2004 André-Michel Brégeon Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Reserve
This wine was aged for 89 months on it's lees, and bottled in February 2012. Brégeon's vines for this bottle are 40 years average age, and the soil contains gabbro, a dark alkaline volcanic rock similar to basalt (per David Lillie's article in AoE Number85). Rumors that André-Michel Brégeon may retire soon make me sad. I think he is one of the best winemakers in the Pays Nantais.
Delicious wine, but seems very young. The color is pale yellow, and the initial pour has a tingle of dissolved CO2. The nose is great, complex and expressive with a typical mix of Muscadet saline mineral and some lemon citrus and lees/yeast flavors. As it opens an anise seed note shows up on the back end. The texture is initially a little rough and prickly. This smooths out with air. The finish is persistent.
The prolonged lees contact adds a lot of richness which marries with the natural acidity of the melon grape very well. Given the acidity and balance I believe this should age effortlessly. I would even decant this for an hour or so if opening now.
This wine was purchased recently for about $27 which is on the high side for Muscadet, but this is one of the top bottles IMO and I think is still a great value for the quality.
ABV listed is 12%.