Having in mind Antoine Gerbelle’s comments about Vincent Dauvissat’s wines’ providing organic typicity, I reached for this bottle only to discover that, though in the course of conversion to biodynamics, the estate is still not “officially” organic. But so excellent is this wine as an example of Chablis’ being my ideal expression of Chardonnay that I post my TN here nevertheless.
C: Yellow with slight green tints.
N: Quite discreet but a lovely combination of white flowers and white fruit (including citrus) with flinty minerals.
P: Very dry, medium/light bodied but perfectly balanced and focused with its aromas and fruit similar to the nose, bracing acidity, tension, and minerality tempered by the right amount of depth and “gras” and a firm gently bitter and saline finish; 17/20++.
I did not detect the “typically organic” light “fortifying” oxidative touch which Gerbelle claims to find but on the other hand the allegedly “typical” salinity was there.
Bettane/Desseauve, in their authoritative annual Grand Guide, recommend some ageing to bring out the best in this estate’s wines but I have read reports of poxed bottles of 2002, I think. Prudence indicates drinking up quickly; no hardship there
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