WTN: Wines in CT w/SOBER- Italy, Bdx, etc
Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:24 pm
Last night a few of us carpooled to New Canaan for a SOBER tasting. Our newest member John hosted, and did a fabulous job. We were greeted with speck, proscuitto, salomon canapes and more. Greeting wines were a couple of Champagnes:
2002 Philipponnat “Clos des Goisses” Brut
This was surprisingly advanced, and we debated if representative bottle (and p’ox in Champagne?). Full, toasty, with some oxidative notes and very round. I usually love CdG but not this bottle. B-
2006 Jose Dhondt “Mes Vieilles Vignes” Blanc de Blancs
No much experience with this producer, but I need to get more- this was very good! Crisp, brisk, full, and lively. A-
A Blind white
We had no clue to origin or grapes (turns out a blend, mostly varieties I’m not familiar with, except a little Vermentino). My guess was Slovenia/Brda, as I thought maybe it was a partial skin contact wine. Herby, piney, some mineral. Nose seemed to suggest age while palate didn’t. Interesting wine, but not a buy for me at a $80-100 price tag per 750 ml (this came from a mag). 2010 Abbatucci “General de la Revolution” Blanc B
Blind red
Offered as the counterpart to the white, I got Corsica based on some comments by John, not by tasting. A bit funky (John has originally wondered if corked). Cranberries, pine, garrigue. Again, interesting till I heard similar pricetag. 2010 Abbatucci “ Ministre Imperial” B/B+
First Blind Red Flight (with mushroom/truffle ravioli)
This took us a while to get. #1 and #2 were funky and floral at first, with ripe black cherry- I wondered if could be CaliPN a la Rhys/Arcadian/ Littorai, which got a laugh from host. Oops.
Wine #1-slightly lifted, flowers and cherry cough drop, settles down with some air, in the end I quite like. B+/B. 2006 Burlotto “Monvigliero” Barolo
‘
Wine #2- initially quite weird aromatically (someone suggested aftershave)- herby and spice, a little VA, somewhat tight with air, maybe potential but my least favorite of flight. B. 2004 Burlotto “Monvigliero” Barolo
Wine #3- my favorite, and most clearly Nebbiolo of bunch, crunchy red fruits, tar, smooth tannins and apparent but easy acids. A- 2001 Burlotto “Monvigliero” Barolo
A non-blind addendum. The 2003 Burlotto “Monvigliero” Barolo is certainly a rounder/riper version, but it is elegant despite the fat, easygoing tannins, maybe my favorite 03 Piedmont to date. B+
Second Blind Red Flight
I thought certainly #2 was California Cabernet, someone beat me to Cali guess so I went with Medoc, these were almost totally primary. A good argument for letting these sleep.
Wine #1- the only one that showed Bordeauxy, some wood and tannin, but expressive cassis fruit and leather. B+ 2000 Leoville Barton
Wine#2- Oak and coconut over black fruits, big, coarse, I’m disappointed when revealed, B-. 2000 Pichon Baron.
Wine#3- Tannic, stern, oak and a green note over monolithic fruit. B- 2000 Pontet-Canet
Non--blind Faro flight
One guest is an importer of the Burlotto and an owner of this estate. Very fun to try, as I’ve heard a lot of recent chatter re the tiny Faro appellation but never tried one.
2010 Casematte Quattroenne
Quite sweet, red fruit, herb/underbrush. Interesting, and I admire the owners’ dedication to doing everything as traditionally as possible; however I agreed with Mark who made the point maybe earlier picking might be in order, as this seemed to have RS and needed more verve. B-
2009 Casematte Quattroenne
Still some noticable sweetness, but less, reminds me more of CdP than say Etna (the only other Nerello-based wine I know). B
Third Blind Red Flight (with a knockout osso buco with gremalata and polenta)
I think someone got Piedmont rather early.
Wine #1- red fruits, leather, a little vanilla, kind of a midmodern style. B. 1996 Azelia “Bricco Fiasco” Barolo
Wine#2 = glossy, smooth oak over red fruits, someone calls it as mid-90s Marc de Grazia (both it and Azelia are). B-/C+ 1996 Parusso “Bussia Vigna Rocche” Barolo
Wine#3- quite complex compared to it’s flightmates, mature but with a bit of tannin remaining, black cherry, orange rind, tar, I eventually guess 1985 for vintage, never had an ‘86 before. A- 1986 Giacosa “Rocche di Castiglione Falletto” Barolo
Fourth Blind Flight
Wine #1- favorite of flight- ripe and modern, but structure underneath, not quite ready. B+ 1998 Angelus
Wine#2- ripe, black plum, someone got RB quickly, quite modern, showed a more Perse-y than a bottle Mark blinded us with last year, B/B+ 1998 Pavie
Wine#3- round/soft, plummy fruit, short, I didn’t recognize it though I had recently, but still don’t think much of this! C+/B- 2000 Gruaud Larose
Two pies, which the dessert eaters loved, I was content with the dessert wines, the 1988 Climens. Great acids, vibrant, nice melange of flavors: pineapple, candied orange, apricot. A/A-
Fun night. Special thanks for Mike for driving (and not pretending he was on the Nurburg Ring).
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a
party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of
objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
2002 Philipponnat “Clos des Goisses” Brut
This was surprisingly advanced, and we debated if representative bottle (and p’ox in Champagne?). Full, toasty, with some oxidative notes and very round. I usually love CdG but not this bottle. B-
2006 Jose Dhondt “Mes Vieilles Vignes” Blanc de Blancs
No much experience with this producer, but I need to get more- this was very good! Crisp, brisk, full, and lively. A-
A Blind white
We had no clue to origin or grapes (turns out a blend, mostly varieties I’m not familiar with, except a little Vermentino). My guess was Slovenia/Brda, as I thought maybe it was a partial skin contact wine. Herby, piney, some mineral. Nose seemed to suggest age while palate didn’t. Interesting wine, but not a buy for me at a $80-100 price tag per 750 ml (this came from a mag). 2010 Abbatucci “General de la Revolution” Blanc B
Blind red
Offered as the counterpart to the white, I got Corsica based on some comments by John, not by tasting. A bit funky (John has originally wondered if corked). Cranberries, pine, garrigue. Again, interesting till I heard similar pricetag. 2010 Abbatucci “ Ministre Imperial” B/B+
First Blind Red Flight (with mushroom/truffle ravioli)
This took us a while to get. #1 and #2 were funky and floral at first, with ripe black cherry- I wondered if could be CaliPN a la Rhys/Arcadian/ Littorai, which got a laugh from host. Oops.
Wine #1-slightly lifted, flowers and cherry cough drop, settles down with some air, in the end I quite like. B+/B. 2006 Burlotto “Monvigliero” Barolo
‘
Wine #2- initially quite weird aromatically (someone suggested aftershave)- herby and spice, a little VA, somewhat tight with air, maybe potential but my least favorite of flight. B. 2004 Burlotto “Monvigliero” Barolo
Wine #3- my favorite, and most clearly Nebbiolo of bunch, crunchy red fruits, tar, smooth tannins and apparent but easy acids. A- 2001 Burlotto “Monvigliero” Barolo
A non-blind addendum. The 2003 Burlotto “Monvigliero” Barolo is certainly a rounder/riper version, but it is elegant despite the fat, easygoing tannins, maybe my favorite 03 Piedmont to date. B+
Second Blind Red Flight
I thought certainly #2 was California Cabernet, someone beat me to Cali guess so I went with Medoc, these were almost totally primary. A good argument for letting these sleep.
Wine #1- the only one that showed Bordeauxy, some wood and tannin, but expressive cassis fruit and leather. B+ 2000 Leoville Barton
Wine#2- Oak and coconut over black fruits, big, coarse, I’m disappointed when revealed, B-. 2000 Pichon Baron.
Wine#3- Tannic, stern, oak and a green note over monolithic fruit. B- 2000 Pontet-Canet
Non--blind Faro flight
One guest is an importer of the Burlotto and an owner of this estate. Very fun to try, as I’ve heard a lot of recent chatter re the tiny Faro appellation but never tried one.
2010 Casematte Quattroenne
Quite sweet, red fruit, herb/underbrush. Interesting, and I admire the owners’ dedication to doing everything as traditionally as possible; however I agreed with Mark who made the point maybe earlier picking might be in order, as this seemed to have RS and needed more verve. B-
2009 Casematte Quattroenne
Still some noticable sweetness, but less, reminds me more of CdP than say Etna (the only other Nerello-based wine I know). B
Third Blind Red Flight (with a knockout osso buco with gremalata and polenta)
I think someone got Piedmont rather early.
Wine #1- red fruits, leather, a little vanilla, kind of a midmodern style. B. 1996 Azelia “Bricco Fiasco” Barolo
Wine#2 = glossy, smooth oak over red fruits, someone calls it as mid-90s Marc de Grazia (both it and Azelia are). B-/C+ 1996 Parusso “Bussia Vigna Rocche” Barolo
Wine#3- quite complex compared to it’s flightmates, mature but with a bit of tannin remaining, black cherry, orange rind, tar, I eventually guess 1985 for vintage, never had an ‘86 before. A- 1986 Giacosa “Rocche di Castiglione Falletto” Barolo
Fourth Blind Flight
Wine #1- favorite of flight- ripe and modern, but structure underneath, not quite ready. B+ 1998 Angelus
Wine#2- ripe, black plum, someone got RB quickly, quite modern, showed a more Perse-y than a bottle Mark blinded us with last year, B/B+ 1998 Pavie
Wine#3- round/soft, plummy fruit, short, I didn’t recognize it though I had recently, but still don’t think much of this! C+/B- 2000 Gruaud Larose
Two pies, which the dessert eaters loved, I was content with the dessert wines, the 1988 Climens. Great acids, vibrant, nice melange of flavors: pineapple, candied orange, apricot. A/A-
Fun night. Special thanks for Mike for driving (and not pretending he was on the Nurburg Ring).
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a
party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of
objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.