WTN: Volnay-Santenots from Comtes Lafon

[Tim York]

Volnay-Santenots-du-Milieu- Volnay 1er cru - 1997 - Domaine des Comtes Lafon - Alc. 13.5%

This estate only obtained full AB certification from the 1998 vintage but I feel justified in including this wine because they applied for the certificate in 1995, so were undoubtedly then applying organic methods, and they now claim to be fully biodynamic - http://www.comtes-lafon.fr/domaine_eng/viticulture.htm .

C: Medium ruby with little sign of bricking.
N: Quite subdued initially but nice cherry touches.
P: Smooth and well shaped with medium body, slightly sweet and satisfying Burgundian fruit and moderate acidity with little secondary development and some structural tannic support, albeit a bit drying, on the finish. A good and elegant Burgundy but I had been expecting more bloom and I think that it may be on the downward slope; this is probably a function of the 1997 vintage, which I like more than many do, rather than of organic agriculture; 16/20+.

Again I can't say that I can identify any organic typicity. However, I have located an interesting article in the RVF about the taste of organic wines which I will endeavour to summarise in the next day or two.

[Bob Parsons Alberta]

Tim, your post mentions some interesting points. Secondary developement can sometimes be quite a pleasure I think.
Drying I sometimes worry about. Can the wine be on the downturn?
This Volnay Santenay is a wine I have not encountered over here in the colony!
As usual, just a few thoughts.

[Bob Parsons Alberta]

Tim, a further installment of CK`s Burgundy write-up.

http://www.thewinedoctor.com/regionalgu ... rt07.shtml

[David M. Bueker]

The 1997s are in a tough spot right now, with some seeming to die a premature death while others are showing very well (had a delicious Jadot Clos de Beze about a month ago).

As for "organic typicity" I don't quite understand what you might be looking for. Wouldn't respectful viticulture bring more terroir typicity?

[Hoke]

I agree, David. Still have a couple of the Hospice 1997s and they are, as you say, stuck in a tough spot.

I'm not optimistic what I have will get any better, but at least they haven't totally lost their fruit. I'd characterize them as rather sullen and unresponsive to my pleas to open up a little. Still and all though, red burgs never cease to surprise me with how each bottle will show at any given moment.

Guess my attraction for those burgs is like my attraction to Linda Fiorentino. You know she'll probably end up breaking your heart (if not wrecking your life) but you can't resist getting all tangled up with her if you have the chance.

[Tom Troiano]

I've had 4-6 vintages of this wine and never been wowed. They make you buy it to get the highly desirable whites. That should tell you something.


Comtes Lafon 2006 Assorted 5-pack
$525 net for 5 750ml bottles
This includes 1 bottle Meursault Charmes, 2 bottles Meursault Clos de la Barre, and 2 bottles of Volnay Santenots du Milieu.