Moderators: Jenise, Robin Garr, David M. Bueker
Mark Lipton wrote:Fascinating, Tim. Thank you for posting this. What are your thoughts on the proposals? My own follow:
2. The replacement of VdP with "vins de Territoire" and the elimination of many ACs strikes me as problematic. Will consumers be better served by a "Côtes de Bordeaux" designation than a "Côte de Castillon"? It may increase name recognition for the masses, but it also blurs real distinctions in terroir.
3. I love the name "vins de terroir" and the overhaul of the reviewing committees sounds promising to me, but I wonder if those same reforms might not lead to lessening the importance of terroir. Will those respected enologists et al prize "typicité" as much as the present committees do? Granted, that same notion leads to ludicrous decisions, such as rejecting wines made from lower yields in the Languedoc, but I fear that e.g. barrique-aged Muscadet might impress a committee of journalists and wine merchants more than it would local vignerons.
Mark Lipton wrote:Fascinating, Tim. Thank you for posting this. What are your thoughts on the proposals? My own follow:
1. The addition of vintage to VdT is a no-brainer and long overdue
2. The replacement of VdP with "vins de Territoire" and the elimination of many ACs strikes me as problematic. Will consumers be better served by a "Côtes de Bordeaux" designation than a "Côte de Castillon"? It may increase name recognition for the masses, but it also blurs real distinctions in terroir.
3. I love the name "vins de terroir" and the overhaul of the reviewing committees sounds promising to me, but I wonder if those same reforms might not lead to lessening the importance of terroir. Will those respected enologists et al prize "typicité" as much as the present committees do? Granted, that same notion leads to ludicrous decisions, such as rejecting wines made from lower yields in the Languedoc, but I fear that e.g. barrique-aged Muscadet might impress a committee of journalists and wine merchants more than it would local vignerons.
Mark Lipton
wnissen wrote:Look at the one region of France that has succeeded in making itself a real brand: Champagne. There's exactly one appellation, nearly universal high-quality, and what do you know, it sells for around US$30-40 a bottle. In the U.S., for all practical purposes, Champagne is Veuve Clicquot is the "yellow" label, and it sells like hotcakes.
Applying this to France as a whole, probably you would want to get rid of 90% of the appellations, and make them "subtitles" like Bordeaux is starting to do.
Bill Hooper wrote:I'm not so sure if having LVMH oversee the process doesn't present a conflict of interest though! How about if we let Ford set the standards of fuel-economy and safety regulations for automobiles in the US?
On balance, I think that Bénard's business experience will be beneficial in piloting this reform. French media seem to be becoming much more vigilant in monitoring potential conflicts of interest.
Steve Slatcher
Wine guru
1047
Sat Aug 19, 2006 11:51 am
Manchester, England
Steve Slatcher wrote:Unbelievable! The French are planning to have three categories, the initials of all three are VdT, and two of them differ by only one syllable (just the middle "t" in rapid English speech, and possibly in French too).
AlexR wrote:No matter what I do:
- bold
- underline
- quote
it NEVER comes out right on this forum
<sigh>
Tim York wrote:The March number of la Revue du Vin de France (“RVF”) contains a rather turgid article on the reform of French wine rules in the context of new European regulations. I extract below the main points.
A three tier system of appellations will be put in place. ...
Robin Garr wrote:Tim York wrote:The March number of la Revue du Vin de France (“RVF”) contains a rather turgid article on the reform of French wine rules in the context of new European regulations. I extract below the main points.
A three tier system of appellations will be put in place. ...
Excellent report, Tim ... thanks for the report and the translation. Assuming you don't object, I might summarize it yet further in today's Wine Advisor, linking to this thread.
Tim York wrote:It is a précis of its main points in my own words.
Dale Williams
Compassionate Connoisseur
11173
Tue Mar 21, 2006 4:32 pm
Dobbs Ferry, NY (NYC metro)
David M. Bueker
Riesling Guru
34424
Thu Mar 23, 2006 11:52 am
Connecticut
AlexR wrote:However, there is no way that a new appellation (or "son-of-appellation") would ever wipe out the geographic indication of origin of Côtes de Blaye, for instance.
There would be blood running in the streets if anyone ever tried to impose this.
Hey, this is France...
wnissen wrote:Look at the one region of France that has succeeded in making itself a real brand: Champagne. There's exactly one appellation, nearly universal high-quality, and what do you know, it sells for around US$30-40 a bottle. In the U.S., for all practical purposes, Champagne is Veuve Clicquot is the "yellow" label, and it sells like hotcakes.
Jon Peterson
The Court Winer
2981
Sat Apr 08, 2006 5:53 pm
The Blue Crab State
Keith M
Beer Explorer
1184
Sat Jan 06, 2007 2:25 am
Finger Lakes, New York
Robin Garr wrote:"Now, let's have a short-form look at that obscure French village. While I don't know of specific plans for Macon La Roche Vineuse, it's the type of tiny, obscure appellation that seems likely to disappear under the new regulatory system."
"If La Roche Vineuse were to disappear into a broad "Macon" or even broader "Bourgogne" appellation, would producer Alain Normand continue to hand-craft this crisp, defined and minerally Chardonnay that surely speaks with an accent unique to "the vinous rock"? Or would the necessities of the marketplace ensure that this fine wine eventually ends up as part of an anonymous blend?"
"I'd like to believe that passionate artisans like Normand would stay the course, counting on his name and reputation to sell the wine to a small but devoted audience. But who knows? While the big French producers are likely secure in their reputations even through a storm of change, you have to wonder how the small, less-known properties will fare."
Keith M wrote:So "small, less-known properties" depend on a "tiny, obscure appellation" to sell their wines? Could anyone explain to me why this would be so? It seems like a curious argument . . .
Robin Garr wrote:Keith M wrote:So "small, less-known properties" depend on a "tiny, obscure appellation" to sell their wines? Could anyone explain to me why this would be so? It seems like a curious argument . . .
In my opinion, it's because a niche market exists for small-production, artisanal producers. Importers like Dressner and Solomon feed retailers like Chambers Street who serve a relatively small audience of wine geeks like us. It's not a very big sector of the overall wine market - there are an awful lot of Kendall-Jackson, Rosemount and Duboeuf drinkers out there - but the producers don't make that much wine, so they've found their level.
I'm speculating - and only speculating - that the loss of a distinguishing label would weaken this niche over time, just as the world domination of Starbucks eventually starts hurting the business of local artisan coffee roasters.
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