WTN: wines with fondue and more (du Tertre, Groffier, Apremont, CRB, etc)

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WTN: wines with fondue and more (du Tertre, Groffier, Apremont, CRB, etc)

Postby Dale Williams » Sat Dec 23, 2006 7:42 pm

Wednesday was spaghetti with a Bolognese sauce, wine was the 2004 Viticcio "Amore" Chianti Classico. I did not find myself enamored with Amore. Ok bitter cherry fruit, hint of wood, moderate acidity; the wine seemed to lack depth and length. Alright, but there are better Chiantis out there for $10-12. B-

Thursday we were having our nuclear family holiday dinner (David and his girlfriend were leaving Friday for his dad's in Denmark), Betsy made one of his favorites, beef jantaboon. I started by opening the 2006 Mionetto Novello that someone had left as a hostess gift, but by time the menorah candles were lit I excused myself to grab another bottle. The Novello was as expected grapey, but even by nouveau standards I couldn't recommend this. Reminded me of grape jelly in a glass. C-
The replacement was the 1999 Guy Castagnier Chambolle-Musigny. Medium-bodied with a sense of delicacy though not frail, black and red cherry fruit with soil and floral perfume notes. Not enough concentration to be great, but a satisfying Chambolle from a producer who is usually very well-priced. B+/B

Last night we attended a big holiday party at some friends' house. A great spread of fondue, cured meats, salad, and more; we contributed some gravlax canapes and bacon/chevre/date rolls. Lots of wines were sampled:

Whites:
2005 Mardon "Tres VV" Quincy
Quite grassy, with forward gooseberry and citrus fruit. Good acidity, a bit of flint, nice. B/B+

2005 Pierre Boniface Apremont (Savoie)
The classic fondue match. Light, sprightly, not complex but a bright accompaniment to the cheese. Good value. B

2003 Bovard "Terre a Boire" Epesses
Swiss - is this Chasselas? Very light, a bit unripe. I'm a fan of light sprightly wines but this flavor profile doesn't appeal to me, it seems a little shrill. B-

There also a forgettable Macon and a decent Alsace Riesling, but I have forgotten producers. Never made it to the Dr L Riesling.

Reds
2005 Clos Roche Blanche Cabernet (Touraine)
Im really like this wine. Warm red fruit buoyed by bright acidity, nice herb/humidor accents and just a hint of green pepper. Medium-bodied, fun and tasty. B+

1979 Ch. du Tertre (Margaux)
After really enjoying a bottle of this earlier this year, I put in some lowball bids on a few bottles of these last month and won. Good fill level (better than my earlier bottle), but always some trepidation with first bottle of an auction group. Hey, this seems fine. Plenty of cassis fruit, with cigarbox and loads of damp earth. Good finish, a major hit with all who tried. A-

2004 Tyrrell's Lost Block Pinot Noir
This could stay lost as far as I'm concerned. Thin, sweet edged and with a vanilla note that seems oak-chippy to me. C+

2004 Groffier Bourgogne
I was glad to taste this as I have some waiting on Long Island. While the higher-end Groffier Burgundies often seem too oaky and extracted to me, I have enjoyed the Bourgogne in the past. I'm a little disappointed at first, this seems oaky. But as I nurse the glass the oak seems better integrated, blending with the rather brawny red berry fruit and adding some rather Dujac-like spice. It never seems to totally integrate, however, and I find it acceptable rather than exciting. B


Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Dale Williams
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Re: WTN: wines with fondue and more (du Tertre, Groffier, Apremont, CRB, etc)

Postby Jenise » Mon Dec 25, 2006 6:45 pm

Neat results on the du Tertre. After reading your note of course I ran to the auction sites looking for more--only found a batch with "signs of past seepage", so I passed. But I did find $500 worth of wines I couldn't live without, I'm such a bad girl. Your fault!
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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