2000 Domaine de Saint-Just Saumur Coulée de St-Cyr - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (8/16/2014)
After two or three disappointing bottles from famous producers recently, I was wondering whether I was falling out of love with mature Loire Chenin. This bottle from a previous unknown estate shows that I need not have worried. Colour was quite deep gold. The expressive aromas on the nose were the typical white flower, pear, quince, acacia, minerals and wax. The palate was dry, but not bone dry, medium+ bodied and beautifully balanced with a suave texture, smooth acidity and underlying roundness with an impression of a touch of honey (frequent in Loire chenin) trying to emerge with the aromas on the decently long finish. Thanks to the caviste for recommending this very good wine.
1997 Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale - France, Provence, Bandol (8/15/2014)
Easy drinking like a lot of 1997s and quite succulent, it showed rich mature fruit and attractive aromas of leather, herbs and tar together with enough structure and grip for balance. My last note on this dates from as long ago as 2008 but I feel that it has changed very little other than a hint of drying. These Bandols have a distinction which is rare in S.France (Mourvèdre + terroir) and which is difficult to reflect in a score. This is the Tempier basic cuvée; Tourtine, Migoua and Cabassou are all more complex. Good+ .
2004 Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-pente - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil (8/14/2014)
Colour deep dark red with hardly any bricking. Nose unmistakably typé Bourgueil or Chinon with notes of red fruit, clay, bloody meat minerals, noble greenness and charcoal. The palate was quite full and structured for a Loire wine and the fruit deep showing the prominent almost smoky charcoal notes and towards the finish quite angular tannins, which I have found in other 04s, which were, however, softened after a mouthful of succulent lamb. Plenty of life left in this one. Good+ .
1995 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (8/10/2014)
I have been disappointed by these HL 95s. I repeat almost verbatim a TN from 2 years ago.
It was very tight 10 years ago and it has certainly opened up but is still not IMO a perfect mature dry Vouvray. Colour was now quite deep amber and the nose released aromas of wax, citrus fruit with quince touches, honey and minerals but also a raw note. The medium bodied palate struck me as somewhat disjointed and was dominated by still tart acidity with the wax and honey elements from the nose clashing somewhat with the acidity particularly on the finish. The overall impression was of a meaner and shorter wine than the outstanding Le Mont 1996 sec.
Towards the end of the Pinguet era there was more RS in the sec and I think that it was generally beneficial to balance although I have seen reports of premox in some vintages. There was certainly none of that here. Just good.
1989 Château Poujeaux - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Moulis en Médoc (8/9/2014)
I had a lovely bottle of 90 about a week ago and, based on TNs which I have read on CT, was expected this 89 to be much less good. Lo and behold, it was holding up very well. It was maybe a touch leaner and more linear than the 90 with slightly more angular tannins, but it was far from mean and there was a lot of still quite primary cassis tinged sweet fruit, attractive aromatics both on the nose and palate, well balanced acidity and a well supported finish with noticeable but resolved tannins. In a note about 5 years ago, I complained about an excessively obvious oak patina but that is now fully integrated to the point of being nearly imperceptible. Decidedly Poujeaux was punching well above its cru bourgeois weight in the 80s though to the late 90s. Very good.
2011 Château de Nancelle Mâcon-Villages - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Villages (8/8/2014)
Pleasant drinking. Plus points are absence of obvious oak influence, crispness and underlying roundness. Negative is unremarkable fruit. Fair.
2012 Domaine de Champarlan Menetou-Salon - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Menetou-Salon (8/6/2014)
This seems a satisfactory example of its type but was overshadowed by the Champagne which preceded.
PS 24 hours later - The wine has benefited from 24 hours one-third empty in the fridge as well as from absence of proximity of BdeB Champagne. It showed attractive fruit with gooseberry and other typical Sauvignon nuances and a nice underlying roundness as well as crispness. I would call it now a very nice example of its type and a QPR substitute for Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé, some of which are becoming pretty pretentious. Good+ now.
1995 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (8/6/2014)
Drunk after very good Fèlsina's 07 basic CC, the gain in calibre was unmistakable. Impeccable cork stained only on bottom 2mm. Colour was still vigorous with a little bricking at the rim. The nose took a little time to open up but became attractive with still some primary fruit notes mingled with minerals. The medium/full bodied palate was remarkably young seeming with fine tangy acidity and expressive with depth, fruit, secondary flavours including a hint of Tuscan oil and fine but discreet aromatics. The decently long finish was firmly supported by resolved tannins. Excellent; my last bottle, alas.
2007 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (8/6/2014)
A good robust CC from a reliable source showing medium/full body, good red fruit, tangy acidity and tannic backbone which, before food had a harsh touch disappearing after the first mouthful. Two or three more years could be beneficial. Good+ .
2009 Jean-Noel Haton Champagne Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (8/6/2014)
Served a little too warm because of fridge problems, a tough test, this champagne still showed itself in very good light. Fine bubbles, medium/light body, crisp and biscuity with attractive underlying roundness and elegance. Very Good.
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