WTN: Hirtzberger Honivogl Gruner 2001
Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 1:50 pmHere's the excerpted version of a longer writeup on the Hirtzberger Honivogl-Gruner Veltliner 2001, another brilliant jewel from the amazing cellar of Lou and BettyLu Kessler on the occasion of their January 2013 Cassoulet Dinner.
If you'd like the full version, it's here: http://www.tasteandcompareacademy.com/wine--spirit-blog.html
One of the loveliest things about Grüner is its ability to be perfectly satisfying and delightful when young yet continue to develop---for thirty or more years!---and show constantly different facets as it ages, much like the fabled white Burgundies. Indeed, some experts stoutly maintain that the older a Grüner gets, the more it tastes like a Montrachet or Meursault.
The Hirtzberger Honivogl is poised in that long, slow transition from brilliant freshness to mature development; it retains the original acidity-driven intensity of a handful of fresh crushed green herbs mingled with citrus, but its 12 years of cellaring has developed a whisper of saline mingling with celery seed, a brisk snap of freshly ground white pepper, and a surprising appearance of…white peaches. Age has also altered the texture of the Honivogl from its original crisp and edgy bite to a softer, silkier mouth-coating richness.
Brash and aggressively charming when young; demure and discreetly charming when mature---what more could you ask of a wine?
If you'd like the full version, it's here: http://www.tasteandcompareacademy.com/wine--spirit-blog.html
