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WTN: Wines with pork and more

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Wines with pork and more

by Dale Williams » Mon Jun 02, 2014 12:27 pm

With scallops with a mango salsa, the 2007 Pepiere Granite de Clisson Muscadet. . I had this on deck Monday but it never got called up, David's note spurred me to put into rotation. Full, richer styled Muscadet, saline and citrus, very good length. A-/B+

With tuna simmered in a tomato/olive/caper sauce, the 2013 Chidaine Touraine Rose. Light, fresh, strawberry and orange peel, pleasant. B

Friday I did roast chicken and vegetables, and opened the 2001 Luisin "Maggiur" Nebbiolo Langhe
This was a bottle I didn’t intend to age this much, and my original intentions were correct. Soft, round, empty, and tired. C

Life is too short for overaged Langhe, so I opened an upright bottle of 1998 Ch. Grand Corbin Despagne. Drinking quite well. The oak of youth has faded, leaving only a light mocha note. Cassis, that mocha, and a bit of leather, nice texture/mouthfeel. Medium-bodied, ready. I don't think anything to be gained by further cellaring here, unlike the more traditional '98 St. Emilions. B+

Saturday was chicken sausage and squash, with the 2011 JP Brun/Terres Dorees Fleurie. I’m a big 2011 fan, and a big Brun fan, but I didn’t care for this much originally. Firm, juicy, but with a big dose of a “potted plant/geranium” - an odd aroma (more than taste) that I more commonly get in Loire gamay. A small taste on the second night dropped the plant tones, though some oxidation showed through. Night one, C+ for my idiosyncratic tastes

Sunday we went to meet friends at Juniper in Hastings for their Porcelet de Lait (Suckling Pig) dinner. Our group of six lucked into the lone outside table on an absolutely gorgeous night. We started with biscuits with ham and maple butter, along with a bottle of the Jacquesson “Cuvee 736” Champagne. Bone dry, crisp, full-bodied, with creamy overtones over pear tarte and bread notes. I like this a lot. A-

First course was coppa di testa (head cheese). Topped with an amazing lovage cream, shaved cucumber, microherbs, and chili oil. Yum!

Marc had brought a mag of 2009 Breton “Trinch” Bourgueil. Fresh and bright, juicy red currant and black plum, spicy. B/B+

Next up was pork belly (kind of a confit prep), with fennel, dill, and a raw oyster. Next wine was the 2002 Domaine Coste-Caumartin “Les Fremiers” Pommard 1er Cru. Pleasant, ripe, easy, red fruit and sandalwood though this is more on the elegant side than the powerful wine I’d expect from a 2002 Pommard. B/B+

Then sausage with tallegio, wonderful spring peas, asparagus, & salsa verde. Last savory course was a smoked pork chop, with cherries and grilled onions. Finally a dessert course was bacon custard with ginger snaps and peach. Food was great, company and setting even better.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Wines with pork and more

by David M. Bueker » Mon Jun 02, 2014 5:49 pm

Love the pairing idea for the Clisson. Not so different from the grilled shrimp and pineapple skewers I had with it.
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: WTN: Wines with pork and more

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Jun 03, 2014 1:06 am

Scallops, mango salsa and Muscadet, who would have thought!

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