Culinary Poll #23: Poor Man's Asparagus

[Daniel Rogov]

For many years the leek has been relegated in France to a distinctly second-class status, often known as "the poor man's asparagus". What thinkest we of the "humble" leek?

[Shel T]

Voted for having a place on my table, and inf fact like them a lot and use them often.

[Ian Sutton]

Yep, regular usage here as a veggie. Very nice with wild mushrooms and tarragon.

I'm growing into asparagus - never used to like it, but some good local farms make a much better product than that the supermarkets put out.

[Robin Garr]

I love leeks but have never understood how anyone could liken them to asparagus. Two entirely different vegetables, it seems to me. Better to liken them to onions?

[Daniel Rogov]

I love leeks but have never understood how anyone could liken them to asparagus. Two entirely different vegetables, it seems to me. Better to liken them to onions?

Indeed Robin, two vastly different vegetables but the reputation came about because both can be used, almost interchangeably in similar recipes - e.g. au vinaigrette, in potato-based soups, in a variety of stews, in making quiches... That leeks are just about the least expensive of vegetables in France (often costing even less than potatoes) helped in earning that entitlement...

Historically, during the bloodier parts of the French revolution, no-one dared to buy asparagus as those had become associated with the aristocracy. Leeks became the subsitute of choice. A better option, perhaps even today, in the hearts of French men and women than the guillotine. From both the historical and literary point of view, let us also keep in mind that Marquis de Sade who felt that "asparagus are more elegant but leeks make a better fit".

Best
Rogov

[Matilda L]

An excellent vegetable for soups - they provide the savoury tang of the onion with a silky texture all their own. I like to use them in casseroles and stews, too, for the same reason: they incorporate beautifully into the sauce. I've never been very successful at using them as a vegetable in their own right, though - any suggestions for preparation welcome.

Matilda

[Jo Ann Henderson]

I think of leeks as a member of the onion family. But, I never think to use them unless they are called for in a recipe. And, I never substitute them. I guess I kind of see leeks like my neighbors. I know they're there, and they are perfectly likeable, but I have no great urge to become familiar with them.

[Stuart Yaniger]

I haven't run into this prejudice in France, though admittedly I spent most of my time there in the country. One of the best leek dishes I ever had was at the Pyramide.

Maybe it's just a Paris thing?

[Patti L]

I took option #1. In fact I just had them last night sauteed with fresh tarragon. I also like to roast them with brussel sprouts and tarragon. They have a nice subtle flavor.

[Daniel Rogov]

Stuart, Hi.....

Actually a well established attitude throughout the country and extending even to French Switzerland. Years ago, I invited a very important professor from the University of Geneva to dine at my then little flat in that good city. I was a young man and quite enthusiastic and in his honor we prepared a leek soup. The noted man and his wife showed up, took one look at the soup and burst into giggles, he explaining to me in the friendliest of manners how: (a) only a non-Frenchman would serve leek soup to an obviously honored guest; (b) not to fear for that was one of their favorite dishes; and (c) how the French and Swiss were snobs at any rate. I do recall that they ate the soup with gusto before we went on to the langoustines.

I believe that you are quite correct though in that the leek has attained a higher level of acceptance in the last twenty or so years, that due largelly to the efforts of chefs such as Paul Bocuse, Guy Savoy and Alain Ducasse.

Best
Rogov

[Robin Garr]

Indeed Robin, two vastly different vegetables but ...

Most excellent cultural and culinary history, sir. Thanks!

Didn't ancient Welsh warriors wear leeks pinned to their mail in battles with the Saxons? Asparagus would make a very poor badge, it seems to me ...

[Daniel Rogov]

"Sir"? "Sir"? Ye gods, man.... what did I do to earn such an insult?

I like to think that when I enter a room full of winemakers or chefs those within earshot say "Wow....here's Daniel Rogov" while those out of earshot mumble "Oh boy....its that s.o.b. again".

Keep on truckin'

Best
Rogov

P.S. As to Welsh soldiers and the leek, still the national emblem of Wales, see a thoughtful history at http://www.historic-uk.com/HistoryUK/Wa ... heLeek.htm

[Dave R]

I have never substituted a leek for an asparagus and have also never substituted an asparagus for a leek. I find them to be quite different. But then again, I am not French.

[Daniel Rogov]

Dave, Hi....

No requirement to do so, but next time you do a vichyssoisse, consider using asparagus instead of leeks. Not at all a traditional vichyssoisse but a marvelous soup, especially when sipped with a fine LHV Port wine.

Best
Rogov

[David Scop]

I do not like asparagus at all, but love leeks in: pan fried chicken, clay pot chicken, does it pair well with meat as well?

[Shlomo R]

I grew up hearing my father quote the Galloping Gourmet as saying "In order to make a great soup, first you take a leek."


I like leeks.

[Bill Spohn]

I have often been known to take a leek or two (especially after a long tasting session!).

I have leeks with hazelnuts on my menu for this coming weekend as a matter of fact.

[Jenise]

Other than their elongated shapes, I see no similarity between leeks and asparagus at all. The affinity is a different manner, but just good in the way most vegetables are good or better when blended with a member of the onion family. That said, in my opinion, a leek meets it's best fate when lightly sauteed and then built into a mousse to be served warm as a bed for smoked fish like trout or salmon and served with a good burgundy. It's a wine/food match from heaven.

[Matilda L]

leeks with hazelnuts

Bill, how do you prepare that?

[Bill Spohn]

leeks with hazelnuts

Bill, how do you prepare that?

Boil the leeks about 20 minutes until tender, put in cold water.

Toast hazelnuts.

Fry up some bacon cut into lardons, then deglaze with vinegar, add cream and simmer, S&P, add bacon and nuts, and spoon around the cold leek (one on a plate).

For some reason we tend not to serve a veg on its own as a course in North America, but as a summer dish this is simple and tasty (I'm going to be serving it as a side to some stuffed quail, but also like it on its own)

[Leanne S]

I guess I've never attempted to make leeks on their own as a vegetable. They're onions to me. But I do cook with them a lot, because they grow locally and show up in the farmers' market and my CSA box.

[Daniel Rogov]

With only a few exceptions we seem to be of one voice this week. I will certainly go along with that voice as leeks are among my favorite of vegetables, as appropriate in soups, as first courses, or as side dishes to accompany a main course. Perhaps my personal favorite is the leek quiche.

Best
Rogov

[Carrie L.]

I think of leeks as a member of the onion family. But, I never think to use them unless they are called for in a recipe. And, I never substitute them. I guess I kind of see leeks like my neighbors. I know they're there, and they are perfectly likeable, but I have no great urge to become familiar with them.

Well said, Jo Ann!
My feelings exactly.

[Robin Garr]

"Sir"? "Sir"? Ye gods, man.... what did I do to earn such an insult?

Mere irony and a sense of fun, young man ...