2004 Yann Chave, Crozes-Hermitage, France, $26. This lovely middleweight should probably be consumed over the next two to three years. Sporting excellent balance, the complex aromas and flavors reveal blackberries, meatiness, smoke and a hint of spice. The tannins are very forgiving; the balance impeccable. Discounters have this for $19 -- I nabbed a case; 88/90.