Going to Hell on Roller Skates: Sylvester at Moul Yam

[Daniel Rogov]

Some say that the world economic situation is already out-and-out catastrophic; others say that we haven't even begun to see the worst. Reflecting on restaurants, some are predicting doomsday and others are saying that it will be so bad that the four horsemen of the apocalypse will appear charming in retrospect. Whatever….Sylvester, the celebration of the onset of the New Year comes but once a year, comes but once a year and perhaps that's as good a time to go to hell on roller skates as any. And what better way to go to hell than with a Sylvester meal at Tel Aviv's Moul Yam, certainly one of the very best restaurants in the country since it opened 14 years ago.

The meal, which will be of seven courses followed by three desserts will contain, among other things Perigord truffles, wild game hens from Burgundy, langoustines from La Manche, girolle mushrooms, and kobe veal from Japan. Fabulous ingredients, and the meal will be held on two occasions: New Year's Eve (Wednesday, 31 December) and New Year's Day (Thursday 1 January).

As to price – NIS 800 per person (about US$200) that including mineral water and coffee but not including cocktails, wine or service. My guess is that the restaurant will be packed, this proving that at least a certain percentage of the population isn't all that worried about the availability of cash. Places are limited and reservations must be made in advance. For further information or to make reservations phone 03 5469920 or send an email to info@mulyam.com

As to wines, I do not have the precise menu but would suggest considering accompanying the entire meal with Krug Champagne. If that is not appealing, start off with the Krug, make our way to a red from the Hospice de Beaune, then onto the Chateau Petrus and closing of course with a fine Sauternes (may I be bold enough to suggest the 2001 of Chateau d'Yquem?)

In all seriousness, I cannot help but think that chef Yoram Nitzan and his staff are going to do an absolutely splendid job and that regardless of price, this will be a great and memorable meal.

Best
Rogov

[Isi M]

I would rather go to the Chloelise

600 nis per person (wine INCLUDED)

Personally I prefer the food here than at Mul Yam (with all respect to Mul Yam, but this is my personal taste)

[Mike_F]

will contain, among other things Perigord truffles, wild game hens from Burgundy, langoustines from La Manche, girolle mushrooms, and kobe veal from Japan

Fabulous ingredients indeed, but lumping them all into one meal at the specified price and conditions makes this more of an exhibition of conspicuous consumption than a gastronomic experience IMVHO.

On the few occasions that I passed by Moul Yam in recent months it has been very empty. Perhaps one of the motivation for this extravaganza?

Mike

[Daniel Rogov]

Mike, Hi....

I have always had a warm spot in my heart for Thorstein Veblen since I first read about his concept of conspicuous consumption in his late 19th century book - The Theory of the Leisure Class. As appropriate reading today as it was then.

Best
Rogov

[Trevor F]

I agree with Mike - conspicuous consumption given that a significant amount of the population in Israel and elsewhere currently have severe personal financial difficulties.

As for us, we might find a budget flight to Italy between Xmas and New Year or failing that open some of the 1999 and 2000 Pauillac that I've bought at knockdown prices in Belgium.

I suspect the place would be half full at best

BTW -- where's La Manche ?

[Daniel Rogov]

Trevor, Hi....

Make you a deal....I'll bet you let's say 50 Euros (or, if you prefer 50 pounds Sterling) that the restaurant will be booked solid on both nights.

Conspicuous consumption perhaps, but that more because of the complex and perhaps somewhat exaggerated set of ingredients than the price. And let us keep in mind that consumption of certain luxury goods goes up and now down during times of recession and even depression. And yes, even during wartime. Perhaps reflecting a kind of "live today for tomorrow we may be broke" phenomenon or perhaps a need to show that one is still "alive" in bad times. The restaurants, cafes and nightclubs of Berlin never had it better than during the days of the intensive Allied bombing of that city; during the days of missile attacks on Tel Aviv via Iran the restaurants and cafes all filled up after the first missile had fallen each day; and, of course, some of New York City's best restaurants had their heyday during the height of the Great Depression.

As to La Manche, I believe that refers to what you British call "The English Channel", more specifically to the oyster and langoustine beds found on the French side.

Let me know if you'll take me up on the little wager that I have proposed.

Best
Rogov

[Trevor F]

Make it 50 Euro then as the pound amount is less ( just ).

Once or twice a year I am approached by an Israeli charity, Me'ir Panim , soliciting donations for soup kitchens in Israel where 20% or 25% or whatever of the population cannot afford to eat properly, so they tell me. Perhaps some of those punters going to spend NIS 800 per head could donate to Meir Panim, or Mul Yam could donate some of their profits. It's like those General Motors wallahs flying to Washington in their corporate jets begging for government money to bail them out.

50 Euros goes to Meir Panim. OK ?

See http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/7763172.stm and allow for some journalistic licence

BTW the origin of things like langoustines, which I don't eat, is referred to here as coming from Brittany, Normandy, Cornwall, etc

[Daniel Rogov]

Trevor, Hi......

One hates to be the bearer of good tidings, but you can believe me that a helluva lot less than 20-25% of the Israeli population relies on soup kitchens to eat.

As to the wager, 50 Euros it can be but only if you accept the condition that should I win the money goes into my personal pocket. What you will do with yours should you win will be entirely up to you but I have no desire to donate my gambling winnings to charity. The fun of gambling and winning is being able to use those winnings in the most frivolous of manners. What I do or do not give to charities is an entirely different matter.

By the way, with regard to your suggestion to the owner of the restaurant, I do not keep track of his charitable contributions or behavior. Nor, do I believe should any of us.

As to the wager and my condition .... Accepted?

Best
Rogov

[Trevor F]

No, 'fraid not.

2 conditions :

all gambling winnings ( well, most of them ) go to a charity, and

full price of NIS800 is charged to all diners. Any idiot can fill up a restaurant charging half-price or packing it with his mates.

[Daniel Rogov]

Trevor, Hi.....

I'm afraid we have no bet. As I say, my gambling winnings never go to anything but my personal pleasure. More important, however, no way to ascertain whether everyone who attends pays "full price". Knowing Shalom Marchovsky, the owner of Moul Yam and his clientele in general, I feel fairly certain that with the possible exception of the president of the country and the prime minister, all will pay full price (and there is a good chance that they would as well).

Best
Rogov