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WTN: Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett '04

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Bill Hooper

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WTN: Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett '04

by Bill Hooper » Sun Nov 26, 2006 8:33 pm

Why in the world does anyone buy Sauvignon Blanc when S-O makes wines like this? The lemon-lime zest, grapefruit and underripe pear take your tongue for a wild ride, then the flinty mineral and ninjas of acid sadistically slice it up and make it beg for more. There's nothing juicy or tropical about it. Par for Selbach-Oster in that there's not much detectable sweetness, but surely enough to call her Halbtrocken. Excellent value at under $20. 8,5% alc.
I haven't tried the '05 yet, but I think a vintage like 2004 really suits the Selbach-Oster style of frame over flesh. I'd like to try some of S-Os upper praedikat wines from this vintage in a few years. It should be interesting. Wines built for speed usually don't fare well long-term, but I feel these could.


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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett '04

by Dale Williams » Sun Nov 26, 2006 8:53 pm

I like SB, I like Riesling, don't see an issue. :)

I just posted on this same wine. Not that dissimilar, except I found it sweeter than you. What I'd call typical Kabinett (real Kabinett, not declassified Spätlese).
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett '04

by David M. Bueker » Sun Nov 26, 2006 8:57 pm

As always this is a great wine (when they make it) from Selbach-Oster. There was no Z-S Kabinett in 2005 as far as I know, because it was such a tough year to get any kabinett. BUT 2005 is an outstanding year across the board for Selbach-Oster. Their spatlesen and auslesen are true standouts in the vintage.

If you're looking for a S-B stand in may I suggest the Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken. It's nearly dry, always bright and refreshing.
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Re: WTN: Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett '04

by Bill Hooper » Sun Nov 26, 2006 9:58 pm

David M. Bueker wrote: There was no Z-S Kabinett in 2005 as far as I know, because it was such a tough year to get any kabinett.


If you're looking for a S-B stand in may I suggest the Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken. It's nearly dry, always bright and refreshing.



David,
while on the subject of 2005 Kabinett; do you know if Egon Mueller produced any Scharzhofberg Kabinett in '05? Sometimes, it seems the Saar can ward off ripeness enough for a Kabinett selection. I just ordered some Spaetlese (the Auslese was priced too dearly for me), and the Kabinett was not on offer.
Thanks for the tip on the Zeltinger Himmelreich HT, I'm always looking to phase out even more Sauvignon! (of course I'm sort of kidding. If forced, I'll drink Loire SB.)


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Re: WTN: Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett '04

by Bill Hooper » Sun Nov 26, 2006 10:18 pm

Dale Williams wrote:I found it sweeter than you. (real Kabinett, not declassified Spätlese).



Dale,
as the temp. drops and the trapped CO2 fades, the wine tastes a little sweeter than I first observed it. But IMO it's still pretty dry for Mittel Mosel Kabinett. Not so fine, fruity and delicate as it is sharp and precise like a Ginsu 2000. I think you're dead on about the whole declassified Spaetlese Kabinetts these days. Some of the producers I've talked to have defended their decisions to produce heavier must weight Kabinett by saying that the consumer is getting a better wine for the money. I disagree. What is really happening is that the line has been blurred even more as to what defines the Praedikat system. It's not you or I in trouble; it's the German wine growers themselves that will suffer by confusing the uninitiated consumer. There were big steps taken this year by the VDP in rectifying the mistakes of the 1971 Wine Law, but IMO, the whole system needs to be blown up.

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Re: WTN: Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett '04

by Rahsaan » Sun Nov 26, 2006 10:31 pm

Bill Hooper wrote:do you know if Egon Mueller produced any Scharzhofberg Kabinett in '05?


von Hovel made an 05 Scharzhofberger Kabinett, and it may settle down with time, but to my tastes the other week the Spatlese was better balanced.
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Re: WTN: Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett '04

by Bill Hooper » Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:53 pm

Thank you Rahsaan. I love von Hoevel. I haven't seen the '05s yet, but will keep a look out for them.


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