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WTN: Christmas weekend wines

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Christmas weekend wines

by Dale Williams » Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:54 pm

Saturday was busy, and Betsy prepared a simple dinner of chicken and vegetables in parchment. I opened the 2005 Paul Pernot Bourgogne straight from the fridge, and found it surprisingly oaky. But as it warmed a bit the oak faded (usually I think oak shows more warm, but not this time) and a lovely pear and hazelnut middleweight showed through. By following night the oak was totally in the background, the wine all about wet stones, sweet white fruit, and good acidity. B+ , solid A for value

Christmas Eve I spent the day preparing for my organization's Christmas Party on the streets, but for only the second time in 16 years I wasn't going (lots of experienced volunteers, and for once I wanted more than 2 hours sleep. After afternoon loading, we made it to two Christmas Eve soirees, a small cocktail party and a big dinner. '

At the first party, my fave was the leftover Bourgogne, but I tried each of the rougecentric host's wines:

2004 Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha
Very popular with others, I found this overripe. I've consistently preferred the cheaper Borsao regular bottling. This was a bit raisiny, with prune and dark berry fruits. B/B-

2004 Norton Malbec Reserva
Very oaky, a vanilla milkshake poured on top of a bowl of blueberries. Yuckety yuck. Not my style at all, though it appealed to others. C+

Later we moved to the dinner party, with a great spread including ham, roasted vegetables, pasta, and more, with wines that included

2005 Babich Sauvignon Blanc
Clean citrus and gooseberry fruit, a little capiscum edge, crisp and lively, a good Marlborough. B/B+

2004 Dutour "La Roche" Pouilly-Fuisse
I had some from an almost emptied bottle, whoa, corked city. I didn't think it would serve a purpose to point out , as others seemed to have enjoyed. :(
I discreetly found a sink, later I tried from a newly opened bottle. This was a decent Chardonnay, sweet pear/apple fruit, some vanilla oak notes, ripe and fat. OK if not great. B

2004 Finnegan's Lake "Fin" Cabernet Sauvignon
Sweet ripe red fruit, faceless and bland. Red plum fruit, oakchippy flavors, dog on label is probably my favorite thing about this one. C

2004 Giovanni Rosso Dolcetto
Medium tannins, low acidity, heavy blueberry & blackberry fruit. Good length, nice Dolcetto (though it's not really my favorite varietal). B

We flew to Atlanta early Christmas Day. Not wanting to depend upon my dad (a great guy, but likes one glass of Taylor Lake Country Red with an ice cube with dinner), I had wanted to carry along a couple bottles. I felt more like Pinot/Burg, but was worried the more delicate examples would be subject to travel shock. I decided to go with a sturdier Burg, the 2000 Bonneau du Martray Corton. Very tight at first and seemed to have a bitter note, but that faded. Some woodsmoke and spicy oak, , the big black cherry fruit that emerged had a nice texture and mouthfeel. Still some tannins, this is one 2000 that could use some more time, but I liked. Good acidity, medium-bodied wine that dealt well with a variety of Southern holiday food- turkey, ham, creamed corn, okra, turnips, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, etc etc etc. B+/a-

Good to be with friends and family over Christmas!

PS A side story: I thought the glazed carrots tasted funny, but every thing else was good, until I found a salad to have off aromas- I realized I thought the salad was corked! Laughed at myself, then today Betsy made another salad to go along with some leftovers for lunch, and put discovered the carrots had a distinctive TCA smell. Whodathunk?

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.  

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