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October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

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October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by David M. Bueker » Sat Oct 01, 2011 11:48 am

Whether your choice is from Germany, Alsace, Austria, Australia, New Zealand the USA or anywhere else, come join us for a month of tasting and talking about Riesling!
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Rahsaan » Sat Oct 01, 2011 2:55 pm

Probably not common wines for folks around here, but I just finished my last bottles of 2009 Schloss Neuweier, the Mauer Wein Riesling GG and the Goldenes Loch Riesling GG. I've been drinking them since the spring and have gone back and forth on my preferences but always enjoyed myself.

The Mauer Wein is always so intense, pungent, and glorious, although it can tilt wild and loose. The Goldenes Loch is much more understated but with enough air usually becomes the more dazzling display of elegance and poise. On this last go round it didn't quite run enough to hit those heights and I was more taken with the easy pleasures of the Mauer Wein.

In an ideal world I'd follow them both over many years and wouldn't worry about which one was 'better'. But they're not sold in the US (to my knowledge) so I will have to wait for my next German connection.
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sat Oct 01, 2011 3:14 pm

Think I might revisit the Creekside Riesling from Ont. Tasted in-store last month, not bad for under $20.
I have a fair wine selection from the Rheingau and Mosel so here is a chance to clear out (?) some of them.
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Salil » Sat Oct 01, 2011 3:44 pm

Rahsaan wrote:Probably not common wines for folks around here, but I just finished my last bottles of 2009 Schloss Neuweier, the Mauer Wein Riesling GG and the Goldenes Loch Riesling GG. I've been drinking them since the spring and have gone back and forth on my preferences but always enjoyed myself.

The Mauer Wein is always so intense, pungent, and glorious, although it can tilt wild and loose. The Goldenes Loch is much more understated but with enough air usually becomes the more dazzling display of elegance and poise. On this last go round it didn't quite run enough to hit those heights and I was more taken with the easy pleasures of the Mauer Wein.

In an ideal world I'd follow them both over many years and wouldn't worry about which one was 'better'. But they're not sold in the US (to my knowledge) so I will have to wait for my next German connection.

The Schloss Neuweier wines are indeed very, very good (from the one chance I had to try them when you brought both GGs to Grand Sich). Shame they are not available here.

These days my dry Riesling focus has been mainly towards the cream of the Wachau - at a recent Steinertal dinner I was blown away by wine after wine from FX and Alzinger.
And an Alzinger Liebenberg Smaragd (proof that I don't *only* obsess over Singerriedel and Steinertal!) a few nights ago was tremendous, incredibly pure, minerally and delicate.
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Tim York » Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:38 pm

Rahsaan wrote:Probably not common wines for folks around here, but I just finished my last bottles of 2009 Schloss Neuweier, the Mauer Wein Riesling GG and the Goldenes Loch Riesling GG. I've been drinking them since the spring and have gone back and forth on my preferences but always enjoyed myself.



Rahsaan, from what regions do these wines come?
Tim York
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Rahsaan » Sat Oct 01, 2011 5:03 pm

Baden. Although for some reason I cannot figure out, they use the bocksbeutel. Perhaps an homage to family lineage?
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Mature Mosels

by Steve Slatcher » Sat Oct 01, 2011 5:44 pm

From a recent tasting with wines bought from Cambridge Wine Merchants. For more contexts, including links and German labels with exciting gothic scrip, see my blog post:
http://www.winenous.co.uk/wp/archives/2206

1997 Trabener Würzgarten Riesling, Hochgewächs QbA,
Werner Müller, 9.0%, £12.25
Very pale green. Muted nose. High acidity. Off dry. I thought it was a tad corked, but others in the room liked it *

1999 Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett,
Carl Schmitt-Wagner, 7.5%, £14.50
Pale yellow. Intense lime and petrol. Medium high acid. Medium sweet. Excellent length. Drink now ***

2004 Wiltinger Schlangengraben Riesling Spätlese,
Johann Peter Reinert, 8.0%, £12.90
A Pale green. Dumb, some lime. Medium high acid. Medium sweet. Intense lime. Someone said strawberry, and I can sort of see that. Excellent length. Needs a few more years ***

2002 Braunerberger Juffer Riesling Spätlese,
Fritz Becker Erben, 7.5%, £12.00
Pale gold. Soft, rounded petrol. Medium high acid. Medium sweet. Intense lime and some petrol ont he palate. Excellent length. Drink now or keep a few more years *****

1988 Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese,
Carl Schmitt-Wagner, 9.0%, £13.50
Medium deep gold. Intense barley sugar. Some chocolate, yes chocolate, the dark bitter stuff. Medium high acid. Medium dry. Interesting and complex. Drink now ****

1989 Burger Hahnenschrittchen Riesling Spätlese,
Werner Müller, 8.0%, £13.25
Medium gold. A nose of cat’s pee, sweaty armpits, or an ant killer spray I remember from many years ago. But not actually unpleasant! Medium high acid. Off dry. Interesting. Drink now ***

2002 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Auslese**,
Johann Peter Reinert, 7.5%, £15.00
Medium pale gold. Rather dumb. Medium high. Very sweet, to the extent that it is. I would give this the benefit of the doubt and say it needs more time, but I score on current enjoyment, so **

1994 Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Auslese,
Carl Schmitt-Wagner, 8.0%, £10.50
Sadly corked. Unequivocally so

1994 Burger Wendelstück Riesling Auslese,
Werner Müller, 8.0%, £15.25
Medium gold. Some cat’s pee, but also herbs and spice. High acid. Sweet. Well balanced and interesting. Drink now *****

1985 Braunerberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese,
Fritz Becker Erben, £12.50
Medium gold. Delicate spice and herbs. Medium high acid. Medium dry. Nice, relatively dry. Chocolate, again. Drink now. Probably my wine of the night *****
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Howie Hart » Sun Oct 02, 2011 10:14 am

Ed Draves posted this link on FB: Drink Riesling
Chico - Hey! This Bottle is empty!
Groucho - That's because it's dry Champagne.
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Matt D » Sun Oct 02, 2011 12:53 pm

I heard Chateau Ste Michelle (Washington) was pretty famous for their Rieslings so I gave some a try last week. I wasn't that impressed though :? I haven't really enjoyed anything I have tried from Ste Michelle unfortunately. Anyone have a similar (or opposite) experience? I just moved to Washington so I am really trying to support the locals.
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by David Lole » Sun Oct 02, 2011 3:46 pm

Most probably greatest single thing done for riesling in Australia has been the introduction of the screwcap. Last night I opened a 2002 Barossa Valley Estate Eden Valley Riesling under screwcap and what a terrific, fresh example. Paid about 10 bucks for this and what a treat it will be for the next decade (hopefully more).
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Salil » Sun Oct 02, 2011 4:04 pm

There needs to be more screwcapped Riesling here in the US.

A few producers have put lower pradikats/entry level wines under screwcap, but it's incredibly annoying that very few high end wines come with a guarantee they won't be corked.

Particularly grumpy about this after a 2005 Schmitt-Wagner Spatlese was corked last night.
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Bruce Hayes » Sun Oct 02, 2011 6:37 pm

Karlo Estate Riesling 2010
Prince Edward County (Ontario)
Light yellow in the glass.
Spicy, floral nose.
Medium weight, honey, ruby grapefruit, lemon, mandarin oranges, very juicy, rich, good acidity, just off-dry, spicy.
Mouthwatering, light citrus rind on the finish.
Delicious and quite gulpable.
Purchased at the winery.
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Re: Mature Mosels

by Steve Slatcher » Sun Oct 02, 2011 6:58 pm

Steve Slatcher wrote:2002 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Auslese**,
Johann Peter Reinert, 7.5%, £15.00
Medium pale gold. Rather dumb. Medium high. Very sweet, to the extent that it is. I would give this the benefit of the doubt and say it needs more time, but I score on current enjoyment, so **

Opps. I missed out a word, and I cannot edit my original post due to a technical hitch. here is how it should be
:.

2002 Kanzemer Altenberg Riesling Auslese**,
Johann Peter Reinert, 7.5%, £15.00
Medium pale gold. Rather dumb. Medium high. Very sweet, to the extent that it is unbalanced. I would give this the benefit of the doubt and say it needs more time, but I score on current enjoyment, so **
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WTN: 2006 Kerpen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese *

by David M. Bueker » Sun Oct 02, 2011 8:00 pm

Well, age hasn't tamed it. This is still a big, burly wine that is more like gold capsule auslese in style than spatlese. That said it's a tasty gold capsule auslese, but don't invite it to dinner. Tons of honeyed peaches dominate the nose and palate, and with all that fruit as well as a healthy dose of spice, it's hard to cut through this to see any underlying minerality. This is still a baby.
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by David M. Bueker » Sun Oct 02, 2011 8:01 pm

Matt D wrote:I heard Chateau Ste Michelle (Washington) was pretty famous for their Rieslings so I gave some a try last week. I wasn't that impressed though :? I haven't really enjoyed anything I have tried from Ste Michelle unfortunately. Anyone have a similar (or opposite) experience? I just moved to Washington so I am really trying to support the locals.


Chateau Ste. Michelle has done some decent things with Riesling in the past (notably a 1995 Icewine), but lately their efforts have been sub-par. They are more a volume brand than a quality brand.
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Bill Hooper » Mon Oct 03, 2011 4:14 am

That brings up a good question. Who is making the best Washington Riesling these days? Top 5?

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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Bill Hooper » Mon Oct 03, 2011 4:26 am

Salil wrote:There needs to be more screwcapped Riesling here in the US.

A few producers have put lower pradikats/entry level wines under screwcap, but it's incredibly annoying that very few high end wines come with a guarantee they won't be corked.

Particularly grumpy about this after a 2005 Schmitt-Wagner Spatlese was corked last night.


Hi Salil,

There is concern about the evolution (or lack of evolution) of wines sealed under screwcap. I love screwcap for early drinkers, but for the long-term, I like what DIAM purports to offer. They haven't been in business long enough to know for sure, but it looks promising. The romance isn't what remains appealing about cork, it is the function.

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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Bill Hooper » Mon Oct 03, 2011 4:51 am

2010 Weingut A. Christmann Riesling Trocken –Pfalz, Germany 12,0%

Biodynamic

Damn! Peaches, honey, quince and Mirabelle plums (is 2010 the year of the Mirabelle for Pfalz Riesling?), mint, and shortbread. Sappy and luscious and although not deacidified, it is certainly not vicious in its acidity, but fresh and long. I need to retry a wine or two from earlier in the year, but Christmann is so far my winery of the year for the Pfalz. Yessir, Damn!

2009 Weingut Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett –Rheingau, Germany 8,5% alc.

It is all peaches and cream, baby. Dried apricot, pineapple, cherry blossoms and allspice. Beautiful and delicious and quite sweet, but balanced.

Cheers,
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by David M. Bueker » Mon Oct 03, 2011 5:53 am

I'm not really sure I can count out a top 5 in Washington Riesling. It seems to have faded away out there. I never see anything except the basic Chateau Ste Michelle and the Eroica on local shelves.
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Bill Hooper » Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:40 am

2009 Villa Pistoria Riesling –Deutscher Wein 12% alc.

Unfiltriert

This is the second vintage that I’ve gotten to taste from Villa Pistoria, a micro-weingut of 1 ha located in Bad Bergzabern, on the fringe of the Südliche Weinstraße of the Pfalz. They make two Rieslinge; a nice, simple, lighter wine (bottled in a shouldered, Bordeaux bottle); and this –which is where IT’S AT, Y’ALL. Not as bracingly acidic as the 2008, nor with the intense citrus flavor, but still…

It starts off with granny smith apple and Orange marmalade, then a lot of peel, and zest, and dried-fruit flavors followed by some ancient gingery spice blend. Not so much floral as it is pungent. Unabashedly pre-industrial wine by design and by necessity (tough to pay off the Bucher press and the new Fendt tractor with 1 ha.) But artisanal indeed, if you’re not too opposed to that word. I’d like to see some more acid, but I guess I’ll be waiting for 2010. That thought scares me a little.

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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Bill Hooper » Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:42 am

David M. Bueker wrote:I'm not really sure I can count out a top 5 in Washington Riesling. It seems to have faded away out there. I never see anything except the basic Chateau Ste Michelle and the Eroica on local shelves.


That surprises me a little, seeing how Riesling is becoming more popular. I never see any notes though. Even from the NWers.
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Andrew Bair » Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:19 pm

Rahsaan wrote:Baden. Although for some reason I cannot figure out, they use the bocksbeutel. Perhaps an homage to family lineage?



Hi Rahsaan -

Thank you for the notes. I've never had the Schloss Neuweier wines - is there a NY area importer? Andreas Laible is still the only Baden Riesling that I have ever had.

As far as the bocksbeutels, I remember reading that they have traditionally been used in one particular section of Baden. Maybe someone else can fill us in a bit more on the specifics. Oddly enough, I once had a Trentino Moscato Giallo in a bocksbeutel of sorts -alas, it was corked.


As far as this monthly topic - haven't actually opened a Riesling over the past three days, but will definitely do so before long.
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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Rahsaan » Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:46 pm

Interesting info about the sub-region dynamics of Baden.

Andrew Bair wrote:
Thank you for the notes. I've never had the Schloss Neuweier wines - is there a NY area importer?


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Re: October Wine Focus - Riesling, Riesling & more Riesling

by Andrew Bair » Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:58 pm

Matt D wrote:I heard Chateau Ste Michelle (Washington) was pretty famous for their Rieslings so I gave some a try last week. I wasn't that impressed though :? I haven't really enjoyed anything I have tried from Ste Michelle unfortunately. Anyone have a similar (or opposite) experience? I just moved to Washington so I am really trying to support the locals.



Hi Matt -

I did try the 2010 Chateau Ste Michelle Riesling late in September, so it really doesn't qualify for the October Wine Focus. Nevertheless, it was a decent, inexpensive American Riesling - technically well made, polished, with cool minerality; and certainly quite respectable, given the quantity of it that is made. The problem is that you can get a noticeably superior Riesling from the Mosel, Pfalz, or Rheingau for a couple of more dollars (see Leitz Dragonstone, Sybille Kuntz QbA Trocken, Zilliken Butterfly, or the liter Rieslings from Darting).

The dry CSM Riesling has been lackluster, however. Also, I would definitely opt for one of Ernie Loosen's Mosel Kabinetts or Spatlesen for roughly the same price of the Eroica, which continues to promise more than it delivers. Perhaps coincidentally, the first vintage of Eroica that I ever tried (2003) was easily my favorite. I don't know if the quality has slipped, my palate has changed with experience, or most likely, some of both.
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