The Etruscan museum has greatly improved since ten years ago, Charles. The town itself is still quite charming with that fantastic statue in the town square.
I like Ian's suggestion of buying bread, cheese and wine and having a picnic walking in the Cinqueterre area. I added a couple of wines from the area to my life list, but found nothing remarkable.
An hour west toward Genoa I can recommend Grand Hotel dei Castelli for lunch or dinner. The grounds are lovely and Sestri Levante is a charming town.
Oh, an off beat book makes a great companion in Tuscany: Matthew Spender, Within Tuscany
, an interesting survey of various parts of Tuscany by an English artistic hippie exploring various aspects of Tuscany: Michelangelo quarry, Michelangelo’s sculpting techniques, a village band, romance, and much more. The reviews at
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/014017 ... e&n=283155
will give you an idea of how good the book is. Spender focuses on details -- it's not a guide book, but more a guide to the sense of Tuscany. I really enjoyed dipping into it for a few minutes at a time.