There are those who adore molecular gastronomy and there are those, including myself, who find molecular gastronomy the best post-modern joke ever played on the world. Whatever, one of the undisputed kings of the adventure of cooking with foams, gels, a variety of chemicals and liquid nitrogen to take food as far from its natural essence is Heston Blumenthal, the creator-chef of London's Fat Duck. Blumenthal has just released The Big Fat Duck Cookbook and Jay Rayner writes a review in The Guardian.
Be there no question that as much as I scorn this form of gastronomy, Rayner adores The Fat Duck and all within, from the green tea and vodka palate cleanser that has been "cooked" in liquid nitrogen to the snail porridge, the sardine on toast ice cream and the smoky bacon ice cream.
Oh yes – like everything else at the Fat Duck, the book is expensive, going for a generous 100 pounds sterling. In my opinion, all part of the joke. After all, if you can't fool all of the people at least you can take a good deal of money from those who you do fool. As for me, let it be known that I consider Heston Blumenthal even funnier than Woody Allen.
The article can be seen at at http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2008/oc ... eandgarden