palate a generous array of near-jammy raspberries, blackberries, black cherries and plums, those supported nicely by hints of spices, herbs and a hint of polished leather. Drink now–2013. Score 90. K

Yarden, Syrah, Ortal Vineyard, 2004: Perhaps the best Syrah ever in Israel. Dark ruby towards garnet, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Opens with a burst of almost jammy raspberries and kirsch liqueur, those yielding to blackberry, cherry and plum fruits. In the background generous hints of anise and Oriental spices and a hint of freshly tanned leather. Drink now–2018. Score 94. K

Yarden, Syrah, 2005: Garnet toward inky-black, full-bodied, with spicy oak and generous soft tannins, showing fine structure and balance and happily avoiding being a blockbuster in favor of elegance. Opens with raspberry and red currant notes, those going on to show generous hints of black pepper, anise and wild berries all coming to a long and generous chocolate and smoky finish. Drink from release–2014. Score 91. K

[/u]Katzrin[/u]

Katzrin, 1996: (Tasted from 750 ml. bottle) Vibrant and complex, with an array of aromas and flavors that include currants, cherries and plums overlaid by smoky oak, chocolate, spices and tobacco.With its once firm tannins and smoky wood integrating nicely now, this full-bodied, red is now fully revealing its charms. Excellent integration between fruit, tannins and oak indicates that the wine will continue to develop beautifully. Drink now–2015. Score 93. K

Katzrin, 1996: (Tasted from magnum format bottle). Now thirteen years after harvest (in its bar-mitzvah year if you like), and still remarkably young. Dark garnet with still youthful royal purple notes, full-bodied, with gently gripping tannins and wood (at one moment smoky, at another spicy, at yet near-sweet) integrating nicely, opens beautifully in the glass to show blackcurrant, blackberry, cherry and plum fruits, those on a background of bitter-sweet chocolate and cigar tobacco. With no humor intended, drink now if you like your wines on the youthful side but don't hesitate to cellar in large format bottles until 2022. Score 93. K

Katzrin, 2000: A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Showing beautifully now, its blackberry, cherry and currant fruits supported by spicy oak, notes of cigar tobacco and hints of freshly turned earth. Dense, deep and intense, with finely tuned balance and structure, a simultaneously bold and elegant wine. Drink now–2015. Score 92. K

Katzrin, 2004: Aged in new French barriques for 18 months, 94% Cabernet Sauvignon with the addition of 6% Merlot. Dark garnet toward royal purple, with orange and violet reflections. Shows still generous oak and firm tannins, those in fine proportion and well balanced by blackberry, blackcurrant and cherry fruits, on a background of white pepper, Mediterranean herbs and tobacco, and, on the long and generous finish, hints of vanilla and peppermint. Approachable now, but best 2011–2018, perhaps longer. Score 93. K

[Jon B Jacobs]

Very nice notes indeed. No Katzrin 2003?

-- Jonathan

[Daniel Rogov]

Jon, Hi.....

The 2003 was not offered for tasting at the event. No fear, however, I have quite a few more in my cellar and they will be tasted periodically. Following is my most recent tasting note, that from just about eight months ago)

Best
Rogov


Katzrin, 2003: Dark garnet, a full-bodied blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, with gently mouth-coating tannins and smoky oak integrating nicely. Shows layers of blackcurrant, black cherry and berry fruits, those yielding and coming together with peppery and herbal aromas and flavors culminating in a long blueberry and white chocolate finish. Drink now–2018. Score 93. K

[Rani Osnat]

Rogov, I was there later in the afternoon, it was a bit crowded but I only smelled perfume once... !

I didn't take notes and certainly didn't score, but I also found the Elroms better than the Katzrins as a whole, and the 2003 Elrom was my wine of the tasting. Contrary to the order on the tasting sheets, I tasted the regular bottling and Elroms from the same vintage one after the other, and the step up in quality was evident ("totally different league" evident).
I also found the regular Cabs solid though not exciting, and would score them lower as a whole.

The 1996 Katzrin from magnum was ultimately disappointing. The nose was interesting, very herbal (which I don't see in your notes), almost in a St. Estephe style, but on the palate it was well beyond in age against what the nose predicted, and if I compare it to Bordeaux or age-worthy Californians, which I believe is a valid comparison, then it tasted like counterparts that are 8-10 years older - and this from magnum. Interestingly, I've had regular Yarden Cab 1995 bottlles that were better. It's possible of course, and even probable, that we did not taste out of the same magnum and there is some bottle variation here. The 2000 was good but if I had any more bottles (which I don't), I'd be thinking of drinking them rather soon. 2004 on the other hand has a long life ahead of it.

Among the Merlots, I found the Ortal a little heavy (those chocolate and cassis notes), which is consistent with my past impressions and not my favorite style. However I really liked the Kela, as it was much fresher and brighter. The Tel Phares Merlot I found too alcoholic and disjointed and I don't think it's in the same class, at least not the 2005.

The Ortal Syrah was indeed a very pleasant surprise. I found it quite elegant and supple, and though it clearly had ample dark fruit, it was very well integrated and a pleasure to drink now. More Northern Rhone style than Barossa, for sure.

The part of the tasting I enjoyed the least were the whites, which without exception I found too oaked for their own good. The 2003 Katzrin Chard, which I was hoping would show better integration and prove me wrong (or demonstrate that the wines need time to settle down) was already showing signs of oxidation to my palate (which may or may not be those notes of butterscotch you mentioned). I realize these wines are in line style-wise with some very high scoring, highly sought after Chardonnays from California for instance, but I've never liked those either... let's call it a personal preference...

So, to sum up, my faves:
2003 Elrom Cabernet
2005 Kela Merlot
2004 Ortal Syrah

It's also worth mentioning that the latter two are quite fairly priced (145 NIS) which, compared with other top Israeli wines, makes them relative bargains.

[Lior Yogev]

Thanks for the notes.
Rani, regarding your impression on the difference between the cab and the El-Rom cab, I wanted to add that on a time scale these differences become even more pronounced.

Lior.

[Alek W]

Among the Merlots, I found the Ortal a little heavy (those chocolate and cassis notes), which is consistent with my past impressions and not my favorite style. However I really liked the Kela, as it was much fresher and brighter. The Tel Phares Merlot I found too alcoholic and disjointed and I don't think it's in the same class, at least not the 2005.

Rani, could you please compare with regular Merlot 2005?

Thanks,

Alek.

[Rani Osnat]

Among the Merlots, I found the Ortal a little heavy (those chocolate and cassis notes), which is consistent with my past impressions and not my favorite style. However I really liked the Kela, as it was much fresher and brighter. The Tel Phares Merlot I found too alcoholic and disjointed and I don't think it's in the same class, at least not the 2005.

Rani, could you please compare with regular Merlot 2005?

Thanks,

Alek.

It was OK, but a little lacking in acidity to my palate. Though I did prefer it to the overdone Tel Phares - it's more drinkable.

[Allen S]

I tasted the 2005 Katzrin Chardonnay recently and found it to be much more enjoyable than when I tasted it about a year ago. The oak had integrated and the fruit was really shining. Then I do a little forum search and find this...

posted in August:

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Katzrin, 2005: A creamy and buttery Chardonnay, deep, almost bronzed gold in color and marked from first attack to its long finish with super-generous toasty oak and hazelnuts. Opens slowly on the palate to reveal fig, melon and pear fruits, but those always under the oaky notes. A good wine, but not up to the Katzrin standards and mostly for those who can take the intense oak. Drink now–2012. Score 88. K

posted in September:

Katzrin, Chardonnay, 2005: A creamy and buttery Chardonnay, deep, almost bronzed gold in color and marked from first attack to its long finish with generous toasty oak and hazelnuts. With the oak now starting to settle in, opens slowly on the palate to reveal fig, melon and pear fruits, but those always under the oaky notes. At this stage primarily for those who like a generous dose of oak with their whites. Give this one another year or two, however, and that oak will show itself less to highlight the fruits. Approachable now but best 2011-2014. I will revisit this one several more times. Score 90. K

I'm curious if you've tasted the wine since September, and how you think it's progressing.

In any event, I have a new level of faith in GHW and am more confident now that the 2007 Odem chardonnay will integrate its oak and acid.

Thanks,
Allen

[Daniel Rogov]

Allen, Hi....

I have tasted the wine in question twice in formal tastings since then and on two or three (memory fails at the moment) occasions have consumed it at restaurants with meals. My most recent tasting note (from September) holds nicely.

Best
Rogov