WTN: Good sticks and heretics

Ghislaine Barthod 2001 Bourgogne les Bons Batons, $23
This has a super nose of Pinot cherry, roses, cinnamon and earth. The palate follows with tart, earthy cherry and some cinnamon accents. It’s very smooth, though some grainy tannins are still present. The acidity is bright as it should be. A delightful wine and an excellent match with a goat cheese tart and leftover turkey with oyster stuffing. The next day, the nose is a bit less appealing with some VA, but the palate is still superb. Importer: Neal Rosenthal.

Iché 2002 Vin de Pays de l'Hérault Les Hérétiques, $7
Mild but very pleasant nose with nice red berry fruit, flowers, herbs and spices. The palate follows, with mellow red berry fruit, herbs, and some spices and earth. Fairly light-bodied and smooth with good acidity. Super value and goes great with penne baked with broccoli, feta and olives. Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Catherine et Pierre Breton 2004 Bourgueil Trinch!, $15
Classic Loire CF aromas and flavors of bright red cherry, lots of herbs with oregano predominant, and graphite and minerals. There is some added perfume and flowers on the nose. Bright acidity and some tannins remain, giving it good structure. Excellent match with a Spanish-style potato/onion/broccoli/Jarlsberg tortilla. Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Catherine et Pierre Breton 2004 Bourgueil Trinch!, $15
Classic Loire CF aromas and flavors of bright red cherry, lots of herbs with oregano predominant, and graphite and minerals. There is some added perfume and flowers on the nose. Bright acidity and some tannins remain, giving it good structure. Excellent match with a Spanish-style potato/onion/broccoli/Jarlsberg tortilla. Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Our tasting group had a Cabernet Franc tasting back in October, and a 2005 Breton Bourgueil Trinch was one of five bottles in a blind tasting. Breaking our normal rules for these tastings, we opened it up to any appelation. The Breton was the only bottle from France; there was one from CA and three from WA.

The 2005 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Trinch received three first place votes (8 votes total) in the blind tasting. Unfortunatley, it also received two fourth and three fifth place votes. You can see how bipolar the voting went, based on taster preferences for old vs new world characteristics. The Breton (at $16) was the most affordable wine that evening, with the others ranging in price from $25 to $40. AND at 12% ABV, it was the only one with a moderate alcohol level; the others ranged from 13.9% to 14.9% ABV.

I strongly endorse the Breton Bourgueil Trinch.

-- Clark

I strongly endorse the Breton Bourgueil Trinch.

Me, too. This was my second bottle of a half-case worth -- both terrific. Now I've got to get my hands on some of that 2005!

Great idea to have a CF tasting open to any appellation. Outside of the Loire (and, I imagine, some Bordeaux though it's hard to tell the percentage of CF in the blend), I've only had some from Washington state -- none from California. While the Washington CFs I've tasted have been a mixed bag -- liked some, found others overwhelmed by oak -- I can't fathom preferring any of these to a Breton Trinch! or even a lesser Chinon or Bourgueil.

[Robin Garr]

Iché 2002 Vin de Pays de l'Hérault Les Hérétiques, $7
Mild but very pleasant nose with nice red berry fruit, flowers, herbs and spices. The palate follows, with mellow red berry fruit, herbs, and some spices and earth. Fairly light-bodied and smooth with good acidity. Super value and goes great with penne baked with broccoli, feta and olives. Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Funny coinkydink, Bruce ... we opened the 2004 with dinner Friday night. Very similar TNs indeed (I'm traveling so don't have the specifics here to post), but the nose was much more forward. I wonder if it's a freshness issue or vintage difference or what? Really an enjoyable wine, though, and outstanding QPR.

the nose was much more forward. I wonder if it's a freshness issue or vintage difference or what?

I'm guessing it's the difference between a four-year-old and two-year-old wine that's made to be drunk on release. Regardless, I agree -- it's one of the best values out there.

[Robin Garr]

the nose was much more forward. I wonder if it's a freshness issue or vintage difference or what?

I'm guessing it's the difference between a four-year-old and two-year-old wine that's made to be drunk on release. Regardless, I agree -- it's one of the best values out there.

I would tend to agree, Bruce ... what's more, the 2004 at least had a plastic cork, and I think the jury is already pretty much in on the verdict that they shouldn't be used for longer than a year or two.

Still, 2002 was a pretty lackluster vintage over much of Europe (not sure about Languedoc, though), and that might be yet another variable. In any case, the '04 was slurpy yet well-balanced with food-friendly acidity, and I wouldn't mind having a bunch more of it.

The 2002 had an old-fashioned cork. Looking back on my notes, I drank a previous bottle of the 2002 in June and wrote that it had a much more effusive nose "dominated by garriguey herbs, flowers, earth and some red fruits." So who knows about the nose? Anyway, I still liked the most recent bottle and if I can get my hands on the 2004 (or 2005 if it's out), I'll certainly scarf some up.

[Robin Garr]

The 2002 had an old-fashioned cork. Looking back on my notes, I drank a previous bottle of the 2002 in June and wrote that it had a much more effusive nose "dominated by garriguey herbs, flowers, earth and some red fruits." So who knows about the nose? Anyway, I still liked the most recent bottle and if I can get my hands on the 2004 (or 2005 if it's out), I'll certainly scarf some up.

For what it's worth, my '04 came from Chambers Street.