WTN: 1970 Cockburns port

[Jenise]

Really nicely resolved, a port that for my tastes was just where I'd want most ports to be--soft and rounded, with the alchohol just not showing at all. Lighter than medium rose color with a tawny hue, with poached white cherry, stone fruit and cinnamon taffy notes. Less sediment than expected: we didn't decant or pour through a filter, and we only had to toss about an ounce.

[Roy Hersh]

IMHO, this is past its prime. Still on a plateau where it is tasting good, but this headed south about 8-10 years ago in terms of being in its prime. Fully mature if not into the beginnings of its Tawny phase, there is no rush to open remaining bottles, but I certainly would do so over the course of the balance of this decade. Just my two cents.

[Jenise]

IMHO, this is past its prime. Still on a plateau where it is tasting good, but this headed south about 8-10 years ago in terms of being in its prime. Fully mature if not into the beginnings of its Tawny phase, there is no rush to open remaining bottles, but I certainly would do so over the course of the balance of this decade. Just my two cents.

Roy thanks, this was my last bottle. But tell me something, is the "tawny phase" considered OTH or just another plateau further down from the peak on it's way out?

[Roy Hersh]

Great question Jenise.

In comparing a VP to the life cycle of a human, the "Tawny Phase" would equate to the sixties and seventies of a person. Filled with aged wisdom and experience the wine develops to show tertiary flavors. I don't see this as being over-the-hill, just past its prime of life. It may stay in this realm for a short or very long time, depending on the vintage/producer.

I hope this is clear enough.

[Jenise]

Roy, very clear. Also clear, when you use a word like "tertiary", why I liked the wine better now when a better-trained port palate would have preferred it earlier.

[Bob Henrick]

Roy, very clear. Also clear, when you use a word like "tertiary", why I liked the wine better now when a better-trained port palate would have preferred it earlier.

Jenise, there is nothing wrong about tertiary flavors and aromas in ANY wine. Not all of us are looking for the young seductress in an evening gown.

[Mike Filigenzi]

Jenise, there is nothing wrong about tertiary flavors and aromas in ANY wine. Not all of us are looking for the young seductress in an evening gown.

Well, not in our wine, anyway.....


Mike

[Roy Hersh]

It is all about personal tastes. I know a lot of folks who prefer their VP at 3-10 years of age. They get a real kick (in the teeth) from the abundant vibrant upfront fruit and incredible structural components. The WOW factor can be enjoyed by folks who say, drink their 2002 Merus, Sloan or Insignias this year.

Then there are the Port lovers who like some age on their Vintage Ports and between 10 and 20 years old find the purity of the still ruby based fruit with softer tannins, more interesting.

The majority of Vintage Port lovers like how the mature Vintage Port at 20 to 40 years old drinks. It is here that the secondary characteristics normally show themselves as well as the harmony between fruit and tannins. With the best examples like many of the 1966 and 1970 VPs today, they are still drinking fabulously and some are still improving ... 1966 Dow and 1970 Fonseca are just two great examples.

Some of us (me included) love the 40-60 year old wines that are fully mature in most cases. Almost all 1963, 1955, 1948 and 1945 fit into this category. The best wines from these vintage are normally drinking near their peak of performance and although great, are no longer getting any better.

You've already heard about the next phase in my response above. The one where the tertiary flavors kick in.

After that you have wines that may live on a long plateau and a few great wines like Vargellas, Niepoort and Burmester from 1912 fit into this mold, as do VPs like Cockburn, Dow and Taylor 1927 for example.

[Jenise]

Roy, thanks for all that. For awhile, I was wondering if I might not switch to the first category because I so loved the 97 Warres (a brand I've never otherwise been particularly taken with) as a baby. But, no fear, I've reverted. Give me tawny/tertiarary.

Another question while I've got you on the phone. I used to routinely wake up with a headache any time I had port the night before. Didn't happen with this Cockburns. I know the headache problem is common enough among wine/port drinkers--do you know if it's less likely to happen with older ports?

[Roy Hersh]

I have no idea but I've read that it is less likely to happen if you take an antihistamine before drinking it ... for those that do get the headaches.