California trip reccos?

I will be in San Francisco in December and am additionally planning a trip north to the Napa, Sonoma etc. I was wondering if anyone could recommend wineries (I'm more interested in meet-the-winemaker type trips than generic cellar door, but the latter is fine too), (modestly priced) accommodation, or restaurants. Likewise any recommendations for restaurants in San Francisco itself.

I have a few things planned already, but would greatly appreciate any info from the group. Thanks!

Ben

Good to see you here Ben, that was fast!!!!! Hows things back home?

Good to see you here Ben, that was fast!!!!! Hows things back home?

Beat you to it actually - had already posted here before your message. Things good here. Yourself?

i'll try!
if there are any CA wineries you have particularly enjoyed, they why not write or email them and tell them that and that you will be in the area in dec. could you find out why their wines are so good - something like that. otherwise, do you know anyone in the industry who could set you up? otherwise, you could write to people you are interested in and just say you'd like to visit. can't hurt to ask!

i have a favorite restaurant in SF - but it is not often spoken of. i like french food and i like L'Olivier on Davis Court. there is also a little italian place on columbus, i think, whose name escapes me. very regional and small - on the right hand side as you go out from the water. it is very close to the hoyt tower. there is a nice wine shop at the triangle on the corner.

please don't miss the cable car museum. it is very interesting - and not surprisingly, on the cable car route. most people do not understand what the cable car really is all about. i like to watch the rythmic crab guys - break open the crabs for salads down by the warf. i also like the museum of carnival games down by the baths. hope you have a great time.

[Jenise]

Ben, it would also be helpful if you'd tell us something about your preferences in wine, any wines you're curious about trying, and how long you're going to be in that area. Napa and Sonoma are two distinct worlds and you could swallow a few days in each one easily.

I'll agree with Jenise vis a vis your own preferences, but even so, I have a few that I might recommend if you can get in. I like nice architecture and some artistry in my wine experience, so...

If you want a more personalized experience and are interested in quite high end (but worth it, imo), I might suggest Verite, which is a premium Jess Jackson estate witha French wine maker. Wine News actually has an article on the winemaker. Their second label, Archipel, is an amazing value for a California mountain vineyard Cabernet.

They sit you down with a small group, walk you through a tasting, including a comparison with a library wine. It's a lovely small winery in the beautiful Chalk Hill/Alexander Valley area. Alexander Valley is a beautiful, very rural, much less commercialized country cousin to Napa Valley. Plus, after Verite, you can visit the cutesy tourist town of Healdsburg, which has a lovely town square, plenty of yuppie "shoppes" and some great restaurants. Or-Jimtown Store can set you up with a nice gourmet sandwich and all the picnic items you need. A loveley place!

A second recommendation: Del Dotto Cellars and Caves. A small, family owned winery just east of the town of Napa. Cool 19th century stone building and a grotto/cave. I thoroughly enjoyed their peppery Syrah, and they have an amazing Bordeaux Blend. It's a pricy tour ($40), but you can just taste wines, as well, for less money.

For a more commercial winery experience, I found Merrivale quite enjoyable. This is a big, bustling, friendly place-about as far from Verite in feel and experience as you can get. But, you know, it was a lot of fun-full of blousy people with happy "wine smiles" and a competent crew. They have a really cool cask room that you can view from the tasting room floor. They can pour for you a variety of tasting options, including a nice veritcal of their premier (pricey) Bordeaux blend. Very enjoyable place and a good view of the tourist maelstrom that Napa can be

For an example of excellence in negociant wine production, I might recommend Elizabeth Spencer Wines in the heart of Rutherford, CA-across the street from the Beaulieu megacomplex and Rutherford Grill. Delicious savory wines across the board. Not spoofified sweet at all. The tasting room is located in a lovely small brick 19th century post office and is staffed by a very friendly crew. ES is my first "wine club" that I've every joined.

Sullivan Winery (call ahead) offers really fine restrained, delicious red wines in an artistic setting. Good stuff-very friendly crew.

Venge Vineyards (call ahead) has a cool ghost winery located off the beaten path east of Saint Helena. A very nicely done cave system, small family production. friendly, friendly people. I prefer their Merlot and thier Syrah (both tasty) to the estate cab. When I visited last, the winemaker was actually there testing the sugar levels in the fermenting vats.

Finally, if you are interested in some multi-winery tasting rooms, Napa Wine Company in Oakville offers quite a range of boutique wineries and a lovely array of picnic goods across the street at the amazing (but amazingly crowded) Oakville Grocery.

David and Brian, thanks for the info.

Jenise, to answer your question, I'll be in the general area for five or so days. Napa, Sonoma, Russian River Valley, Los Carneros regions are all possibilities. I intend to visit some of the big names in these areas, but I was really asking the group about wineries where it is possible to have a more personal meeting to talk about the wines with staff close to the winemaking. (I am aware that Napa particularly, for e.g., tends to be quite commercial and was looking for advice on wineries where I could have the opposite experience to this.) I'm truely interested in all styles and grape varieties, though if I had to put emphasis somewhere it would probably be on Cab Sauv, Bordeaux blends, Zin, Pinot Noir, Italian red varieties generally, Syrah, and Chardonnay.

Ben

[Jenise]

Ben, I get it. The kind of experience you're talking about would require appointments, because of course the winemaker is usually/often also the proprietor and has to carve time out of a busy day to meet with visitors. You would in fact not wish to impose on many if you're not buying. I'll give you one name: Swan. Hands-on owner/winemaker Rod Berglund is passionate and talented, and his wines are exceptional. Pinots and zins are his specialty.

Hey Ben,

My wife and I honeymooned in San Francisco this past January and spent a few days in Napa. It was a nice time to go - very little in the way of crowds so staff at the wineries were able to speak to us at length.

Our favourite visit was Truchard Vineyards in Carneros. They're just a couple of minutes outside Napa. Jo Ann Truchard gave us the tour and it was wonderful. Very friendly folks and good wines. You have to book an appointment - it's a small operation and they don't do drop-ins. But it was free

If you're looking for a quick bite in between wineries, I'd recommend V. Sattui. Their wine wasn't very good, but they have a great deli.

We also really enjoyed our tour at Chateau Montelena. Though we didn't meet the winemaker, our tour guide, a former negociant, was incredibly knowledgeable. He was also very generous with the pours. Again, you have to book ahead and there is a cost involved.

I intend to visit some of the big names in these areas, but I was really asking the group about wineries where it is possible to have a more personal meeting to talk about the wines with staff close to the winemaking.

Ben, without connections this is easier said than done in Napa nowadays, but here are two places where I've had good "synergies" with the folks who grow the grapes and make the wine.

Saviez Vineyards in Calistoga. E-mail Mike Saviez at mike@saviezvineyards.com for an appointment.

Goosecross Cellars in Yountville. Contact hospitality@goosecross.com to make arrangements. Be sure to tell these folks what you'd like.

Other places I've found congenial for the folks I schlepp through Sonoma and Napa are: Cline Cellars, Roche Winery, Bouchaine, Homewood, Frank Family Vineyards, and Ballentine.

Enjoy.

Jenise, Gary and Mike, many thanks for the info!

Hi Ben,
Check out the following websites:
Napa Valley Vintners Association http://www.napavintners.com/index.asp
Sonoma County Vintners http://www.sonomawine.com/

Salute

Hi Ben,

Don't I recognize your name from rec.crafts.winemaking? I haven't been there in a couple of years, (though I'm still making wine.) Do you still post there? Anyway, I've found that if you visit the Russian River wineries you're more likely to walk in on the winemaker and even see some real winemaking going on. As for restaurants in SF, some of my favorites (in no particular order) are:

Chapeau!
Quince
A16
B44
Gary Danko
Rubicon
Jardinaire
Three Seasons
Fringale
Bacar
Postrio

There are dozens of other great restaurants- It's a great food city.

Regards,

John

Victorwine, thanks for that.

John, yes you do recognise me from RCW. I don't really go there much anymore either (only a couple posts in the last year or so) - I just don't seem to get much out of it anymore unfortunately. Good to hear you're still making wine and many thanks for the SF restaurant list!

Ben

As a Native Californian...here's my suggestion:


Go [go] where you want to go, do [do] what you want to [want to] do.





[My apologies to the Mamas and Papas]