I inflicted on our SantaFe group a tasting of OltrepoPavese wines last night
(8/28/06), mostly Bonardas:
1. Martilde Bonarda DOC:OltrepoPavese (14%) 2003: Med.dark color; fairly earthy/dusty some
pungent almost closed nose w/ precious little fruit; earthy/dusty fairly hard/tannic
tart slight licorice/pungent flavor w/ quite little fruit; fairly long hard/tannic
earthy Dolcetto-like finish; maybe needs some age; much like Dolcetto in structure.
$16.50
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2. Martilde OltrepoPavese Bonarda (13%) 2001: Dark color; earthy/dusty slight black cherry
cola/licorice bit Dolcetto-like more perfumed nose; softer/lusher some black cherry cola/
pungent/licorice bit tannic flavor; med.long softer some tannic black cherry cola/licorice
finish; much like the '03 but a bit more fragrance and softer. $12.00
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3. Martilde Ghiro d'Inverno Rosso (Bonarda; 14%) OltrepoPavese 1998: Very dark color; quite
earthy/dusty some grapey/Dolcetto-like slight black cherry cola slight pungent/burnt/oak
some complex nose; rather hard/tannic licorice/pungent/DrPepper/cola/black cherry light
toasty/oak flavor; med.long big/extracted slight pungent/licorice/black cherry cola
pretty hard/tannic finish; needs age; pretty hard & tannic on palate. $30.00
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4. BrunoVerdi Buttafuoco DOC OltrepoPavese (13.5%; http://www.MadRose.com) 2003: Very dark color;
strong grapey/black cherry cola/some Dolcetto-like bit smokey/smoked sausage interesting
nose; softer/lush black cherry cola/Dolcetto-like dusty rather hard/tannic flavor; med.
long grapey/black cherry cola/DrPepper rather hard/tannic flavor; med.long quite hard/
tannic grapey/cola dusty finish; pretty concentrated but hard & tannic. $19.00
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5. Fratelli Agnes Possessione del Console Bonardo "Pignolo" (13.5%) OltrepoPavese 2001:
Dark color; earthy/dusty slight licorice/pungent/black cherry/cola nose; softer fairly
lush bit tannic licorice black cherry cola some Dolcetto-like flavor; med.short low fruit
somewhat tannic slight fruit/black cherry cola finish; a rather rough & rustic red.
$15.00
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6. FratelliAgnes Cresta del Ghiffi Bonarda DOC: OltroPavese (11.5%) Rovescala 2003: Dark
color; strong grapey/licorice/spicy/RC Cola some Lambrusco-like nose; frizzante off-dry
very grapey/black cherry cola/RC cola some tannic flavor; bit tannic/bitey frizzante
black cherry cola/quite grapey finish; much like a Lambrusco in style but bigger and
richer; very interesting wine & great w/ the salamis. $15.00
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7. FratelliAgnes Millenium Bonarda DOC: OltrepoPavese (14%) 1999: Med.dark color; pungent/
smokey/bit charred/toasty/oak rather licorice/grapey somewhat perfumed/aromatic nose;
softer/rounder/smoother somewhat black cherry/cola/gamey/licorice light toasty/charred/
oak fairly tannic flavor; med.long hard/tanic some black cherry/cola/licorice finish;
has some toasty Fr.oak to it; bit pricey. $28.00
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8. FratelliAgnes Poculum RTW (Affinato in Barriques; 13.5%; Bonarda/old vine Barbera/Pinot)
NV (2003): Black color; rather toasty/smokey/charred/oak some black cherry/cola/DrPepper/
spicy fragrant/perfumed interesting nose; very tannic/hard smokey/toasty/oak light black
cherry/licorice/pungent flavor; long toasty/charred/oak somewhat hard/tannic fairly
light black cherry/pungent finish; has a pretty strong hit of oak. $24.00
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9. Picchioni Buttafuoco DOC: OltrepoPavese (13.5%) CannetoPavese 1999: Verydark color;
strong black cherry/cola/licorice dusty/old vines rather fragrant/perfumed some complex
nose; softer/rounder licorice/black cherry/cola dusty/earthy some tannic flavor; long
dusty/earthy black cherry/cola/licorice some tannic finish; more approachable and my
favorite of the bunch; great value at $16.00
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10. Picchioni BriccoRivaBianca/Buttafuoco DOC: OltrepoPavese (14%) 2000: Black color; bit
reduced/gunpowder/pungent quite charred/burnt/oak some licorice nose; soft/round/ripe
very smokey/charred/burnt/toasty/oak light black cherry cola/licorice flavor; long
pungent/smokey/charred/oak bit tannic light black cherry/cola some dusty finish w/
modest tannins; underneath a pretty good wine but slammed w/ new Fr.oak. $32.00
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11. FrancaPellegrini Falco della Solinga/Buttafuoco DOC: OltropoPavese (Barbera/Uva rara/
Croatina + Ughetta della Solinga; 13.5%) CannetoPavese NV (1998): Dark color; very strong
unpleasant/wet dog fur/funky rather oxidized no fruit nose; funky/wet dog fur bit tannic/
dried out no fruit flavor; med. wet dog fur/oxidized/funky no fruit finish w/ some
tannins; seems pretty funky & oxidized; DNPIM. $18.00
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12. FrancaPellegrini Mandorla della Solinga DOC: Rosso OltropoPavese (Old vine Croatina;
14%) NV (1998): Dark color; bit alcoholic gunpowder/used fireworks/funky/wet dog fur
somewhat oxidized slight licorice/pungent nose; softer some wet dog fur/oxidized slight
lush/licorice/earthy slight cola/fruit flavor; med.long wet dog fur/funky slight licorice
rather funky finish w/ some tannins; not as funky/oxidized as #11 but pretty off. $19.00
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13. FrancaPellegrini Bricco della Solinga/Buttafuoco DOC: OltropoPavese (Croatina/Barbera/
UvaRara/Ughetta della Solinga; 13.5%) 2003: Very dark color; rather toasty/oak strong
black cherry/licorice/cola/DrPepper lots of fruit nose; softer/rounder rather charred/toasty/
oak strong black cherry/cola/licorice fairly tannic flavor; long toasty/smokey/oak strong
black cherry/blackberry/dusty fairly tannic finish; lots of fruit therein beneath all the
Fr.oak; needs several yrs perhaps. $29.00
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14. FrancoPellegrini PassioneRossa VinoAromatizzato Alla China (Ingredienti: VinoButtafuoco
OP DOC; Zucchero; Alcool; China e infuso di erbe e spezie; 16%) Cannerlo Pavese NV: Med.
dark color; very strong/perfumed/aromatic herbal/spicy/thyme nose; slightly sweet very
herbal/bitter chocolaty/spicy quite complex flavor; very long/lingering herbal/spicy/
bitter finish; a very intriguing wine; one of the best (of a dozen or so) Chinatos I've
ever had; kudos to Roberto. $46.00
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And the usual ramblings from the BloodyPulpit:
1. When arranging this tasting, I thought it would be nice to have some artisanal
salamis to accompany the wines. They were:
a. DiBrunoBros. Sweet Toscano Salami (http://www.DiBruno.com)
b. D'Artagnon WildBoar Saucisson
c. DonaJuana Soria Brand Sausage (http://www.DonaJuana.com) LaEspanola Meats/Spanish Table
d. Fra'Mani Salametto/Paul Bertoli
e. Salumi DryCured Salami (http://www.SalumiCuredMeats.com)/Armandino Batali
f. Salumi Mole Salami
They were a big hit. I'm not to sure who makes the DiBruno salami. The DonaJuana is made
by LaEspanola Meats in Harbor City and one of my favorite Chorizos. The Fra'Mani comes from
Paul Bertoli's now operation in Oakland. The Salumi ones are from Armandino Batali up
in Seattle. Because of demand, they're getting harder & harder to obtain, alas. The WildBoar
I found a bit on the bland side, but the others were terrific. Beats OscarMeyer anyday.
Pig parts rule.
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2. Most of these wines came from Roberto at WineExpo in SantaMonica. An absolute treasure
when it comes to Italian wines, sparkling wines, and finer Coturris.
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3. I've been making it a task to search out some of the lesser known Italian wines to get
an understanding of them and widen our horizans. Alas, the wines were widely disliked
by the tasting group....they did not taste like the Piedmontese or Tuscan wines they
far prefer. As a group, I thought they had this hard/tannic backbone that was pretty
brutal on the palate. For most of them, there was a distinct earthy/dusty note on the
nose w/ a slightly black cherry character. The ones the group seemed to like the most
were the ones that had a notable French oak component. Sigh!! The frizzante/slightly sweet
Ghiffi was widely viewed as flawed by those who knew Italian wines. I thought it rather a
neat wine and, as Paul Bertoli suggest for Lambrusco, a perfect foil for the salamis.
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4.Bonarda: In the Oltrepo, this is the local name for Croatina. In the Vaseline, Bonarda refers to the
Uva Rara grape. Then there is Bonarda Piedmontese, which is a near-extinct indigeneous variety
unrelated to the others. There is a sizeable planting of "Bonarda" in Argentina. But this "Bonarda"
is, in fact, the same as the California Charbono, known in France as Charboneau or Douce Noir.
There appears to be no planting of either Croatina or Bonarda in California.
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5. From the Net:
Oltrepo Pavese DOC:
[ohl-TRAY-poh pah-VEH-zuh] Large DOC zone located in the southwestern corner of Italy's
Lombardy region, south of Pavia. Two of the designated wines-Buttafuoco (which means "sparks
like fire") and Sangue di Giuda ("blood of Judas") can only be produced in a smaller subzone
located in the northeastern part. These two red wines are made from Barbera, Croatina, Pinot Nero
(pinot noir), Uva Rara, and Ughetta (Vespolina). They both can be still but are usually frizzante.
The Buttafuoco is dry; the Sangue di Giuda ranges from dry to sweet. These same grapes are used
for the Oltrepo Pavese rosso and rosato. Other wines made include the red varietals Barbera,
Bonarda (Croatina) and Pinot Nero and the white varietals Cortese, Moscato (muscat), Pinot Grigio
(pinot gris), Riesling Italico (Welshriesling), and Riesling Renano (riesling). Many of these are
allowed to be frizzante (some spumante) and can range from dry to sweet.
________________
6. So...what do I think of Bonarda?? As Bill The Cat would say..."Pfffhhhhtttt". This tasting did
not make a good case for Bonarda as the next great variety. It tastes not at all like Sangiovese
or Nebbiolo. That's the problem with the Italian wine industry...they make too friggin' many different
wines. They can't even call the same grape by the same name in different regions!! As strong and
well-focused and smoothly-run as is the Italian government, you'd think they'd enact rules or
legislation to insure naming consistency!!
There are a lot of indiginous varieties there that are relatively obscure. They're obscure
for a reason...they deserve to be. The sooner they are allowed to go extinct, the better. Like the
Mora barn owl and the Rosedale black cockroach, there's no real need for these species in the world.
If I were a grower in Pavia, I'd rip out all my old Bonarda vines and put in Cabernet and Merlot,
buy some new French oak, and make a world class wine from them. This rustic/peasant Bonarda dreck
is NOT worth anyone's time and effort to drink. There's just too darn many grape varieties in the
world as it is.
It's sorta like Viognier. When I first tasted the Grillet and Vernay in the early '70's,
they were kinda pretty wines, but not that exciting. There was only something like 20 acres in the
world and the grape was on the brink of extinction. I recently tasted thru 8 Viogniers from Lodi,
Clarksburg, and DunniganHills. They were all soft/fat/porky/Pillsbury-DoughBoy wines w/ a rather
candied nose. The sooner Viognier becomes extinct, the better. Chardonnay makes a great/world-class/
serious wine; that's all we really need in this world. End of rant.
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7. Bonarda aging: Most of these Bonardas had a rather hard/tannic, fairly acidic backbone to them. I
wonder if they have what it takes to age and turn into something interesting/good. Or if they're
like Piedmontese Dolcetto, whose structure they remind me of, and won't age worth diddly-squat.
The only data point I have is wines 1 and 2. The '01 had more of a fragrance and perfume to it
than the '03. The two '98's did not make a good case for aging Bonarda, though.
________________
8. Take a rustic/peasant/country Italian wine...slap it upside the head w/ a healthy dose of new
French oak....voila....a pedigreed super-whatever Italian wine worth an additional $15/btl!!
Whatta simple formula.
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9. I was gitting a lot of Dolcetto-like character in many of these Bonardas. Not so much in the
aroma or flavor as in the structure and mouth feel. For this comparison, I was highly ridiculed
by the group. Although Dolcetto is widely acclaimed to be a soft/drinkable almost Beaujolais-
like wine meant for early drinking; I find lots of them to be on the acidic side with a bitey/
tannic mean streak under all the fruit. That character I was finding in many of these Bonardas.
Of course, since I've not been to Piedmonte, I know nothing of Dolcetto in its native/authentic
guise.
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And then last night (8/30/06) I inflicted on my group another set of Some Obscure Northern
Italian Wines:
1. AloisLageder Portico dei Leoni IGT: Vigneti della DolomitiRosso (Merlot/Cabernet/Lagrein;
http://www.Lageder.com; 13%) 2002: Med.dark color; strong black curranty/earthy/minerally low kep/smokey/
pungent/oak almost Burgundian/smokey very attractive nose; tart earthy/dusty/minerally black
curranty/slight herbal/grapey/blackberry some smokey/oak very interesting flavor; long dusty/
earthy some toasty/smokey/oak minerally/black curranty/plummy finish w/ some tannins; much like
a Friuli Merlot w/ structure; quite an attractive red w/ good minerality; good price at $16.00
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2. Martilde Martuffo del gliane (PinotNero; 13%) 1998: Med.light color; unpleasant wet dog fur/
oxidized/tired nose w/ no fruit left; tart dried out/tired/wet dog fur/oxidized flavor w/ no
fruit; this wine as see'd better days (I presume). $18.00
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3. CabanoN Augurio IGT: Provincia di Pavia (13%; 60% Croatina) 2003: Med.color; quite earthy/dusty/
walnutty some plummy/black cherry/licorice/grapey nose; tart bit thin/lean fairly tannic quite
dusty/earthy low fruit slight plummy/black cherry flavor; med.long bit thin fairly tannic low
fruit finish; passable rustic/rough peasant red. $14.00
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4. Fratelli Agnes Vignazzo Croatina (13.5%) IGT Provincia di Pavia NV: Dark color; very fragrant
very spicy/black cherry/cola/cherry cough syrup/DrPepper/plummy slight tarry loads of fruit nose;
big/ripe/lush very strong plummy/black cherry/cola/cough syrup rather tannic/bitey some pungent/
earthy/tarry flavor; long rich/lush grapey/plummy/black cherry/cola/DrPepper quite spicy/fragrant
finish w/ fair tannins; needs several yrs; huge fruit w/ lots of interesting things; great
structure and balance; great price. $22.00
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5. Fontanarossa DOC: OltrepoPavese RossoRiserva (13%) CantineVilide/Stradella 1998: Dark color; bit
tired/aged earthy slight smokey/tobaccoy little fruit nose; tart/elegant bit tired/dried out
slight tobaccoy/smokey no fruit old Chianti-like flavor; med.short tired/dried out/tannic light
tobaccoy finish; rather tired & aged. $20.00
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6. Marco Donati Sangue di Drago DOC: TeroldegoRotaliano (13%) Mezzocorona 2002: Very dark color;
intense blackberry/very plummy/Mourvedre-like loads of fruit slight toasty/oak slight dusty/cola
very interesting nose; softer very lush licorice/plummy/blackberry huge fruit bit toasty/smokey/oak
some tannic flavor; med.long lush licorice/plummy/boysenberry bit toasty/oak some tannic finish;
needs a few yrs; loaded w/ ripe fruit, great structure, and a gentle hand w/ the oak; very
attractive yet distinctive wine; some like Mourvedre. $45.00
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7. Tenuta Uccellina Burson IGT: RavennaRosso (13%) 2003: Very dark color; quite earthy/dusty/walnutty/
loamy rather plummy/grapey/quite spicy classic Longanesi varietal nose; tart bit tannic walnutty/
earthy plummy/grapey/meaty quite spicy/fairly lush flavor; long bit tannic walnutty/loamy very
plummy/spicy slight metallic/minerally finish; very classic Longanesi varietal character; a very
interesting rustic Italian wine at a good price. $17.00
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8. Tenuta Uccellina Burson IGT: RavennaRosso (14.5%) 2002: Very dark/black color; rather alcoholic
very ripe/overripe/pruney very intense grapey/black currant syrup/pomegranate molasses/licorice/
jammy rather Recioto-like some PasoRobles Syrah-like unusual nose; soft some tannic very ripe/
overripe/raisened/pruney licorice/pomegranate syrup/plummy slight oaked very jammy flavor; long
somewhat tannic very ripe/pruney licorice late harvesty/jammy finish; very much like a dry
Recioto w/ not nearly the interest of the '03; maybe more attractive w/ some blue cheeses.
$26.00
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9. Girolamo Dorigo Schioppettino DOC: ColliOrientali del Friuli (12.5%) Buttrio 2003:Med.dark color;
earthy bit blackberry/grapey strange gunpowder/metallic/used fireworks interesting nose; tart
bit lean/hard earthy somewhat metallic/blackberry/plummy fairly earthy/pungent flavor; med.long
bit tannic/hard minerally/earthy/metallic finish; somewhat interesting but rather strange wine.
$25.00
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10. Borgo di Fradis DOC: Colli Orientali del Friuli Schioppettino Troi Dal Tas (12.5%)
2002: Med.dark color; very pungent/smokey/charred/burnt/oak low fruit slight musty/corked nose;
tart very charred/burnt/forest fire/oak dusty/hard slight blueberry flavor; med.short charred/
burnt/oak little fruit finish w/ some hard tannins; pretty heavily slammed w/ well toasted oak;
maybe just a bit corked that robbed it of its fruit. $32.50
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11. Picchioni Rosso d'Asia IGT: Provincia Do Pavia (14%) 2001: Very dark color; rather minerally/
gunpowder/metallic/iodine/gunflint earthy/dusty slight black cherry/fruit interesting nose;
tart some lean/tannic/hard minerally/gunpowder/used fireworks bit DrPepper/cola/dusty slight
black cherry fruit flavor; Med.long bit hard/tannic minerally/gunpowder slight licorice/pungent/
cola finish; interesting but sorta strange wine. $27.00
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12. Pichioni DOC OltrepoPavese Sangue di Guida (9%) 2003: Very dark color; earthy/dusty DrPepper/
black cherry cola huge/grapey/soda pop slight licorice nose; tart slight frizzante very grapey/
strawberry/black cherry cola/Nehi soda pop slightly sweet bit licorice/dusty flavor; med.short
very grapey/soda pop/black cherry/jammy/DrPepper finish w/ little tannins; a lovely bright/
frivolous very grapey wine for non-serious drinking at a great price. $10.00
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13. BrunoVerdi Sangue di Giuda Paradiso DOC: OltrepoPavese Sweet RW (8%; http://www.MadRose.com;
65% Croatina, 20% UvaRara, 15% Barbera) 2004: Very dark/black color; intensely grapey/Lambrusco-
like/black cherry/juicy/soda pop/RCCola some earthy/dusty loads of grapey fruit nose; tart
very grapey/black cherry/cola/RCCola no frizzante off-dry/slightly sweet flavor; long intensely
grapey/black cherry cola slightly sweet finish w/ light tannins; great drinking stuff. $15.00
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14. Cascina Ca'Rosso Birbet Mosto ParzialmenteFermentato (5.5%) Ferrio Angelo/Canale NV: Very light
color; lovely perfumed/fragrant Nehi strawberry soda pop/laser-bright alpine strawberry some
lactic/Philadelphia Cream Cheese terrificly aromatic nose; quite frizzante sweet bright/vivid
strawberry soda pop/alpine strawberry/grapey slight PhiladelphiaCreamCheese/lactic slight earthy
wildly vivid/fragrant flavor; med.short intensely grapey/alpine strawberry/Nehi soda pop sweet
finish w/ no tannins; crazy/exotic/wild frivolous great drinking stuff; beautiful Roberto.
$19.00
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15. ElioAltare Dolcetto d'Alba (14%) 2004: Very dark/black color; intense/fragrant plummy/blackberry/
grapey loads of fruit slight dusty/earthy nose; soft/lush bit licorice rather plummy/grapey
slight dusty lightly tannic flavor; long very grapey/plummy/jammy loads of fruit finish w/ light
tannins; one of the best Dolcettos I've had; great drinking stuff. $16.00
________________________________________________________________________________
And yet another boring BloodyPulpit:
1. Uccellina Burson: Here's what Roberto has to say about #7:
Consorzio Il BagnaCavalo Burson Ravenna Etichetta Blu 2003, Emilia Romagna $16.99
This is only the second time that any bottlings of this ultra rare wine ever brought to
America (you demolished the first load last year!). They are made from an ancient native
variety called Longanesi which has grown wild in the pine forests of Romagna since pre-Roman
times until revived from obscurity ten years ago by Alberto Rusticali of Tenuta Uccellina.
Very dark in color with rich pomegranate and red plum fruit supporting a smokey, gamey,
spicy, bring on the food and fun attitude bursting out of the glass. 504 bottles for the
Western Hemisphere.
This wine comes from the far Eastern part of Emilia-Romagna, near the Adriatic. These two
Bursons were as different as night and day. The '02 had a very ripe/over-the-top character
that reminded me a lot of dry Recioto. The '03 was much more restrained, less overripe, and
far more interesting to me.
Is Longanesi the next great grape?? Nope....already way far too many varieties in Italy.
_________________
2. Same salamis, round two: For some reason, I like the Bertoli Fra'Mani much more than I did
Monday night. Rather garliky and quite tasty. I don't know who make the DiBruno Sweet Toscana,
but it's also quite delicious as well.
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3. Sweet/fizzy wines: I absolutely loved the last three wines. I've served the Riunite Lambrusco
in my wine classes often to demonstrate how bad wine can really be. Of course, no serious
wine geek would drink sweet/fizzy/red wine when you can drink Barolo or Chianti Classico. You
have to have SOME standards!!
My mind was changed 5-6 yrs ago when I ordered the charcuterie plate at Paul Bertoli's Oliveto
in Berkeley. It was suggested by the sommelier there that I try a glass of their Lambrusco
with the dish. I gave him this utterly disdainful look..."I ain't drinking NO LAMBRUSCO',
knowing that my taste was far beyond that junk. Jeeeezzz...the nerve of the guy. So he brought
me a glass of their new Barbolini Grasparossa di Castelvetro (an Oliver McCrum Import), gratis.
Whatta eye-opener that was. Now I done see'd the light and those wines are my choice w/ salty/
smokey cold cuts.
I liked these last three a bit better than the Barbolini I had then. They were much more
intensely grapey than the Barbolini that I last had a month ago, though that btl may have
sat around on the shelf several yrs. Serious Lambrusco doesn't just fly off the shelves; it's
very much a hand sell.
The Birbet is a genre that is made in the Roero from Brachetto grapes. This Ca'Rosso was the
first Birbet I've ever had and I was blown away by it.
These sweet/fizzy red wines are a genre I'd like to see pursued more in Calif. I think they
could do them very well there. Are you listening, Randall?? He's made a sparkling Freisa that
he called Cold Duck or some such that I really liked. But a ParzialmenteFermentato Zinfandel??
Ohhhh...I just tingle all over at that thought!! And then after they succeeded with that genre,
then they could give it a ton of new/toasty/Fr.oak and get the alcohol up to 16%....now we're
talking real wine!!!
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4. Brachetto & Freisa: Now here are two varieties that I'd like to see pursued a whole lot more in
Calif. I was first introduced the them by Darrell Corti in the late '70's when he brought in all
the Scarpa/Piedmonte wines and those were in that bunch. Wildly fragrant and perfumey. They,
and Marzimino and Aleatico, should be given a whole lot more attention. Of course, I wouldn't
want to be the Marketing guy for whoever would make them; they'd be a tough sell in this
Cab/Chard-ocentric world.
__________________
5. Altare Dolcetto: This was Larry's mystery wine. I correctly identified...errrr...guessed it to
be Dolcetto. He was incensed at Monday's tasting that I would deign to liken the Bonardas to
Dolcetto... so I sorta guessed he'd try to trip me up. He failed.
This was one of the best Dolcettos I've ever had. It far/far more fit the profile of Italian
Dolcetto that I've been told Dolcetto has than many of the ones I've had here in the USofA.
Really tasty stuff.
TomHill