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WTN: Some Horton wines, briefly.

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Clinton Macsherry

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WTN: Some Horton wines, briefly.

by Clinton Macsherry » Thu Oct 05, 2006 3:24 pm

From last weekend's Winefest on the Beach in Ocean City, Maryland. As usual, Horton from Virginia won my very own exceedingly official "Best of Fest" award. But don't get complacent, Horton winemaking staff (Neil Glaser, you lurker, this means you!)--long lines all afternoon kept me from tasting Williamsburg's usually pretty good line-up, Brotherhood from upstate NY had a decent bunch of wines, and the MondoVino distributor reps (they had the name before the movie) were pouring some darn tasty international ringers and closing them out for a Lincoln apiece. Good thing I'd forgotten to drive my forklift.


Horton Rkatsiteli 2004

I don't have a clue about how this stacks up to wines made in the grape's native Russian Georgia, but Horton's "R-Kats" (as they nickname it) could give Muscadet a run for the world's best oyster wine. Pale and rainwatery, with crisp citric flavors, some yellow zest, and underlying minerality. Not particularly complex, but clean, clear, and tangy, with quality that stays apparent even as the wine warms (often a mark of a good white, for me). $14.


Horton Bin 2000 Stonecastle Red NV

Though technically nonvintage, most of the grapes are from 2000, if I'm correctly recalling how Horton usually handles this blend. According to the website (http://www.hvwine.com), it's 32% Mourvedre, 27% Carignan, 25% Syrah, 5% Tinta Cao, 5% Touriga Nacional, 3% Tannat, and 1% each of Nebbiolo, Malbec and Cab Franc. A big bruiser, and I had the purple tongue to prove it, but with decent acidity and intriguing spice notes to teach it some manners. $12 (a good buy).


Horton Tannat 2001

This took a gold medal at Virginia's 2006 Governor's Cup Wine Competition. Inky color, blackberry and dark fruit aromas with a few red shadings, leathery and tannic in the mouth. Impressive length. Wish I'd gotten back for more. $20.


Horton Norton 2003

I've never warmed up to Norton in the past, but this seemed different--plums, peppery spice, fresh acidity and attractive structure. (Had to be palate fatigue.) $12.


Horton Port 2000

A blend of 36% Norton, 36% Touriga Nacional, and 28% Tinta Cao. I've thoroughly enjoyed this in the past, although I think it was a different vintage. In any case, this bottle (or what I tasted of it) didn't ring the same bells. The caramel and dried fruit pieces seemed to be in place, but without the breadth or depth I recall. $20.
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