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BR: Inside The Calif Food Revolution/JoyceGoldstein

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TomHill

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BR: Inside The Calif Food Revolution/JoyceGoldstein

by TomHill » Thu Aug 28, 2014 12:52 pm

Just finished reading this book ystrday. It describes the evolution of "Calif Cuisine", mostly evolving from AliceWaters' ChezPanisse and how that impacted, first Calif, then the entire Nation. Lots of familiar names in there, including DarrellCorti and PaulDraper.

One of the ideas the book dispelled: I'd always thought HankRubin and his PotLuck restaurant was the inspiration for AliceWaters' ChezPanisse and its focus on fresh produce and local/seasonal ingredients. Alice used to patronize Hank's restaraunt religiously, it was an institution in the BayArea. I always felt that Hank was given short shrift for his contributions to the CalifCuisine revolution. But, according to his chef, NarsaiDavid, Hank relied greatly on canned ingredients, including the use of garlic powder rather than fresh garlic. Something I was not aware of. Alas, I never got to eat at PotLuck afore it closed. But I did go on to become close friends w/ Hank thru the wine connection when he was editor for VintageMagazine and I wrote for him. He was one of my heros.

In addition to AliceWaters, the book focuses a lot on JerimiahTower (now living the life of a recluse/beach bum down in BajaCalif), Alice's first chef at ChezPanisse. I met Jeremiah on my first meeting w/ PaulDraper back around '74. I had made arrangements to meet & tour MB w/ Paul several months before. When I got there, Paul asked me if I minded if Jerimiah and several French froggie chefs tagged along on our visit. At the time, I had no idea who JerimiahTower was nor of his famed/exhalted status in the food world. He was just interested in showing off for his French buddies.
I was asking Paul a lot of (intelligent, natch) questions about the vnyd and the wnry and Paul was giving me his full attention. Towards the end of the tour, it was clear to me that Jeremiah was rather peeved that Paul was paying so much attention to the nobody guy (hmm...interesting how some things never change!!) from LosAlamos and that he/Jeremiah wasn't the star of the show. Only after he & his buddies took their leave did Paul explain to me who JeremiahTower was. I did run into Jeremiah two more times, at SantaFeBar&Grill and Stars, but he seemed to have no recollect of that day up on MBRidge.

Anyway...the book is a good/interesting read on the subject if you're a foodie.
Tom
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Tom Troiano

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Re: BR: Inside The Calif Food Revolution/JoyceGoldstein

by Tom Troiano » Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:00 pm

How can anyone not recollect their day on MBRidge? I can tell you the clothes the people were wearing the day I went and it was almost 20 years ago. Jeremiah is clearly not a true wine geek.
Tom T.

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