WTN: Rauzan Despagne, Von Hovel, Chevillon, Etude

Had a great dinner Thursday at Opus Restaurant in Los Angeles. Our group did the 6 course tasting, which turned out to be 9 courses. They always add a few courses and the food is great. I brought all the wines.

• 2003 Château Rauzan Despagne Blanc Grand Reserve - France, Bordeaux, Bordeaux Supérieur (12/14/2006)
  This is the 4th of a 6 pk. and this wine seems to just get better with each bottle The color shows very clear straw/gold. Wonderful nose of flint, lemon/lime and cut grass. Great palate texture with nice minerality, seemingly this wines best asset. Pretty much coating the palate liberaly, yet not too thick and goopy. The firm acidity balances the rich fruit from this vintage very well. Absolutely delicious. FWIW, RP's note is spot on. Awesome qpr at $13.
• 2005 Von Hövel Oberemmeler Hütte Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Saar (12/14/2006)
  One my favorite Rieslings, the 2005 may be the best vintage I've tasted yet. The '05 reminds me of '01 but bigger. The key to these wines is balance. Von Hovel killed it in '05. I opened the stelvin the day before, took a little out and srewed the cap on lightly. The next day the wine opened up and became glorious. The fruit is big and lush, while at the sametime maintaining a "light on it's feet" character. The fruit shows big tropical, orange zest and stone notes. Just a delight with food. Phenominal wine and value.
• 2001 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges (12/14/2006)
  Somewhat reticent nose that shows more earth, smokey, herb notes than fruit. The palate is where the fruit shows it's character. Red fruits with cherry very prominent and combining with the smokey note. Seems a bit hollow in the midpalate with a short finish. I have another one to try in a year or two.
• 2002 Etude Pinot Noir - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros (12/14/2006)
  This wine has settled into it's sweet spot. Aromas of spice, raspberry and some forest floor are noticeable. Very nice balance in a Burgundian style. The fruit is clearly not in the ripe, highly extracted style, but rather pure and clean pinot fruit. Well structured with good mouthfeel and length. My only criticism is a slight bittterness on the finish. Although I like this wine, I have had other vintages that I preferred (2001, 1999).

[David M. Bueker]

Hi Gregg,

von Hovel may have had their best vintage in recent memory in 2005. '01 was not a great Saar year, so '05 certainly has it over that. Try the Hutte Spatlese as well if you get the chance. It's a winner as well.

I'm not shocked at the Chevillon. The '01s seem to be pretty much shut down hard now.

David

Thanks for the notes! Interesting to hear that there is a white 2003 from Bx with truly firm acidity.

David, what happened in the Saar in '01?