WTN: Is this "ox.." "prem.." or normal? An Alsace Riesling.
Posted: Wed May 01, 2013 5:17 am
I have read the discussion on premox in Chablis with interest. Victor’s contribution was particularly interesting when he said that aromas of polish were a sign of particularly damaging oxidisation; this is what I got with this bottle.
I have read elsewhere that Alsatian wines seem to be almost as infected by premox as white Burgundies. Previous bottles of this wine were good but 12 years may be pushing for a Riesling from a modest lieu-dit. The cork was leaky with mould on top but the level was still quite good; however, this probably did not help.
So is what I got premox or just normal oxidisation from age?
Alsace Riesling Pfoeller 2001 – Meyer-Fonné, Katzenthal, Alsace – Alc. 13%
This is my TN from almost exactly two years ago -
C: Deep yellow/gold
N: Well developed and fragrant with notes of white fruit and flowers, a slight dab of petrol and a slightly candied burnished note which made me expect a sweeter wine than turned out to be the case.
P: Medium-full in body with good “gras”, mouth-fill, structure and aromatic expression showing minerals, slightly saline backbone and lively acidity which balanced well the RS (I guess 5-7g/l) perceptible towards the clean finish. A very good Riesling; 16/20++.
The only thing that was similar about last night’s bottle was the colour but all the attractive Riesling features had disappeared. Instead the dominant aroma was one of furniture polish. It was not unpleasant but it was not what I want in Alsace Riesling. Germaine disliked it intensely and didn’t finish her first glass. For me, it was drinkable with an overall effect which was quite rich, burnished and slightly sweet with good acidity, if somewhat monochrome. It didn’t work with sea bass but it was much better with cheese and, surprisingly, with rhubarb tart where the sugar in the recipe made the wine seem more lively.
I have read elsewhere that Alsatian wines seem to be almost as infected by premox as white Burgundies. Previous bottles of this wine were good but 12 years may be pushing for a Riesling from a modest lieu-dit. The cork was leaky with mould on top but the level was still quite good; however, this probably did not help.
So is what I got premox or just normal oxidisation from age?
Alsace Riesling Pfoeller 2001 – Meyer-Fonné, Katzenthal, Alsace – Alc. 13%
This is my TN from almost exactly two years ago -
C: Deep yellow/gold
N: Well developed and fragrant with notes of white fruit and flowers, a slight dab of petrol and a slightly candied burnished note which made me expect a sweeter wine than turned out to be the case.
P: Medium-full in body with good “gras”, mouth-fill, structure and aromatic expression showing minerals, slightly saline backbone and lively acidity which balanced well the RS (I guess 5-7g/l) perceptible towards the clean finish. A very good Riesling; 16/20++.
The only thing that was similar about last night’s bottle was the colour but all the attractive Riesling features had disappeared. Instead the dominant aroma was one of furniture polish. It was not unpleasant but it was not what I want in Alsace Riesling. Germaine disliked it intensely and didn’t finish her first glass. For me, it was drinkable with an overall effect which was quite rich, burnished and slightly sweet with good acidity, if somewhat monochrome. It didn’t work with sea bass but it was much better with cheese and, surprisingly, with rhubarb tart where the sugar in the recipe made the wine seem more lively.