WTN: Chalone Vineyards 2002 Chenin Blanc

Chalone Vineyards 2002 Chenin Blanc; Soledad, Monterey County, California; Alcohol 14.3%.

I ordered this directly from the winery three years ago for $16 per bottle. I tried a bottle back then and enjoyed it.

Upon opening and pouring, it revealed a golden, Sauternes-like color and a very shy nose. After a few minutes, a slight chenin blanc aroma emerged; no bouquet, though. First taste revealed a shy, very plump little critter showing only vinous notes. With time, some mineral, sweet French oak, dust and chenin blanc began to emerge on the palate. Just enough acid was present to hold it all together with some length on the finish. Very good balance. A bit of nutmeg characterised the bouquet. Nothing profound here, yet I found myself going back for refills quite frequently!

On the second day, it appeared to have closed down. I kicked myself for having opened it too early. So what would another night in the fridge do? Day Three really brought out some nice characterisitcs: delightful, almost riesling-like aroma, ginger and salty minerality on the palate with that characteristic chenin blanc taste. Superb balance.

I tried hard not to like this when I first opened it as it displayed more than a few elements of overblown chardonnay. Though it likely would not be mistaken for a Loire chenin blanc, it certainly conveys a sense of place and style that speaks of the New World in a most positive sense. Very very good; I'll buy more of this as it rewards cellar time.

Dave Mo

[I'll buy more of this as it rewards cellar time.

This wine (not the vintage, but Chalone's CB vineyard) might not be around too much longer. On a visit there this past October, the old vineyard produces something like a 1/2 ton of fruit per acre and possibly even less, and was told that the winery may stop chenin blanc production sometime in the near future. Despite being old vine (something like 70 years or more), economics may do this in.

Mark:

Thanks for the update on the status of those vines. I'd heard that the winery owners were committed to the variety in spite of its inability to affect their bottom line in a strongly positive way. I suppose that economic signals can be ignored for only so long. Much the pity for the sake of those old vines.

Dave Mo