WTN: Chateau La Nerthe dinner
Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 11:29 am
One of the oldest estates from Chateauneuf du Pape is Chateau La Nerthe which has its origins in the 12th century. It is also unusual in that it uses all the 13 grape varieties authorized for Chateauneuf du Pape. The importer of this estate’s wines, Straits Wine Company, organized a dinner at the Makati Shangri-La’s Red restaurant showcasing several vintages of La Nerthe going back to 1988. On hand to provide commentary on the wines was La Nerthe’s Export Director, Christophe Bristiel and Red’s Sommelier Daniel Blais.
Upon arrival I was immediately handed a glass of Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2011. This wine is dominated by a talcum powder aroma. Light to medium bodied with mineral and lemon notes, a fine acidity frames the wine. This shows good length as well. Very good.
Chateau La Nerthe Blanc 2011 by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
The first wine poured after we were seated was the Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 1993. Light orange/gold. Quite honeyed on the nose with a touch of oxidation as well. This has a gentle butterscotch sweetness that made me think of an aged, low-puttonyos Tokaji. Slightly bitter on the finish but with good length. A rather lightish wine but I like the way it’s put together. Excellent. This was accompanied by a poached white prawn with a Peckhams Triumph pear compote, prosciutto bits and Madagascar vanilla oil powder. Mr. Blais commented that the pear notes in the compote would complement the pear notes in the wine but I wasn’t convinced by the pairing. It was neutral at best to my taste.
Chateau la Nerthe Blanc 1993 by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
Poached prawn, pear compote, prosciutto bits, Madagascar vanilla bean oil powder by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
This was followed by two vintages of their top Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc called Clos de Beauvenir. This is from a one hectare vineyard that produces only about 3000 bottles annually. The 2010 has a pale cast, nose of talcum powder again, and with flavors of nuts and some tropical fruit. The 1990 was much darker, almost gold, with a strong oxidative note. I thought this was not showing well as it seemed hollow and tired. It reminded me of a very light amontillado sherry. Although it wasn't to my taste, Noel, who was seated beside me seems to have had a better opinion of this wine. The Beauvenirs were matched by an oven-poached spring chicken with butter and thyme, sautéed asparagus, soubise cream and savory almond crumbs. The 2010 was a great match for this dish, bringing out the creaminess in the wine while the wine cut the richness of the chicken. This was my favorite pairing of the dinner.
Clos de Beauvenir '90 and '2010 by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
Oven poached spring chicken with butter and thyme, sauteed aspargus, soubise cream and savory almond crumbs by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
Done with the whites, we moved on to the reds. First up were two of the regular Chateauneuf bottlings. The Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape 1988 was the oldest wine we had. This was still quite dark and with a strong earthy, barnyard, leather nose. Light to medium weight. There’s prune and some oxidation however, there is also some sweet black fruit still showing beneath the characteristics of age. There’s some meat as well. This was one of my favorite reds. Apparently, our table got one of the better bottles as Richard, one of our friends at another table complained that theirs was completely dead. I gave him a taste from our bottle and he thought it was much better than the one they were given. Served beside this was the Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape 2008. This was already quite soft with dark fruit and liquorice notes. Already good to drink but not showing too much character. This needs a few years to flesh out and develop more interesting nuances. These were matched by a very good home-made panzerotti with lamb ragout and prunes, eggplant salad, coffee jus and pink peppercorn husk. The match was spot-on. I wish the dish were bigger, though as it was only good for two forkfuls.
Chateau La Nerthe '88, '08 by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
Panzerotti stuffed with lamb ragout and prunes, eggplant salad, coffee jus and pink peppercorn husk by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
The highlight of the evening was the three magnums of the top wine Cuvee des Cadettes. The oldest of these magnums was the 1989. This is a rich wine with soft tannins. Very complex with leather, tar, asphalt, coffee and earth. There’s also still quite a bit of ripe dark berry present which gives some sweetness. Excellent wine. This was served alongside the 2009 Cuvee des Cadettes. Very primary, black fruits, plum and berry, cedar and espresso. Very good but obviously young and primary. These two were served with Braised beef cheeks and grilled sirloin, mushroom ragout, wilted sprout leaves and balsamic sauce. A good match. I preferred the beef cheeks, though, as the sirloin was a bit tough.
Braised beef cheeks and grilled sirloin, mushroom ragout, wilted sprout leaves and balsamic sauce by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
Cuvee des Cadettes '89, '99, 09 by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
The last Cuvee des Cadettes, the 1999, was served with the cheese course of Reblochon with chunky fig and walnut jam and oat cakes. This wine is still primary, showing all fruit. Sweet plum and blackberry; full and rich with soft tannins. Good to drink now but not really compelling at the moment. Needs more time.
Reblochon with fig and walnut jam, oatcakes by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
The dinner ended with an excellent Bitter Belcolade dark chocolate and yuzu tart with cherries mascarpone and cocoa nib tuiles. Overall, it was a good dinner with an excellent showing by all the wines, except for the 1990 Beauvenir.
Bitter Belcolade dark chocolate and yuzu tart, cherries mascarpone and cocoa nib tuiles by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
Upon arrival I was immediately handed a glass of Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2011. This wine is dominated by a talcum powder aroma. Light to medium bodied with mineral and lemon notes, a fine acidity frames the wine. This shows good length as well. Very good.
Chateau La Nerthe Blanc 2011 by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
The first wine poured after we were seated was the Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 1993. Light orange/gold. Quite honeyed on the nose with a touch of oxidation as well. This has a gentle butterscotch sweetness that made me think of an aged, low-puttonyos Tokaji. Slightly bitter on the finish but with good length. A rather lightish wine but I like the way it’s put together. Excellent. This was accompanied by a poached white prawn with a Peckhams Triumph pear compote, prosciutto bits and Madagascar vanilla oil powder. Mr. Blais commented that the pear notes in the compote would complement the pear notes in the wine but I wasn’t convinced by the pairing. It was neutral at best to my taste.
Chateau la Nerthe Blanc 1993 by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
Poached prawn, pear compote, prosciutto bits, Madagascar vanilla bean oil powder by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
This was followed by two vintages of their top Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc called Clos de Beauvenir. This is from a one hectare vineyard that produces only about 3000 bottles annually. The 2010 has a pale cast, nose of talcum powder again, and with flavors of nuts and some tropical fruit. The 1990 was much darker, almost gold, with a strong oxidative note. I thought this was not showing well as it seemed hollow and tired. It reminded me of a very light amontillado sherry. Although it wasn't to my taste, Noel, who was seated beside me seems to have had a better opinion of this wine. The Beauvenirs were matched by an oven-poached spring chicken with butter and thyme, sautéed asparagus, soubise cream and savory almond crumbs. The 2010 was a great match for this dish, bringing out the creaminess in the wine while the wine cut the richness of the chicken. This was my favorite pairing of the dinner.
Clos de Beauvenir '90 and '2010 by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
Oven poached spring chicken with butter and thyme, sauteed aspargus, soubise cream and savory almond crumbs by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
Done with the whites, we moved on to the reds. First up were two of the regular Chateauneuf bottlings. The Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape 1988 was the oldest wine we had. This was still quite dark and with a strong earthy, barnyard, leather nose. Light to medium weight. There’s prune and some oxidation however, there is also some sweet black fruit still showing beneath the characteristics of age. There’s some meat as well. This was one of my favorite reds. Apparently, our table got one of the better bottles as Richard, one of our friends at another table complained that theirs was completely dead. I gave him a taste from our bottle and he thought it was much better than the one they were given. Served beside this was the Chateau La Nerthe Chateauneuf du Pape 2008. This was already quite soft with dark fruit and liquorice notes. Already good to drink but not showing too much character. This needs a few years to flesh out and develop more interesting nuances. These were matched by a very good home-made panzerotti with lamb ragout and prunes, eggplant salad, coffee jus and pink peppercorn husk. The match was spot-on. I wish the dish were bigger, though as it was only good for two forkfuls.
Chateau La Nerthe '88, '08 by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
Panzerotti stuffed with lamb ragout and prunes, eggplant salad, coffee jus and pink peppercorn husk by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
The highlight of the evening was the three magnums of the top wine Cuvee des Cadettes. The oldest of these magnums was the 1989. This is a rich wine with soft tannins. Very complex with leather, tar, asphalt, coffee and earth. There’s also still quite a bit of ripe dark berry present which gives some sweetness. Excellent wine. This was served alongside the 2009 Cuvee des Cadettes. Very primary, black fruits, plum and berry, cedar and espresso. Very good but obviously young and primary. These two were served with Braised beef cheeks and grilled sirloin, mushroom ragout, wilted sprout leaves and balsamic sauce. A good match. I preferred the beef cheeks, though, as the sirloin was a bit tough.
Braised beef cheeks and grilled sirloin, mushroom ragout, wilted sprout leaves and balsamic sauce by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
Cuvee des Cadettes '89, '99, 09 by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
The last Cuvee des Cadettes, the 1999, was served with the cheese course of Reblochon with chunky fig and walnut jam and oat cakes. This wine is still primary, showing all fruit. Sweet plum and blackberry; full and rich with soft tannins. Good to drink now but not really compelling at the moment. Needs more time.
Reblochon with fig and walnut jam, oatcakes by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr
The dinner ended with an excellent Bitter Belcolade dark chocolate and yuzu tart with cherries mascarpone and cocoa nib tuiles. Overall, it was a good dinner with an excellent showing by all the wines, except for the 1990 Beauvenir.
Bitter Belcolade dark chocolate and yuzu tart, cherries mascarpone and cocoa nib tuiles by jaylabrador.winesteward, on Flickr