This line from the article pretty well says it for me.
On a larger scale, the trend emphasizes the worst of the food frenzy today: the celebration of celebrity and novelty over authenticity and seriousness
Someone once said something about child performers to the effect that the wonder of it is not that they are doing it well: it is that they are doing it at all. Children as chefs seems to be another manifestation of the same. Do child chefs have "Kitchen mothers" the same way child performers have "Stage mothers"?