WTN: 2002 Varennes Savennière

Speaking of oxidation in Loire whites...

• 2002 Château de Varennes Savennières - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (6/22/2014)
  Found this buried in the cellar, and thought I should pop it soon. This ended up being one of those oxidized yet still drinkable savennieres that can occur. Tradition or flaw? A difficult question! Anyway, this was an interesting wine, and the fruit and oxidized flavours merged to create an unique drinking sensation, although many (most?) would be turned off by the oxidative notes. Assuming this wasn't a flawed wine, ultimately I would have liked more fruit and less oxidation (B).
  

A lot of traditional Savennières did age in an oxidative manner though some claim that it was just a phase from which the wine recovered. I bought about 3 dozen assorted vintages from Château d'Epiré in the late 90s and the bottles were variable, some so badly oxidised from about year 8 as to be undrinkable and others, particularly bottles of Cuvée Spéciale 1996, good for my palate in a rich slightly porty manner. Some of the younger producers like Éric Morgat are trying to eliminate this tendency but bottles from him which I have drunk have been too young to say whether he is successful.

My local Leclerc supermarket stocks Château de Varennes 2010 at <€10. It is a good buy and in an attractive vibrant stage with lots of minerals and tension. I don't think that I will try to age any. Since 2002, Varennes has gone through an ownership change and I don't know if they are making in the same manner.