by Hoke » Mon Apr 21, 2014 11:47 am
Okay, even though I screwed up the poll (never cast things so that people respond in the negative, dummy), I still believe I can see what I thought I would see in the results: that certain sweetie wines are so obscure, for whatever reasons, that they do not resonate with even the focused wine drinkers of this board.
Malaga: okay, expected. Malaga has really fallen off the board the last several years. It's cousins Port and Madeira have maintained their fragile but still important hold on wine drinkers' imagination, but Malaga---in the U.S. market most certainly---has essentially dropped off the radar. Okay, these things happen.
Clairette de Die, or the Dioise area in general? Okay, never got established really well in this country and I suppose it's a specialty that either doesn't resonate or never got sufficient identity clout behind it to do so. More popular in Europe. But, and I'm being brutally honest here: if you haven't had Clairette de Die it's not like you're missing anything monumental in your life. It can be good, mind you, but I've never found it all that compelling. Too me it's pleasant but, really, not that memorable. (Sorry, Dioisians.)
Passimenti? I'll discount that, as it's a vague and unspecific category...albeit fully in keeping with the overall nature of Italian wine (wonderfully chaotic, I mean). Probably should have limited it to vin santo...but that probably wouldn't have fared well either.
Now here's the part I am most interested in: as I expected, the wines the French vin doux naturel, and the VDN of Roussillon in particular, still don't have a broad consumption audience even among wine fanciers. And that's just wrong! Maury, Banyuls, Rivesaltes and others from the hotlands and the uplands in the south of France are the most delightful and deserving of wines and by rights should be in most people's cellars and mouths.
Sweet, yes. But usually not sticky-sweet. Not at all like Sauternes or TBAs. Somewhat in the Port vein, but oh so much lighter and more delicate. Probably closer to Madeira...but not at all like Madeira...in style and substance, the VDNs are the best of the odixative/sun-aged wines, in my estimation.
And they are sweeties I can drink! That is, more than a small sip or two of unction, as with Sauternes and others.
And finally, even though they are two different creatures, I love the VDNs for the same reasons I love Cognac: both are powerful but delicate, both are massively concentrated in their essence yet with patience ready to yield up that complexity, uncoiling out the glass in sinuous delight. And like Cognac, it's possible to slowly nurse a VDN and enjoy the seemingly endless layers of delight deep into the evening, without ever tiring of it.
So you guys get out and try some of these! They're not expensive; they're delightful; and the reward will be worth the effort.