Agostino Berti wrote:100% Nebbiolo. Miraculously found a bottle of this amongst some boxes in a Siberian hotel room. (ha) Wow, I've never had the '95 Buonconglio by the late legend, master, and zen winemaker....Arturo Pelizzati Perego. He brought wine making in Valtellina to a level that hath yet to be scaled in the area. Mr. Perego did not worry so much about money. He released his masterpiece, the Sassella Vigna Regina '95 sometime in 2003 or so. The cost was Euro 13 in Sondrio.
This wine reminds me of that St. Augustine quote: "Men go abroad to wonder at the heights of mountains, at the huge waves of the sea, at the long courses of the rivers, at the vast compass of the ocean, at the circular motions of the stars, and they pass by themselves without wondering."
Nose starts out with none. The color is ridiculously, wonderfully textbook aged Valtellina nebbiolo....Orange, brown, yellow, cherry red, brick, very transparent but seems quite alive in its camouflage of oldness. After a while some slight Tar emerges. Best to let this baby chill a while and breathe, relax, invigorate.
Now, with some Speck on cracker. This thing is still breathing and reawakening, but I will take a sip....coming along.
The wine has beautiful proportion and zen quality. Fleeting, ephemeral subtlety which is yet powerful with its Tar waftings, telling you this wine knows Judo.
An aside about the label. Undiscernible style, bizarre yet normal.
Nose is coming along with cinnamon and subtle menthol type action which comes and goes. Some good earthiness as well. Earthiness, drinkeability, mysterious evolutions, palate cleansing acidity, worthy tannins all make up this package. A very fine expression of Nebbiolo by a winemaker whom I consider one of my Legends - representing what a creative mind and passion can bring forth in a harsh wine area that was left for dead in the 80's.
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