Sylvester at Moul Yam and Catit (The Continuation)

[Daniel Rogov]

Well, the Sylvester menus are out – not only for the Moul Yam dinner (discussed earlier at viewtopic.php?f=30&t=20479&p=176140 )but also for that at Catit, indeed two of the best restaurants in the country. First the menus and then my comments (and believe me, please I have some comments)


Moul Yam

Cepe Mushrooms and Shrimps
Carpaccio of Grouper with Gold Leaves
Cappucino of Salsify with Oysters and Russian Caviar
Salad of Blue Crabs and Porcini Mushrooms
Salad of Baby Calamari in Coffee Oil

A Faberge of Goose Liver

Langoustine Raviolis in Tomato Consommé

Bresse Grouse with Perigord Truffles

Bretagne Langoustes in a Sauce of Popcorn

Fillet of Brill with a Cluster of Parsley in Aromatic Oils

A Duet of Japanese Kobe beef

Mandarin Gnocchi in a Citrus Consomme
Variations on the theme of Crepes Suzette
Pralines
Petits Fours

Price NIS 800. Wine and Service Not Included



Catit

The entire meal will be accompanied by free pouring of Louis Roederer Brut Champagne.

Seared Coquilles St Jacques on Tarragon Cream with Grilled Endives, Citrus Vinaigrette, and Caviar with a Sea Water Foam

Red Tuna Sashimi and Oysters with a Parlsey Jelly, Green Ful Beans, Boiled Artichokes, Tomatoes, and Eggplant with a Basil Vinaigrette

Goose Liver Grilled over Citrus Charcoals, with Lobster Meat, Chestnuts and Brandy Cream with a Cardamom Foam

Grilled Sweetbreads on a Cream of Green Ful Beans, Served with Parmesan Raviolis with a Raw Egg Yolk in a Tarragon Flavored Veal Stock

Wild Fillet (Undefined) Poached in Butter and Chicken Stock with Turnip, Artichoke, Green Beans and Fresh Truffles served in a Sauce of White Butter and Tonka

Sorbet of Gin and Tonic with a Cucujber Jelly, Green Olives and Chili

Grilled Lamb Fillet With Winter Vegetables, Tortellini of Garlic and Parsley Served in the Natural Juices of the Lamb, Olive Oil and Za'atar

A Platter of Boutique Cheeses

Strawberries with Crème Fraiche,
Chardonnay-Lemon Grass Sorbet
Vanilla Crumble
A Variation on Valrona Chocolate includings Brownies and Bannas in Caramel, Cinnamoned Jelly, a "Shot" of Popcorn, and a Chocolate Sorbet

Only on 31 December. First sitting (18:30-21:15) NIS 750 per person
Second Sitting, NIS 890 per person
Sitting on the Bar NIS 700 per person
Prices Include the Champagne poured during the meal


As to comments – first of all, let us be aware that we are talking about two of the best restaurants and two of the most talented chefs in the country. Whatever objections I may have are therefore not so much related to price or to the quality of the dishes that are going to be offered. In fact, I am quite certain that nearly every dish will be as close to perfection as is possible to attain.

I do, however, have several problems with both of these meals. On the earlier thread, several used the term "conspicuous consumption". I'll go even further than that in stating that stating that if I could order a la carte from any three of the dishes offered by either restaurant, I would be quite content, in fact as happy as the proverbial pig in a poke. Taken all together however, I cannot help but feel that by the end of the meal one's palate, stomach and intestines will be little more than a thoroughly confused mismash of flavors and aromas. Not only conspicuous consumption but, in my opinion, "overkill". And overkill, again in my opinion, is not in good taste.

Perhaps this is what some people want. If that is the case, power to them, and I most sincerely hope they enjoy not only the eating but the boasting they will later do about their meals. I cannot help but feel, however, that fine dining has little to do with excess and even less to do with boasting. Also not to misunderstand – I intend to continue returning to both of these superb restaurants on a fairly regular basis. Just not for these meals.

For the record, my own New Year's Eve dinner will, as is my wont, be taken at home. Tentative schedule for the dinner – shrimp bisque, cassoulet de Castelnaudary, and a pear and almond Tarte.

[Shel T]

Reading the menus, agree completely about clash of flavors and textures.
Re what you're doing, are you cooking the cassoulet and taking the traditional 2 or 3 days to do it?

[Daniel Rogov]

Shel, Hi.....

The recipe I use is adapted from one by the Roux brothers and calls for a total of a mere 8-9 hours cooking.


Best
Rogov

[Shel T]

Shel, Hi.....

The recipe I use is adapted from one by the Roux brothers and calls for a total of a mere 8-9 hours cooking.


Best
Rogov

Daniel, I've dined at both Le Gavroche and the Waterside Inn, but never had the cassoulet. Any chance of posting your adapted recipe?

[Daniel Rogov]

Shel, Hi.....

Following is my adaptation of the recipe. The cooking time discussed in my earlier note includes that for the confit de canard for which a specific recipe is not included. Should you need one, just ask.

Best
Rogov


Cassoulet


1 1/2 kilos small dried white haricot beans
1 kilo knockwurst style sausages
300 - 400 grams Virginia, Kentucky or Proscuitto ham, in one piece
400 grams bacon, in one piece
300 grams sharp, hard, Italian style salami
200 grams carrots, peeled
200 grams onions, peeled and halved
1 bouquet garni made by tying together 6 sprigs of thyme, 2 sprigs rosemary and 2 bay leaves
2 whole cloves
4 cloves garlic
10 peppercorns, crushed coarsely
1 kilo of smoked goose breast, with fat intact, cut into large chunks
2 preserved goose legs (confit de canard), optional
1 kilo fatty lamb, cut into 8 - 10 pieces
300 grams tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped
60 gr. dried white breadcrumbs

Soak the beans overnight in cold water.

In a large pot place the knockwurst, the ham, the bacon and the Italian sausage. Cover with cold water and bring to the boil. As soon as the water boils, lift out the sausages and ham with a slotted spoon and place them in cold water. Let the bacon cook for 4 - 5 minutes longer and then transfer to cold water. Drain the meats and cut the bacon and raw ham into thick slices.

Drain the beans and place them in a large round iron, copper or flameproof earthenware casserole dish. Cover the beans with cold, unsalted water and then add the carrots, onions, bouquet garni, cloves, three of the garlic cloves and the peppercorns. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer very gently, skimming the surface as necessary.
Cut about 3 Tbsp. of fat from the smoked goose breast and heat the fat in a heavy skillet. In this quickly brown the lamb pieces, and then drain, discarding the fat.

When the beans have been cooking for 1 hour add the tomatoes and bacon. Add boiling water if necessary, making sure the beans are covered with liquid. After another 1/2 hour put in the lamb and continue to cook, skimming the surface from time to time. After another hour, add the remaining ingredients and then lower the flame, simmering for 30 minutes longer. If you are using the goose confit, add shred the meat and force the pieces into the center of the casserole and then simmer for 10 minutes longer.

Taste the beans, to see whether they need salt (which will probably not be necessary) and discard the bouquet garni, carrots and onions. Crush the remaining garlic clove and add to the mixture. Spread the breadcrumbs evenly on the top of the dish and transfer to an oven that has been heated to 150 degrees Celsius (300 Fahrenheit) for 45 minutes. Serve hot, directly from the casserole dish. (Serves 8 - 10).

[Shel T]

Thanks Daniel, will try it that way next time and think that time coming soon as by the calendar I see we're having winter in L.A.!