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WTN: Post Thanksgiving turkey, w/Fleurie, MSR, St Estephe, and Quincy

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Post Thanksgiving turkey, w/Fleurie, MSR, St Estephe, and Quincy

by Dale Williams » Sun Nov 26, 2006 8:45 pm

As we had spent Thanksgiving with the pesce-vegetarians, Betsy had decided to cook a turkey Saturday for us and some friends who were away on the actual day. She went to pick up the fresh kosher turkey she had ordered, to discover they had a 20 pounder, not the 14lb. bird she had ordered. Led to some nervousness re timing, but the bird ended up fine.

We had appetizers of Serrano ham with pear as well as smoked duck breast . Jim likes big reds, Andrea likes crisp dry whites, Betsy and I like both. So I served:

2003 Lilian Ladouys (St Estephe)
Big and vibrant, more red than black fruit. Earthy notes over the red berry fruit, eventually a bit of leather. Enough acidity to keep it lively, some substantial tannins for the level (not many good northern Medocs for $16). Probably the best under-$20 2003 Bdx I've tried. B+

2005 Mardon "Tres VV" Quincy
Green apples and grass, lively acidity, nice finish. Some minerality, more flint than chalk. Gets more citrusy with time. Another buy again. B+/B

Then we sat down to table.
In addition to the bird, we had:
bacon/apple/sage stuffing (she stuffed the bird and cooked a pan as "dressing", as we Southerners call it)
gravy
mashed potatoes with corn,chives, and buttermilk
sour cream/buttermilk rolls
haricots verts with ginger and garlic
green salad
cranberry sauce
pumpkin pie with whipped cream
cheese: Neals Yard Montgomery cheddar , Tallegio, St Nectaire

I had chosen a food-friendly red and white to try and deal with the complex combinations of flavors:

2004 Selbach Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)
Lighter styled, classic Mosel. Minerals around apple and pear fruit, sweetness complements the dishes well. A little lime zest, great acidity. Not especially complex, but hits the spot. B+/B

2002 Clos de Roilette (Coudert) Fleurie

A bit shy at first. Raspberry and cherry fruit, good acidity, clean finish. Just as I remember this excellent Beaujolais. Jim finds light and goes back to the St. Estephe. I let alone for a while as I concentrate on the Riesling with the food. When I return, I do a double-take and check that I didn't open a bottle I forgot about. This seems so much bigger than any of the many 2002 Couderts I've opened. Big cherry fruit, earth, flowers, with electric acidity. I'd have guessed a very good Burgundy from maybe Savigny or Volnay if blind. I haven't had this reaction to this wine before, but what can I say? A-

I was quite happy with all of the wines. There was also an 1989 Puligny that was totally shot- no real loss, it was part of a $55 case of assorted risky white Burgundies. I've had 2 wines I really enjoyed from case (one of which has a second bottle), 2 wines that were drinkable if a bit tired, and 4 down the drain. Even if others are totally maderized I can pour down sink thinking I got money's worth.

Fun & delicious night with friends, we gave thanks to be together even if it wasn't a day where it was mandated. :)

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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