TomHill wrote:2. Back in the early '80's, there was a move towards making "food wines", mostly driven by the wine journalists of that day whining about the rising alcohol levels in the Calif wines, particularly Zinfandel. Does this sound a bit familiar?
The simple solution to making "food wines" was simply harvest the grapes early, thereby resulting in lower alcohol levels in the wine. This movement was an utter failure; the wines tasted underripe/thin/vapid and were generally lacking in flavor. They tasted...doh...like they were made by grapes harvested at underripe levels.
Fast forward 30 yrs (one of the few advantages of being an elder statesman). We've been hearing the last year or so the same whining from wine journalists of this era of high alcohol levels in Calif wines. We need more lower-alcohol wines. And a few winemakers have been heading this same/old siren song and striving for wines that are lower in alcohol. Some do it by simply watering back or hitting the wine w/ RO. Most of my favorites (Pax/WindGap, Arnot-Roberts, Massican, ForlornHope, Matthiasson; to name a few) do this (to my best knowledge) w/o resorting to this winemaking trickery. Yet the wines do not taste like the thin/vapid/eviscerated "food wines" of old. They are packed w/ flavor and speak more of things other than ripe fruit...like...maybe....gasp...even that "terroir" thing that everyone is yammering about. Not sure how they do it...but they are not (by and large) simply revisiting those dreadful "food wines" of the '80's.
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 18 guests